COLLECTIONS: INSECTS PART 2

imageWSome wonderful prints, dated 1809, from Paper Patty’s booth at Randolph Street Market http://www.randolphstreetmarket.com

I ended last weeks posting with bees and am moving on today but my friend, Gloria Groom, (if you didn’t read Gloria’s profile that I did several months ago, please do so and be sure to see the Gauguin: Artist as Alchemist exhibition through September 10th at The Art Insitute http://www.artic.edu sooner rather than later!) called my attention to this glorious paperweight from The Art Institute of Chicago’s collection…isn’t it amazing.  You know me and books so I am including a book on Paul J. Stankard’s extraordinary contemporary creations.

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imageIs this a fly or a bee, I’ll let you be the judge.  It is embroidered on a Schiaparelli Haute Couture dress.  Stunningly beautiful.

imageA botanical of beetles.

imageI posted several photos of the beetle wing embroidered gowns last week…here is a close up of the delicate work.

imageIsn’t this the most beautiful insect pin you have ever seen (there is another one further along in this post) it is by Faberge and is from a dear friend’s jewelry collection.  Photo courtesy of the owner,

imageI do hope none of us encounter any creepy crawlies this size…a bit of English humor.

imageA jeweled beetle minaudiere from Judith Leiber http://www.judithleiber.com

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Here a scarab mounted in stunning fashion from Stephanie Lake’s talented hands, http://www.stephanielakedesign.com.  Photo courtesy of Stephanie Lake

imageThe cochineal insect gives us the natural dye, carmine, and is used for fabrics and in our red cosmetic products most particularly lipstick. Who knew!!!!

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imageNot the actual beetle but I thought an interesting illustration.

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imageA couple of photos on dragonflies…I have always been fascinated with them and you don’t see them too often.  This marcasite and enamel pin from Carrie’s Fabulous and Funky booth at the Randolph Street Market.  My photograph.

imageA beaded pillbox with a three-dimensional dragonfly from Judith Leiber.

image A miniature vase by Jay Strongwater  http://www.jaystrongwater.com  from my signed collection.  We did so many events with this creative genius at Saks Fifth Avenue Chicago.  You can be sure there will be a post on him in the near future!

imageThe second pin from my friend’s jewelry collection….a Faberge spider, this will cure anyone’s fear of the little creatures, don’t you agree!  Photo courtesy of the owner.

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imageInsects captured in amber.

imageI love this watercolor of insects, do you agree?

imageThe back of a jacket by Gucci.  Love it!!!!

ALL PHOTOS UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED ARE FROM PINTEREST PHOTO CREDIT UNKNOWN.

I have to do a recipe using honey….there are so many suggestions, you can most certainly add honey to your barbecue sauce for the Fourth of July, or perhaps top your peanut butter sandwich with it (one of my favorite ways to eat peanut butter) or add to your avocado toast, yum yum…I have chosen to give you a recipe for baked brie that you can serve year-round.  Enjoy.

BAKE BRIE WITH HONEY AND ALMONDS

Ingredients

  • 1 wedge of brie, about 12 ounces
  • 1/4 cup of honey
  • 1/4 cup toasted sliced almonds
  • 1 large French baguette

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place brie in a baking dish. Drizzle with honey and sprinkle With toasted almonds. Bake for 10 minutes. Serve with thick slices of French bread.

 

 

WEDNESDAY MUSINGS: BAKELITE AT RANDOLPH STREET MARKET

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A treasure trove of Bakelite jewelry including a couple of the coveted cherry pins found in Carrie’s Fabulous to Funky booth at the Randolph Street Market (RSM) http://www.randolphstreetmarket.com.

In today’s post, I am concentrating on Bakelite jewelry from a couple of RSM‘s vendors along with my pieces.  But as usual, I like to give you a bit of the history behind my features and let you explore more on your own.  By now, I am sure you know I adore research and I love to share my finds with you, my readers.

Bakelite really happened by accident and was introduced in 1907. It was the first synthetic thermosetting plastic ever produced.  It is a hardened plastic that is used for many, many objects. You can find lots of articles on Bakelite by doing your GOOGLE search, one such search will take you to http://www.thespruce.com and tell you how to identify authentic Bakelite.  A fascinating article.

Another article I found absorbing was on Dr. Leo H. Baekland, http://www.elvenkrafte.com, it gives you everything you would ever want to know about the subject which is totally fascinating.  The Time cover featuring Dr. Baekland is from that site.

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Check YouTube for a trailer of All Things Bakelite  https://youtu.be/xIrGqiFsa-4

imageA Bakelite phone, you can find something similar at RSM.  I particularly like this in ivory but, of course, you might prefer the more familiar black version! Pinterest photo credit unknown.

imageI am crazy about this Art Deco radio…isn’t it a stunner!  Again, you will find vintage radios at the monthly RSM, let me know if one like this hits your eye, I want it!!!! Pinterest photo credit unknown.

imageYou know how much I adore anything green….so this desk lamp immediately appealed to me, a bit too modern for my taste, but then again, maybe not!  Pinterest photo credit unknown.

imageOr perhaps for your pool table, really cool. Pinterest photo credit unknown.

imageMore pieces from Carrie’s booth, I choose some of the butterscotch pins and bangles along with a couple of adorable napkin rings, love them!  I placed them on one of Carrie’s vintage clothing pieces…this a crazy quilt hostess gown.

imageimageA close up of a couple of the pins.

 

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A fantastic collection of bangles in J&M Antiques booth across the aisle from Carrie’s booth in the Ballroom of Plumbers Hall at Randolph Street Market. There are other vendors at RSM who carry Bakelite jewelry and objects, be sure to stroll through all the aisles both outside and inside and find all manner of treasures!  The next RSM is Saturday and Sunday, July 29 and 30.

imageMy collection of pins all of which I got from RSM over the years, they were made by the same vendor using buttons and broken pieces…I wear them all the time and get huge compliments.  The vendor moved to New York, pity for us, she had really great pieces.

imageI wear these the most (I am particularly fond of the one with the mother of pearl inserts) and I have placed them on one of my crazy quilt pieces.

imageThis one I place on the lapel of a purple looped mohair Oscar de la Renta jacket, it matches perfectly!

imageI think this is quite a unique piece with its braided center and the color combination struck me, had to have it!

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 Looks interesting.  Pinterest photo credit unknown

All photos were taken by Nena unless otherwise noted.

 

 

 

 

BOOKS BOOKS BOOKS: MURDER IN SAINT-GERMAIN

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I discovered Cara Black’s wonderful mystery series set in Paris when I attended a Costume Society of America Symposium held in Kansas City several years ago.  By now you know I am a huge fan of Independent Bookstores and seek them everywhere I go.  My chums and I were on an outing before presentations and happened upon Rainy Day Books http://www.Newsletter@RainyDayBooks.com just outside Kansas City.  While browsing I was attracted to the cover, yes, I do that!  I saw that the book was set in Paris, I usually only do English mysteries, but thought why not start something new.  I can tell you I was so glad I did.  I have read all Cara Black’s work pretty much in order.  Must you do that, not really, but I do think we have discussed starting a series with the first book to get the “lay of the land” so to speak. I especially recommend that principle with the Aimée Leduc series. Each book (and it’s title) takes place in a  separate Paris Arrondissement.  The location sets the scene but the books travel across Paris taking our heroine into many neighborhoods some a bit seedy and some quite swank!

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Aimée runs her own computer security company, is very attractive and quite chic, wearing designer clothes, shoes, bags, etc. mostly from vintage stores or the Paris flea markets as well as wearing the newest make-up trends.  She rides a vintage Vespa and is a master of disguise because, you see, she is a private investigator as well…of course she is!  She is also a feminist, her mother left when she was quite young and we find her “mysterious” disappearance unfold through the series.  Aimée’s father was with the police and was killed on duty…this not only haunts her but we learn more about it in each book. She has been raised by her godfather, Morbier, also a policeman.  She has major connections with the police along with other important people she can call upon to assist her.  Her best friend, Martine, and her business partner, René are always included sometimes prominently sometimes not so much but always there.  Of course there are love interests, she does seem to be attracted to “bad boys”, but the stories, in my opinion, are really about the City…how it moves, how it thrives, how it goes about its day to day business and Ms. Black isn’t afraid to get down and dirty with our protagonist, we go into the sewers, the underground tunnels, through parks, cafés, etc….they are truly tutorials on this exciting place called Paris!

Now a little about the newest addition to the series which as the title suggests revolves around Saint-Germain.  Aimée is working on a computer security project for the École des Beaux-Arts while there she is asked to look into another matter that involves blackmail.  In addition, an old friend comes to her with a request to find someone, basically a terrorist, who is suppose to be dead but her friend says she has seen in Paris.  As usual it is filled with twists and turns, people you think Aimée can trust (can she!!!) a body here and there, escapes over roof tops, disguises, escapes through underground tunnels…time for many changes of outfits, an espresso or two, a tryst or two and certainly a narrow escape or two!!!  There are new characters, as always, but a couple who have been added over the last couple of books…I don’t wait to spoil the story for you if you are a first time reader so I won’t.

Ms. Black usually gives us a new volume each year as do my other favorite mystery writers, Louise Penny, Charles Finch, Tasha Alexander, Rhys Bowen and Charles Todd among others.  I usually wait a bit to read the newest addition from each because a year seems a long time to wait for the next adventure…..don’t you agree!!!!

TECHNOLOGY!!!!!!!

Hi, I wanted to let you know why there weren’t any posts last week…all my technology (other than phone, thank heavens!!!) was non-existent. Nothing, and I mean nothing was working…..I can’t even begin to tell you how many hours I have spent getting this up and running again.  Obviosuly, I realize how dependent we all are on technology, but it was devastating, to say the least.   I am working on this week’s posts and hope to be up and running again tomorrow with my usual Tuesday book review.   I appreciate your patience.

In the meantime, here is a preview photo of Thursday’s Collections post, Insects Part 2.image

 BOOKS BOOKS BOOKS: ISADORA

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I have a confession to make, I am not doing a review on this book today.  Why, you ask…well, I started reading it with the intention of whizzing right through it…not the case.  It is an extremely well written, in-depth study of a very complex woman, Isadora Duncan.  It will take more than a day or even two to really absorb its content.  If you want to read along with me, you can do that otherwise give me a bit of a break to really get into it and I will give you my opinion in a week or so.

I might let you know that I am not a fan of modern dance, not at all.  It just isn’t my thing, but learning about such an independent woman during the early 20th Century is a true education.  I am finding so much of what I am reading lately talks about independent women and how they fought to be recognized.  It makes fascinating reading. I am, most certainly, well aware of the restrictions on women of that time, but am finding more and more information and therefore, insight into their journeys.  Perhaps a bit easier when in the Arts, but was it really!!??  As you already know, I adore novels written about “real people” using fact and incorporating them into to fiction…one can only speculate which is which.

Thank you for baring with me this week on my book post!

PROFILE: ME!!!

imageThe sketch is for some anniversary and by a dear friend……..

I hope you don’t think I am being very self-centered in profiling myself, I thought it would be a fun exercise to answer my own questionnaire.  You already know so much about me, my likes, my obsessions, highlights of my career, etc. but perhaps, just perhaps, I can give you a bit more insight into Nena!

Here goes….

WHEN WAS YOUR FIRST IMPRESSION OF YOUR TALENT AND HOW DID THAT PASSION BRING YOU TO WHERE YOU ARE NOW:

I don’t know that I would call my career talent so let’s say when did I realize what I wanted to do…I always knew I wanted to be in “fashion” I just didn’t know what part of it.  Did I want to model, be a designer, be in public relations, advertising, or what!!!???  I had been on many “high school” boards during school both downtown and in Evanston.  That intensified my interest.  Being the daughter of a commercial artist I was very familiar with advertising.  I had begun sewing as soon as I could hold a needle (Mom gave me a beautiful sterling silver thimble with cloisonne on it, I could never use it, can’t stand the sound of the needle hitting the metal of the thimble!) Evanston Township High School offered a dress design course in the art department, (the head of the department was a dress designer at heart) my Junior Year.  I loved the class and did so well I was asked if I wanted to take it again for my Senior Year and do what ever I liked…I did!  I never modeled, but did teach modeling at a local “charm” school while I was in high school…loved doing that.  One day, when I was a Senior in high school I put on my hat and gloves (yes, you heard that correctly) got on the bus and went downtown.  For some unknown reason I felt one needed to know retail before you could do anything else in the business, after all that is where the product ends.  We usually shopped at Marshall Field’s and Saks Fifth Avenue, the first stop on the bus route downtown was Saks.  I got off at Erie and Michigan and went to the Personnel Office (AKA Human Resources), interviewed (lied about my age) and got the job selling in “Debutante Sportswear”…what I thought would be a summer job became a career!  By the way, during that year I found I was a very good sales person, no magic formula just treat people the way you want to be treated and keep up with the trends.  The working title of the book is “A Hell of a Long Summer Job!”  Luck, being in the right place at the right time, the Personnel Director believing in me….who will ever know.  I have taught in all the local fashion schools and have been at Columbia College Chicago for many years, I love to teach and see my students grow and learn more about an industry that I am passionate about  I am still doing lectures, an occasion fashion show and, my new passion, NENASNOTES.

WHEN DID YOU KNOW YOU HAD MADE IT:

When I got the job in the Fashion Office and each and every day for the 53 years, where did they go….I knew that it was, in my opinion, a perfect fit.  I always thought I had the perfect job with the best retailer in the world, I still feel that way. I wanted to be one of one and not one of thousands in New York or elsewhere.  The job grew through the years and, of course, changed not only with fashion but with technology.  I happen to love to work with figures as well as knowing what garments to show to each audience, and adding technology just enhanced the job.  In retail you must be very, very open to change.

imageFashion Group International Chicago Gala, given in my honor, in the Ballroom at the Chicago Hilton (one of the most glamorous and magnificent rooms anywhere!!!!) My wonderful models and I didn’t have to dress them!!!  I have profiled 8 of them…let’s hope I can get more to participate, they all have such wonderful stories to tell. Photo courtesy of the Nena Ivon Archives at Columbia College Chicago.

WHAT WOULD HAVE BEEN YOUR ALTERNATE CHOICE AS A CAREER….WAS THERE ONE?

I firmly believe you need to love what you do you or you will be miserable.  Having said that, I have always wanted to have a independent bookstore/tearoom/needlepoint shop or a bed and breakfast, but instead I am a blogger, who knew!

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE MOVIES, BOOKS, THEATER (IN ORDER OF PREFERENCE) TYPE OF MUSIC

Movies: I am particularly found of Musicals, Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers films in particular, all the 1940’s musicals and, of course, My Fair Lady and Gigi. love them. Recently found LaLa Land charming. I adore Film Noir and The Thin Man series. My most favorite film is Gone With The Wind, in my opinion, everyone was brilliantly and perfectly cast.  Love all the original Disney films, especially Fantasia.  Of course, any fashion documentary or films based on fashion personalities or fashion in general…what could ever top the original 1939, The Women.  Obviously, I could go on and on and on……I do love a good movie.

Books: I devour books, always have.  I couldn’t take gym in school so I lived in my school library.  The Evanston Public School system has amazing schools not only in their teaching but in their buildings.  My grammar school, Oakton, had incredible mosaic tiles (I’m sure they still do, note to self must do a visit!) and it was not only a place that set all of us on the right track with reading, writing and arithmetic…but also with art….and in my case an even greater love of books.  My home was filled with books and I was read to from birth and then read to myself as soon as I could.  Hard to choose one book…Let me mention these authors rather than one book….not in any order: Shakespeare, Tennessee Williams, Agatha Christie, Virginia Wolff.  Current authors, Louise Penny, Charles Finch, Charles Todd, Cara Black (a review on her new book next week!).  Genres: most English Mysteries (don’t like thrillers, horror or fantasy), novels based on historical figures (concentrating on artists and authors) and, of course, fashion books….it seems to be my goal to own every fashion book printed (I have around 1000 now!)

Theater: 1. Musical Theater 2. Legitimate Theater 3. Ballet 4. Opera 5. Symphony

Type of Music: A very long list (basically the only types of music I’m really not into are Hip Hop, Rap and Country) Here goes….Frank Sinatra, Broadway cast albums, Stanley Paul and his Orchestra (or just him playing piano!), old time Rock and Roll, Simply Red, Adele, Bobby Short, Ella Fitzgerald, Billie Holiday, anything Gershwin, Porter, The American Songbook, Jazz, Chopin, Mozart, Strauss, etc. etc etc.

YOUR HOME:  Very eclectic, a mix of antiques, Randolph Street Market finds, http://www.randolphtreetmarket.com, lots of art, needlepoint (mine), layers of textiles (in particular, paisley shawls and crazy quilts) and lots and lots of lily of the valley pieces! And, of course, stacks and stacks of books. I guess we could call it Boho!  I have shown you many of my collections more to come.

RESTAURANTS:  Everest would be #1 without question, I have never had anything less than a spectacular meal there and Chef Joho has done many special occasion dinners for me! Les Nomades, RL, Deca at the Ritz Carlton, Shanghai Terrace at the Peninsula, Sophie’s at Saks, The Dearborn, Shaw’s, RM Champagne Salon, Kiki’s, Pelago, Uncle Julio’s and Su Casa, RH Three Arts Club Cafe, I’m very fond of Alpana Singh’s restaurants, just about any steakhouse in the City and anywhere I can get a good hamburger and, of course, any Lettuce Entertain You restaurant, Rich Melman is a genius!  I’m a foodie, also am fond of a great glass (or two) of wine and I love the wonderful variety we have, the food is, of course, important but the atmosphere and who you are with are primary.  Love, love, love all the roof “top” terraces we now have, they are amazing.  In addition, all our wonderful private clubs.

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE PLACES THAT YOU HAVE TRAVELED AND WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO:

I spent many vacations in New York and I adore it to this day…I am an Urbanite and love, love, love big cities, including my home town of Chicago, you do realize that Chicago has CHIC in it! Next would be London and the English Countryside.  Then Paris, I have only been once so can’t really talk about it as much as I would like.  I adore New Orleans, would have, in another life lived there.  Stratford, Ontario Canada, not only for it’s theater but for it’s atmosphere and it’s fabulous restaurants, again I would live there in a minute.  I was fortunate to travel to Russia several years ago and it was a major epiphany…Moscow in particular, magnificent…The Hermitage in Saint Petersburg wasn’t bad either!!!  Where would I like to go…Marrakesh, Cairo, India and China, back to Paris and England.  I do love a cruise, I would sail on the Queen Mary II any day of the week.  A cruise to South America or the Mediterranean would be nice, any offers!!!!???? Oh, I almost forgot, The Orient Express. I had better pack my bags…..

FAVORITE CHICAGO STREET ART:  Oh my, yet another toughie…I’m going to “cop” out and say our architecture, we are, after all, the birth place of modern architecture.  Aren’t we lucky to have ALL the magnificent pieces not only outside but inside public and private buildings.  I will be doing many posts on our street art.

WHO WOULD YOU HAVE AT YOUR FANTASY DINNER PARTY AND WHAT WOULD YOU SERVE…

I am going to take “author’s” license and do a dinner party of 20 (not the 10 to 12 I have allotted my other Profiles to have!) at one long “King” table in the Chicago Rooms at the Chicago History Museum http://www.chicagohistory.org and change seats between the second and third course, not the heads of the table but the two sides…there will be a seating plan, could be fun…and then for after dinner with demi-tasse, cordials and sweets we will all move into another room and be at 5 tables of 4, also seated and again with different people than for dinner, for more intimate conversations.  Stanley Paul and his Orchestra will play only my favorite standards and Frank Sinatra will entertain us with a few songs!  Perhaps we can get Coco, Fred, Cole and Stephen to join in!!!  Heaven.

The Guest List (in alphabetical order):

Fred Astaire

Cecil Beaton

Gabrielle Chanel

Christian Dior

Carl Faberge

Lucile Duff Gordon

Christian Lacroix

Française Lasage

Norman Norell

Irving Penn

Paul Poiret

Cole Porter

Stephen Sondheim

James Tissot

Diana Vreeland

Vita Sackville-West

Else de Wolff

Virginia Wolff

My Father (at one end of the table)

Me (at the other end of the table)

My favorite caterer would supervise the dinner, with Ruthie, my Mother, overseeing all details, I think Flora Danica as the china, why not (both would prefer being “off stage” and they would join us for the “after-party”)…the menu would be :

Cristal champagne before, during and after!!!!!

Cold beef consomme topped with sour cream and chives

Cold poached lobster

(Everyone changes seats here with another glass of champagne)

Choice of Beef Wellington (my recipe) or Salmon en Croute with seasonal vegetables

Micro greens with Tom Mantel’s secret vinaigrette salad dressing

Baked Alaska (my recipe)

HOW DO YOU WANT TO BE REMEMBERED:  Wow, that is a very difficult question…to answer and not sound full of oneself…I guess a person who used her career producing fashion shows, special events, chairing galas and being president of many boards, to not only raise substantial funding for many, many organizations, but more importantly to raise awareness of those causes.

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Some of the world renowned designers who came to the benefit of the Saks Fifth Avenue Chicago Place opening September 1990.  The black tie event benefited five charities, Beverly Blettner, seated behind Bob Mackie. was the over-all chair of the event.  Beverly and I worked on numerous events together.  The designers from left to right: Adolfo, Carolina Herrera, Pauline Trigere and Bob Mackie, all of whom I worked with on numerous events.  I have profiled Pauline, I will do in depth Fashion Flashbacks on the others in coming weeks. Photo courtesy of the Nena Ivon Archives at Columbia College Chicago.

FASHION FLASHBACK: ANNE KLEIN AND THE EVOLUTION OF A BRAND

imageAnne Klein in her studio with her inspiration board, sketches and fabric swatches. She along with Bonnie Cashin, Anne Fogarty and Claire McCardell  were the creators of “American Designer Sportswear”.  I must admit I have always found that description to be ludicrous, they were spectacular visionaries why tag them with the sportswear title.  Yes, they did separates but so much more…just as Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren did all considered Designer Sportswear designers….oh well!  I was fortunate to work with three of the four, McCardell died right after I started my career at Saks Fifth Avenue. This press folder photo is in the Nena Ivon Archives at Columbia College Chicago.

imageAnne Klein with her first husband, Ben Klein, formed Junior Sophisticates from 1948-1960.  I loved Junior Sophisticates and wore many of the pieces.  This photo typical of the time, could easily be an Anne Fogarty with it’s belted waist and full skirt, I wore her garments in high school and when I started working.  The ad from Pinterest photo credit unknown.

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Anne formed Anne Klein and Company in 1968 with her second husband,  Chip Rubenstein, the lion logo was immediately identified with the brand. In 1970 Saks Fifth Avenue, New York launched the Anne Klein Corner, it was the first designer in-store “boutique”. Anne received many awards throughout her career and was recognized as the epitome of designer sportswear. At one point in time Saks Fifth Avenue did a series of needlepoint kits commissioned from designers, I needlepointed (a full post on my needlepoint craze, I have done hundreds of pieces, at some point in time….no pun intended!!!!) the Anne Klein logo as a gift along with one from Emilio Pucci, and if memory serves me, Bill Blass. Photo Pinterest photo credit unknown.

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For the Versailles show in 1973, organized by the public relations genius, Eleanor Lampert,  Anne was the only female American Designer to show alongside Bill Blass, Oscar de la Renta, Halston and Stephen Burrows. The five Americans were showing with five Parisian designers, who showed first in a very formal staged production, while quite beautiful they didn’t compare to the modernity of the Americans who did a very quick presentation complete with jazz, twirling models, many African-American  models who went on to become super stars, and Liza Minelli!  They brought the house down and got a standing ovation and cheers from the jaded crowd.  American fashion came into its own that night and has never looked back!  For more on this show read The Battle of Versailles and see the film, Versailles ’73.  Unfortunately, not much footage is available and what there is is really not top quality, however, the film is fantastically done, you will really enjoy it if you haven’t seen it and if you have give it another look. Photo Pinterest photo credit unknown.

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imageThe Anne Klein medallion on the New York Fashion Walk of Fame.

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Louis Dell’Olio and Donna Karan were classmates at Parson’s School of Design and graduated in 1973 and went to work for Anne Klein.  I have had this press photo for years…so glad to finally share it.  It is in the Nena Ivon Archives at Columbia College Chicago.

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When Anne Klein died from breast cancer in 1974, her assistants, Donna Karan and Louis Dell’Olio became the designers from 1974-1985.  They came to Saks Chicago and we did a formal show in the Store.  What fun that was. Several years later, when Donna had her own collection she was making a personal appearance at I. Magnin, they had a store on Michigan Avenue and Pearson (where TopShop  and Uniqlo are now) and were doing a formal show on the street between Michigan Avenue and Rush Street (what is the name of that Street!!!???) on the west side of The Water Tower.  This one block street was closed and chairs were set up in the street without a tent.  I rarely went to other stores shows, unless invited, I thought they would think I was “spying” on them.  Well, I decided to go to this one and sat in the back row.  Donna commentated the presentation and at the end walked the runway (the street), as is usual for a designer at the finale…she came to the end where I was, glanced at me walked about half way or so back toward the Store, came back to me, gave me a hug and said “I know you, you are with Saks…and your shows are wonderful!”  So much for trying to be incognito!!!  The next time she came to Chicago was to open the Barney’s New York store in it’s original location on Oak Street (Hermes now) and she arrived on a motorcycle which drove her into the Store, it was a blast and so was Donna.  I did not have the pleasure of doing a formal show with a personal appearance with her but did do several formal shows with her collections over the years.

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Donna leaves Anne Klein for her signature line, the rest of that story is fashion history.  The foundation to the Donna Karan brilliant 5 Easy Pieces, the bodysuit!

imageThe orginal “cold shoulder” dress! We see shoulders everywhere now, revolutionary at the time.

imageDonna has always been her own best model.  I so miss her basic 5 Easy Pieces, she had the look down for the professional woman, not only professional but rather sexy and very assured giving the wearer a power that a “power suit” couldn’t.  Her talent is sorely missed but we can still get her brilliance with Urban Zen. Above photos are from Pinterest photo credit unknown.

imageDonna’s plaque on New York’s Fashion Walk of Fame.

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A very blond Nena with Louis Dell’Olio, Anne Klein desinger from 1985-1993.  Louis, while at Parsons apprenticed with the genius, Norman Norell (as you know one of my idols!) during a summer break and won the Norman Norell Scholarship. Saks did several personal appearances with Louis all at formal fashion shows and, as usual, benefits for local charities.  One I fondly remember was held in Stanley Field Hall at the Field Museum of Natural History.  I love using staircases for fashion shows  (my Corporate Office would always ask me if I only did shows on stiarways, my answer “Whenever possible!”) My production guru, Deb Gohr of Ravenswood Studios, was a genius in fulfilling my staging vision for all our shows.  This one used the double staircase at the South end of the Museum lobby (can you believe I can’t find a photo, in my files or on line!!!) I wanted the runway to come off the stairs and be seamless, and Deb did this perfectly. It was flawless at least up to a point….(I think this was one of the first shows Deb and I did together, we are still staging shows!!!!). I was only using the staircase to begin the show with the models coming down, in tandum, on each side.  That worked well.  The rest of the show they entered from each side of the runway, not a problem and then I wanted several to appear at the top of the staircase and walk down the stairs for the finale.  All good so far, I put those few models in their gowns on the elevator, I waited to cue my assistant who was at the next floor of the Museum next to the Hall of Gems. Nothing happened for what seemed like an eternity, the elevator had gotten stuck, after the brief pause out they came, very dramatically (think Audrey Hepburn in Funny Face in her red gown in front of the Winged Venus on the stairs of the Louvre and you get the picture!)  All was saved and actually made a much more exciting finale…everyone thought it was planned!!!!  I have now revealed a long kept not so secret secret!

In the above photo, I am wearing a signature look of Louis, one color combination in three textures and patterns.  This outfit is chocolate brown and cream, the fitted jacket is a silk tweed, the sweater a silk knit and the pencil skirt, wrapped to one side, in another tweed a combination of silk and wool.  I wore it for many years and adored both the man and his esthetic! Photo courtesy of the Nena Ivon archives at Columbia College Chicago.

imageA watercolor that Louis did for the cover of an invitation for a benefit show we did at China Club.  The finale was red gowns.  It was stunning and perfect in a club atomsphere (that was when we dressed to go out!!!!)  The night before we dined with Oprah Winfrey, who was beginning her Chicago career, a friend and client of Louis.  The last time I worked with Louis was with his glorious fur collection.  I miss his talent and being able to showcase his expertise.  This watercolor is in the Nena Ivon Archives at Columbia College Chicago.

imageA typical look by Louis Dell’Olio.  Pinterest photo credit unknown.

imageLouis always liked to do the color head to toe…here you see the hose and shoes, (he often included gloves and fabulous jewelry), all Anne Klein and Company, matching the skirt, the jacket in a contrasting red, a Dell’Olio signature. Pinterest photo credit unknown.

THE shows you always wanted to see in addition to Designer Shows were the Designer Sportswear Shows, Louis Dell’Olio for Anne Klein, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren.  Each spectacular and each with its own flair and each standing room only…those were the days, my friends!

imageRichard Tyler 1993-1994 became the designer for Anne Klein after Louis left (!!).  He came from a very structured, almost men’s tailoring background.  His garments were magnificently constructed, the Collection, we featured with his personal appearance at Saks Fifth Avenue, Chicago, was all black with a bit of white (you can see the white on my shirt, the black suit is also from the collection, and his t-shirt) totally different from the color of Louis’ era. He came with his wife and new baby and was a joy to work with, very quiet almost shy in nature and a true craftsman. Photo courtesy of the Nena Ivon Archives at Columbia College Chicago.

imageFrom the Richard Tyler for Anne Klein and Company.  Pinterest photo credit unknown.

imageThe Richard Tyler stint at AK was short lived and he was followed by Patrick Robinson, 1994-1996.  I adored working with Patrick a true talent and a total gentleman with great style. Photo courtesy of the Nena Ivon Archives at Columbia College Chicago. Since I am only discussing the designers I worked with I will only mention the designers who followed in quick succession they were 1998 Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco, 2007 Isabell Toledo

imageOne of my favorite designers, Charles Nolan, 2001-2003, left to go into politics (you heard that correctly!!!!) and returned with his own charming and very salable signature line.  He died much too young in 2011, a major loss to all of us.  This picture was taken at a Misericordia Heart of Mercy benefit show.  Charles made two personal appearances for the orgaization and showed his delightful signature collections. I’m wearing a piece from his collection and the fabulous pearl necklace is from his accessories collection, I also have a couple pairs of his shoes (where are they!!!???) also fun. Photo courtesy of the Nena Ivon Archives at Columbia College Chicago.

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Charles Nolan for Anne Klein, Pinterest photo credits unknown.

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The current creative director, Sharon Lombardo, will she turn the brand back to where it should be….let’s hope so, I for one miss the Anne Klein of yore.  Photo from Pinterest photo credit unknown.

How about a couple of recipes from Donna and Louis….

FROM THE HELEN O’HAGAN SAKS FIFTH AVENUE COOK FOR STYLE BOOK 1983

DONNA KARAN FOR ANNE KLEIN DEVILED CHICKEN

1 2 lb. broiling chicken or 2 chicken breasts with bone in

1/3 cup lemon juice

1 tablespoon crushed peppercorns

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons salt

Pre-heat broiler at maximum for 15 minutes.

Lay chicken on a chopping block with the breast facing down and split it open along the entire backbone.  Crack the breast bone from inside. (have your butcher do this!) Spread the chicken as flat as possible.  In other words, flaten the chicken until it looks like a mounted butterfly!

Put the chicken in a deep dish.  Pour the lemon juice over the chicken then add the peppercorns and olive oil.  Cover the dish and let it marinate for 3 hours or overnight  Discard marinade. When ready to cook, sprinkle chicken with salt and broil skin side up about 5″ from the flame.  When skin turns light brown, baste with freshly made marinade.  Turn again after 8 minutes.  Cook briefly on both sides again another 3 minutes or so until meat is tender to the prick of a fork.

If you run out of marinade before chicken is done use a teaspoon more of olive oil.  Before serving use another pinch of crushed pepper.

Serve with rice and almost any vegetable, how about broiled tomatoes.

A dry French wine — white, of course!

Serves 2

All from the book with the exception of discarding the marinade that the chicken has soaked in, I have discarded it and done a fresh batch, add ingredients accordingly.

LOUIS DELL’OLIO FOR ANNE KLEIN FETTUCINE AL SUGO DI VONGOLE

2 dozen littleneck clams (the tinest you can find)

1 tablespoon shallots, chopped

1/2 cup olive oil

1 teaspoon garlic, chopped

2 tablespoons fresh parsely, chopped

1/4 teaspoon dried hot red pepper, chopped

1/4 cup white wine

1 tablespoon butter

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

salt to taste, but not too much

1 pound fettucine or linguine

Wash clams in cold water, put in a covered saucepan over high flame.  As clams open up, shuck them and put into small bowl.  After shucking all the clams pour the juice from the pan over them.  Set aside.  Put shallots in small saucepan with oil and saute over medium high heat until translucent.  Add the garlic and saute until light gold color appears.  Add parsley and hot pepper, stir a bit, add wine.  Allow wine to boil until it evaporates by half.  Turn off heat. Chop the clams up even smaller than the smallest one.  Filter the clam juice though a seive lined with a paper towel or cheese cloth.  You should have 2/3 cup of liquid.  If there is more, discard it.  Add the liquid to the sauce and boil again until reduced by half.  Add the chopped up clams, they should be turned quickly into the sauce.  Turn off heat.  Add butter and cheese.  Mix thoroughly.  Taste and correct with salt.  Salt many not be required.

Add 1 1/2 teaspoons salt to 4 quarts boiling water, then drop in pasta and drain as soon as it it tender, but nutty (al dente) to the bite.  The minute the pasta is drained, put it in a warming serving dish, pour the sauce over it.  Re-heat sauce if no longer hot.  Toss thoroughly and serve immediately.  Grated cheese, although not recommended for clam sauce, can be served on the side. Serves 4.

Serve with a dry white wine, French or Italian, and a simple salade Verde (endive, watercress, lightly dressed)

 

 

 

COLLECTIONS: INSECTS PART 1……IN FASHION

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I’ve been seriously thinking about bees and how their demise will effect our beloved Earth, we MUST protect them and see that they continue to exist!!!  It got me to thinking about how insects, in general, are always with us and how they turn up in fashion, beauty, interiors, art, books…etc., etc!  I have gathered so much “stuff” that this will be a two-part post this week and next week.

As I was preparing to do this post I was drawn again to A. S. Byatt’s book, Angels & Insects.  I actually saw the film before I read the book.  I found both beautifully detailed, the 1995 film, in particular, was visually stunning, (I love Kristen Scott Thomas in anything!) but also disturbing.  If you haven’t seen it here is the trailer https://youtu.be/bdqnz-FtIog to wet your appetite.

imageFrom the film Angels & Insects, one of the main characters in costume.  No, it isn’t for a costume party it is a day dress but why, one would ask, would you want to look like a bumble bee???!!!

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imageA Lasage gold embroidered bee that was created for an Haute Couture garment. Pinterest photo credit unknown.

imageA truly magnificent gown and hat from the genius of Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen.  I am obsessed with the faux tortoise shell detail scattered with gold and tortoise bees. The gold honeycomb and bees are all embroidered by hand.  Pinterest photo credit unknown.

imageThe Lesage embroidered, on net, sleeve of a Chanel Spring 2016 Haute Couture gown.  Pinterest photo credit unknown.

imageA jeweled honeycomb minaudière from Judith Leiber, I mean seriously…what a work of art!!! Pinterest photo credit unknown.  I’ll do a Fashion Flashback story on Judith Leiber in a future post.

imageA needlepoint chair seat on an antique chair at a private club in Chicago.

imageNapoleon adored bees and used them in many forms.  Here is a woven piece.  Perhaps I should adapt it for my logo!!!???  Pinterest photo credit unknown.

imageBee hives on the top of a downtown Chicago building.  All new commercial roof tops must have green space.  Many older buildings such as City Hall have gone green as well. Bravo Chicago.  Pinterest photo credit unknown.

The following is taken from the absolutely fascinating website The Honeybee Conservancy http://www.thehoneybeeconversancy.org  You can sponsor bee hives and learn so much about bees and their place in history as well as today.

“Although he was never a beekeeper, Napoleon used the honey bee as one of the most important symbols of the power and prestige of his empire.

There seems to be two schools of thought of why Napoleon’s government chose the honey bee as part of its iconography.

One school of thought says the honey bee is representational of the Merovingian kings, the founders of France, with whom Napoleon sought to align himself.

Or...

“When Napoleon moved into the Royal Palace at Tuileries he refused to spend money on new decor. However, he could not allow the drapery – with its embroidered fleur-de-lis (the French Royal emblem) – to continue to hang in the windows of the palace. His solution was to have the rich and elegant drapes turned upside down. The inverted symbol of the overthrown monarchy looked like a bee.  From then on, the tenacious bee became the emblem of Napoleon Bonaparte.

imageI took this photo at last month’s Randolph Street Market at Carrie Homann’s booth, on the Second Floor in the Ballroom, from a collection of insect pins. Isn’t the golden bee especially fabulous!  Carrie always has some insect jewelry at the Shows, but she has so many other collections I would suggest you check her out each month (I’ll be posting more from her especially her Bakelite pieces) and remember if you see something you like, at any of the booths, buy it, it many not be there later that day nor the next month.  When you find something you like be sure to ask the dealer if they have any other treasures you might be collecting, they will be happy to let you know what else they might not have brought that month. http://www.randolphstreetmarket.com

imageA close up of a silver bee pin from Carrie Homann’s jewelry collection.

imageA magnificent necklace (I may need to make this my own, love it!) from the unbelievably talented Stephanie Lake (you remember the week of posts, the week of December 12, 2016, I did on Stephanie, her book on Bonnie Cashin and how she and her husband entertain) http://www.stephanielakedesign.com  Photo courtesy of Stephanie Lake Design.

Let’s switch from bees to beetles….a fascinating story about beetle wing embroidery this amazing phenomenon was brought, along with the site infomation, to my attention by my friend and Columbia College Chicago Faculty member, Virginia Heaven (you have seen some pieces from her vast collections of objects in past posts).  I, of course, needed to do some research on this and found a couple of photos on Pinterest photo credits unknown, that I am sharing with you.,

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The following excerpt is from the scolarly journal,  Nineteenth-Century Art Worldwide http://www.19thc-artworldwide.org  It is an absolutely fascinating site.

The earliest form of insect-adorned Western dress derived its inspiration from beetle-embridroidered fabric from India imported by England in the 1840’s and 1850’s.”

Next Thursday we will continue to explore the world of insects in fashion, beauty and home…don’t freak out, we will look at some more beetles and the sheer beauty of the webs spiders spin.  I think you will be interested, and perhaps educated, I know I have been, in how they are used in ways you wouldn’t consider, and no, I’m not doing any recipes using them!!!!!

I leave you with a man and his suit……image

 

 

WEDNESDAY MUSINGS: WATER FEATURES

imageIt’s Summer People and what better way to cool down than by being by or looking at water…you might have noticed we sit on the edge of a body of water, Lake Michigan, actually, I do sit on a body of water, my home is on lake fill!!!!  Oh, my!  Let’s look at some of our wonderful water features.

imageThe two images above grace the Penthouse terrace of a dear friend who adores anything Art Deco and fills his home and terrace with treasures from the period.  By looking at these wonderful small pools of water you can see why.  I am obsessed with them and I will share more photos of the terrace later this summer.  The photos were taken several years ago and it has evolved but the silver lady is still the focal point.

imageA granite pillar fountain in the backyard of  Tom Hawley and Tom Mantel’s Mid-Century modern home.  I love the tranquility of it.

imageAnd in their front yard, an ode to Frank Lloyd Wright on his 150th year.  Isn’t this a stunner!!!  I love to sit in the living room and look out the window at this piece of sculpture.

image You might prefer wonderous ponds on an estate’s grounds, also relaxing and divine scenery to capture your interest.

imageOr perhaps you would like a small waterfall in your garden.  I took this photo at the Flower and Garden Show at Navy Pier earlier this year, http://www.chicagoflower.com. Next year’s show is March 14-18, 2018.  I’m mad for the look of it and it seems to be a fairly easy feature to achieve in a small space, did I say easy….I guess I am watching too much HGTV, however, I did (all by myself!!!) dig out all the sod, 12 inches deep, and laid 8 ton of flagstone then built a raised Japanese garden in one corner, in my Evanston garden many, many years ago…Mom was the gardener, green arms, she cultivated over 200 rose bushes, mostly old fashioned English roses…but that is yet another post!

imageA waterfall in the City, why not, the John Handcock Center thought it would be a good idea…I agree and now that there is a Starbucks on that level as well as the Cheesecake Factory, to satisfy your cravings, it has great sitting spaces…what a perfect place to relax and watch the world go by!  Pinterest photo, credit unknown,

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At the North end of Millennium Park is the Wrigley Square Fountain.

imageI think this image is the most iconic with the Crown Fountain perfectly silhouetted againist our truly extraordinary skyline!  Exquisite!!!! Pinterest photo credit unknown.

From the City of Chicago website some Crown Fountain facts:

“Designed by Spanish artist Jaume Plensa, the Crown Fountain in Millennium Park is a major addition to the city’s world-renowned public art collection.

The fountain consists of two 50-foot glass block towers at each end of a shallow reflecting pool. The towers project video images from a broad social spectrum of Chicago citizens, a reference to the traditional use of gargoyles in fountains, where faces of mythological beings were sculpted with open mouths to allow water, a symbol of life, to flow out.

Plensa adapted this practice by having faces of Chicago citizens projected on LED screens and having water flow through an outlet in the screen to give the illusion of water spouting from their mouths. The collection of faces, Plensa’s tribute to Chicagoans, was taken from a cross-section of 1,000 residents.

The fountain’s water features operate during the year between mid-spring and mid-fall, while the images remain on view year-round.”

imageI always love sitting in this hidden gem at The Art Institute of Chicago’s McKinlock Court.  You can enjoy Jazz on Thursday evenings.  I’ve gone there my entire life….a very long time and still find it a peaceful oasis in the middle of my city!

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Moving further South on Michigan Avenue is this serene scene at the South end of the Art Institute of Chicago.  Not only is  this an extraordinary fountain display but a divine allèe that is truly glorious no matter the season. Designed and constructed between 1962 and 1967, the garden is one of Dan Kiley’s best-preserved commissions from the period.

imageAs you walk into the park you find this Fountain of the Great Lakes, a sculptural fountain by Lorado Taft created in 1913.  An aside, I did a Jhane Barnes men’s wear fashion show in this space, it was quite a fun and unique event and featured the talented Midnight Circus http://www.midnightcircus.net as entertainment, they are amazing and I used their performers many times when I was at Saks.  I see that they are performing in Chicago’s parks this summer, check them out you won’t be disappointed!

imageI don’t have this fountain’s provenance but as you walk South from the Art Institute and a bit off Michigan Avenue (the railway tracks are just to the East) you will come upon this charmer.

imageOf course, my favorite of all our Chicago water features is Buckingham Fountain.  As a little girl, Mom and I would often meet Daddy for dinner and a stroll down Michigan Avenue, I would run (much to Daddy’s chagrin) from Michigan Avenue to the Fountain to watch the lights change, I knew in my heart that it was all Daddy’s magic and he made it happen!  He did you know!!!  When I am teaching at Columbia College Chicago I can look out my classroom window and see the Fountain in all seasons.  It is a joyful occasion when it is turned on in May!  A Nena’s Note, yet another fashion show venue for Saks Fifth Avenue Chicago…we did an Emanuel Ungaro personal appearance and fashion show in a tent by the Fountain.  It was a benefit for the Woman’s Board of the Alliance Française de Chicago http://www.af-chicago.org.  May I brag and say it was a phenomenal evening and a very successful event.

I thought you might like a brief history of the Fountain, the following is taken from the Chicago Park District website http://www.chicagoparkdistict.com/…buckingham-memorial-fountain

“The Fountain officially opened to the public on May 26, 1927, and was dedicated on August 26, 1927.  As the centerpiece of Grant Park—“Chicago’s Front Yard”, architect Edward H. Bennett (1874–1954) designed the Fountain to serve as the park’s formal focal point without obstructing the views of the Lake Michigan. Kate Sturges Buckingham (1858-1937) dedicated the structure to the people of Chicago in 1927 in memory of her late brother, Clarence, donating one million dollars for the Fountain. 
 
Edward H. Bennett designed the monument in collaboration with French sculptor Marcel Loyau and engineer Jacques H. Lambert. Inspired by the Latona Fountain at Versailles, the structure is composed of four basins clad in elaborately carved granite and pink Georgia marble.  Buckingham Fountain, however, is twice the size and re-circulates approximately three times more water than its French counterpart. Chicago’s fountain is also unique as it symbolizes Lake Michigan. Conveying the enormity of the lake, its major display uses as much as 15,000 gallons of water per minute and sprays water to a height of 150 feet from the ground. The massive lower basin features four sets of Art Deco style sea horses representing the four states that border Lake Michigan.
 
To create the sea-related bronze elements, sculptor Marcel Loyau studied the sea horse collection at a zoological institution in Paris. The fountain’s sculptural elements garnered Loyau the Prix National at the 1927 Paris Salon. The monument’s original design included colored lighting to emulate soft moonlight. During the dedication in August of 1927, John Philip Sousa conducted while his band played “Pomp and Circumstance” before an audience of 50,000 people. 
 
For years, the fountain was entirely manually operated by two engineers who each worked a twelve-hour daily shift. Although the evening light show was first automated in 1968, the water continued to be manually operated until 1980, when the operations were fully computerized. From 1983 to 1994, the fountain’s computer was located in Atlanta. Today, however, it is on site and with a monitoring system in Arlington Heights, IL.  
 
The Fountain has remained intact except for a brief theft of two carved fish heads from the fountain, weighing several pounds each. The fish heads were recovered when a salvage place was offered the pieces and the buyer thought they looked very familiar and reported them.”
I would love to hear your comments on your favorite water features in and around Chicago.
ALL PHOTOS WERE TAKEN BY NENA IVON UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED