TIMELESS FASHION: TARTAN AND PLAID

Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New

Fall/Winter 2020/2021 ready to wear collections

Fashion Trend Report by Nena Ivon, nenasnotes, Originally published exclusively for Randolph Street Market. Updated and edited post republished with permission of Sally Schwartz.

During the confinement for our Pandemic I have been pondering, along with others in the industry, the future of fashion, retail and, in particular, fashion shows. How will the industry pivot to be not only relevant but how to present fashion…virtually…in person…both or….! ?Many of the “big” names will sit out this week’s New York Fashion Week as well as the upcoming London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks. I’ll be glued to all sites to see what our creative minds have up their sleeves. Time for change, time for reinvention, time for major creativity in a time like no other. I can’t wait to see how technology will play into the scheme of things. In a world, (fashion), of self expression individuality and newness….what a once in a lifetime opportunity to make things exciting! I, for one, can not wait to see our new world through the eyes of the creative fashion powers that be! Stay tuned for my impressions of Spring 2021.

Now let’s talk about the durability of plaid as a classic pattern…one that we see year in and year out and always says Fall to me.

Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New

I asked, Jeffrey Banks, a true Renaissance Man…designer, lecturer, fashion historian, and esteemed author of several books, most recently NORELL: MASTER OF AMERICAN FASHION, the first monograph on the iconic designer, to share a paragraph on the pattern. I encourage you to get his book TARTAN: Romancing the Plaid, to further explore its fashion story.

“TARTAN is one of two perennial patterns that seemingly never goes out of Fashion. The other perennial is animal prints. They are both all-time classics. And although some seasons they are more dominate a theme than others they are never more than a season or two out of the limelight. Because tartan is classic, romantic, subversive, and even sometimes ironic, its appeal never fails to fascinate. And it is the one pattern that even print shy men seem to always embrace!” Jeffrey Banks.

Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New

Tartan is often misused for all plaid it is by definition, “A woolen cloth woven in one of several patterns of plaid, especially of a design associated with a particular Scottish clan.” There are over 4000 tartan plaids.

Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New

Of course, the first brand we think of is Burberry, established in 1879 by Thomas Burberry. They trench coat “Its name derived from the trenches where military personnel were stationed in WW1, the original Burberry trench coat was designed in 1912 by Thomas Burberry to keep officers protected against wind and rain.”

“Initially developed for the military, each feature on a trench coat has been specifically designed for a reason. The epaulettes were added to display the rank of the officers while the storm shield, found on the upper back, enabled water to run off the coat and keep the wearer dry. A pleat was also featured on the back which allowed for ease of movement when running or on horseback.”

*The distinctive plaid lining was added in 1920.

I’m sure, just as Levi Strauss would be in awe at how his denim, originally for workman’s overalls, has evolved into classic fashion, Thomas Burberry could not have predicted the International success a military coat would have!

No plaid, to my mind’s eye, is more recognized. It hasn’t changed until recently….let’s look at the traditional and some newer versions.

Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New
Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New
Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New
Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New

The Chicago flagship store on Michigan Avenue…..who knew, plaid architecture, brilliant marketing and a stunning addition to what is arguably the most diverse architectural city, Chicago, where modern architecture was born!

Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New

A book, of course…

Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New

From Alexander McQueen

Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New

Sarah Jessica Parker and Alexander McQueen wearing the official McQueen tartan at the Met’s Costume Institute gala for “Savage Beauty”.

Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New
Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New
Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New
Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New

Vivianne Westwood

Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New
Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New
Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New

Yves Saint Laurent Couture

Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New

Jean Paul Gaultier

Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New

Want more…

Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New
Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New
Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New
Tartan + Plaid Always Classic Always New

To me plaid is always “in” as an accent, as an accessory, or as a complete outfit. It can be a traditional tartan or a new version of the classic Burberry plaid. It can be whimsical, think McQueen and Westwood, or line the classic trench coat that knows no gender. This season try it with a bit of leopard and what the heck a dash of a floral print, the point be confident in dressing and most of all have fun with your wardrobe styling!!!!

All photos from Pinterest photo credits unknown.
*Burberry quote from a Harrods editorial.


COLLECTIONS: TARTANWARE PART 2

Photo found on Pinterest photo credit unknown.

A first for my blog and something I would love to continue….a reader, (and more importantly a long time personal friend) of nenasnotes sent me photos of her Tartanware Collection, which is amazing. I asked if I could share the photos along with her comments on the collection, here you go!

From Lawrie Weed…

“As my father was of Sottish heritage it was the emphasis to start the collection which is about 40 years old. Most items are related to sewing, thimbles, needle cases, bobbins, etc. I have 22 napkin holders all different tartans. Ralph Lauren started having tartenware for his stores and the prices escalated dramatically so the average collector was hard pressed to continue finding the rare and wonderful pieces. My favorite pieces are a photo album and an Hourglass.”

From Lawrie’s Collection
Another view which includes the stunning mirror on the door of the exquisite cupboard.

Lawrie, thank you SO much for sharing your very special Tartanware Collection for us to enjoy!

COLLECTIONS: TARTANWARE

A Tartanware Collection.

I’ve been fascinated with Tartanware for years. I think I first saw these interesting highly collectible pieces at an Armory antique show in New York many years ago. Then in decorative art books and shelter magazine articles. When thinking of this post I wanted to talk with a Tartan expert and that person was Jeffrey Banks, a true Renaissance Man with so much knowledge about so many lifestyle topics. If you follow my blog you have read my interview with Jeffrey as well as a review of his current brilliant monograph NORELL: Master of American Fashion. I also talked about his first book TARTAN: Romancing The Plaid in a Randolph Street Market blog post several years ago and one that I am reprinting this week in this blog. All of Jeffrey’s extraordinary books are must haves in your library.

Nena with Jeffrey Banks

“Tartanware, was the name given the ‘souvenirs of Scotland’ that were usually small wooden objects covered in miniature tartan paper and then covered with varnish used to publicize a company’s connection with Scotland. These delicate small objects included egg cups, sewing kits, obelisk thermometers and napkin rings. Though never intended to be Collectables, these treasures were, if you will, ‘Cracker Jack‘ prizes for those doing business with Scottish companies. Made chiefly by the Mauchlin Company in Scotland around the turn of the century, these Objects were popularized by the almost fanatic following of anything Scottish loved by Queen Victoria. Never really meant to last for long lengths of time these items are much prized today by collectors as they have become exceedingly rare to find in mint condition. The most prized (and indeed most rare) are the larger Tartanware items like trunks and small pieces of furniture.” Quote from Jeffrey Banks.

When speaking with Jeffrey last week I asked him about the first piece he collected for his now vast collection, he paused, thought about it and said “I think a napkin ring.” This beginning of a carefully curated collection has become quite extensive. Here is a photo of some of his collection and several other photos he shared with me for this post.

From Jeffrey Banks private collection.

The following photos Jeffrey shared with me, not in his collection.

Notice gold lettering…Jeffrey shared that each piece has the name of the Tartan in gold on each Mauchlin piece.
A rare chest.
The only book on Tartanware

Tartanware was produced in the Scottish town of Mauchline from the early 1800s to 1933. The prime company was William & Andrew Smith of Mauchlin, from 1821 onwards. In 1852, Prince Albert purchased Balmoral estate in the Scottish Highlands for Queen Victoria. The Queen had a passion for Tartan and visitors to Scotland wanted small Tartanware items that were easy to take home, and something the Queen might endorse. Many pieces were what we would call today “gifts with purchase” and used as marketing other products…as Jeffrey mentioned in his quote “like Cracker Jack prizes”. Originally, they were hand painted, in 1853, new machines were invented to speed up the manufacturing process. Tartan designs were applied to paper and then glued to small everyday objects. The items were heavily varnished giving them longevity, thankfully for today’s collectors. In 1933 production of Tartanware came to an end after a fire destroyed the printing machinery.

The following are images I have collected, over time, found on Pinterest photo credits unknown. Some individual pieces and some decorating ideas….enjoy!

Sewing accessories
An example in tin.
Do you think there are any Royal signatures inside????
More sewing pieces
Modern piece from Ralph Lauren who has done entire home and ready to wear collections in tartan.
Just for fun!
Everything is collectible! I threw this in for a giggle!

COLLECTIONS: LOVER’S EYE JEWELRY

Lover’s Eye Jewelry

I’ve been fascinated by Lover’s Eye jewelry ever since I saw a collection at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum many years ago. And what better time to do a post on this unique short lived Georgian jewelry craze (1790-1820) than now when we are masked and can only see our loved ones, actually everyone’s, eyes! Perhaps a revival is in order, we all can use a bit of romance in our lives!

From the V&A collection

The story has a romantic beginning and takes us to the court of the future King George IV of England, then the Prince of Wales, and his secret lover, Maria Fitzherbert.

George IV
Maria Fitzherbert

Since Mrs. Fitzherbert was divorced it would prove difficult for them to be married. After many proposals, George sent her a locket containing a portrait of his eye, along with the note: “P.S. I send you a parcel … and I send you at the same time an Eye, if you have not totally forgot the whole countenance. I think the likeness will strike you.”

She replied to the sent image with a portrait of her own eye. They were married in a secret ceremony.

Most of the miniatures are painted in watercolor on ivory or gouache on card, the miniatures were set in pins, rings, and lockets for women and various containers such as snuff boxes or stick pins for men. Usually a decorative border of burnished or engraved gold, gems or pearls surround the portrait and often a hair compartment was included to hold a loved one’s hair. Obviously very intimate and meant for the recipient “eyes” only, they were small and to be concealed.

A charming portrait holding a portrait!

Here are some of my favorite finds….you can go to my Pinterest Board to see the many images I have collected pin.it/qnUPiGH

My most favorite.

It is said that if the miniature portrait was surrounded in pearls the subject was deceased.

From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Collections early 19th century.
From the V&A Collections early 19th century

A couple of books…..

Continue reading

ALWAYS IN FASHION: GLOVES

I have been thinking about this post for quite awhile and was excited to see such an abundance of gloves in the Spring 2020 Haute Couture Collections. I particularly love the play of color.Gloves… Always Classic, Always New

Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market

Historical gloves…

Gloves Randolph Street Market

Tudor glove…

Gloves Randolph Street Market

From 1600’s V & A collection

18th Century gloves…

Gloves Randolph Street Market

Wooden glove molds are very collectible…perhaps you will find one at Randolph Street Market could be a fun collection.

Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market

When I started my career in retail all ladies wore hats and gloves and, I must admit, I still like the finished look a glove gives to an outfit. Of course, in Chicago, we need them for warmth and why not have a fun color, pattern, embellishment or a fingerless pair to allow for texting!

Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market

The fashionable ladies of Downton Abbey…

Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market

Elsa Schiaparelli’s whimsical surreal gloves, way too much fun, don’t you agree!

Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market

And inspired by Schiaparelli, designed by Salvador Dali and photographed by Cecil Beaton for Vogue

Gloves Randolph Street Market

Glove purses by Hannah Lamb

Gloves Randolph Street Market

Or perhaps a hat or two…

Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market

From the brilliant Rei Kawakubo for Comme Des Garçons

Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market

Or…

Gloves Randolph Street Market

Or make your own…

Gloves Randolph Street Market

Let’s travel to the 1970’s and, the doyenne of American Fashion, Bonnie Cashin’s revolutionary gloves…

“It was Cashin’s sixth decade in design. As she entered the 1970s, and her seventies, Cashin was something of a grande dame and the last of an old guard. Referred to as the country’s “longest blooming perennial designer,” … Cashin continued to be a top choice for companies in need of a revitalized image. The plea from Crescendoe-Superb, then the country’s oldest-running glove manufacturer still operated by its founding family, was among the most memorable for its lack of pretense. “We think our gloves are very bad and corny,” wrote the company’s owner, asking Cashin, “would you undertake designing your beautiful concept of what these … [designs] should look like, instead of our bad ones?” When the collection launched in 1972, the company wrote of her designs in twenty-two-inch-long lime suede (for layering as sleeves under ponchos) and grommet-knuckled kidskin (for fending off a purse snatcher), “these are the most expensive and beautiful line of gloves ever designed.”

Copy and following three photos courtesy of my friend, Dr. Stephanie Lake, Owner, The Bonnie Cashin Archive.

Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market

Also from the Bonnie Cashin Archives and in Bonnie’s own handwriting, courtesy of Dr. Stephanie Lake.

Gloves Randolph Street Market

Michael Jackson’s iconic glove

Gloves Randolph Street Market

Karl Lagerfeld in signature mitts…

Gloves Randolph Street Market

Two of the most iconic gloves on film on two super stars of the silver screen…


Rita Hayward’s “strip tease” in Gilda! Fabulous….

Gloves Randolph Street Market

And the delicious Marilyn Monroe performing “Diamonds Are A Girl’s Best Friend” in Gentlemen Prefer Blonds!

Gloves Randolph Street Market

And on the covers of magazines…

Gloves Randolph Street Market

A “pair” of books on gloves…

Gloves Randolph Street Market
Gloves Randolph Street Market

And a “bouquet” of gloves…

Gloves Randolph Street Market

All photos, unless otherwise noted, from Pinterest photo credits unknown. Reprinted with permission from Randolph Street Market Blog, January 2020. FASHION TREND REPORT EXCLUSIVELY FOR RANDOLPH STREET MARKET BY NENA IVON, nenasnotes