FASHION NOW: SPRING 2018 PART 8 PARIS

imageHow appropriate that Off-White‘s Founder and Creative Director, Virgil Abloh, will be making a special personal appearance at Saks Fifth Avenue, Chicago on Thursday, October 5th with his Fall 2017 Men’s and Women’s Collections. He has just shown his Spring 2018 Collection, an ode to Princess Diana, in Paris.  Be among the first to shop the exclusive capsule collection, “SHOCK WAVES” and experience “LAST DANCE” the new visual installation designed by Virgil Abloh himself.  This is the first-ever PA with Virgil Abloh among Saks Fifth Avenue’s fleet of locations.  The event will be from 6 to 7 and is open to the public!!!!  WOW!! Be sure this is on your calendar for a special go-to event.

Now let’s take a look at what Off-White looks like for Spring 2018.

imageContinuing a theme we are seeing. particularly in the Paris shows, the emphasis on the shoulder.  And, of course, black and white.

imageMore bold shoulder and denim, of course.

imageOne of the colors for Spring 2018, bold pink paired with silvery tulle.

imageThe glamour of black with two of the hot accessories we are seeing in all collections, gloves and interesting shoes….

imageObviously black and white but more importantly another trend the romantic “prom dress”.

imageThe Finale

imageVirgil Abloh with Naomi Campbell who ended the show.

Two designers who are always on the cutting edge of fashion….Rick Owens and John Galliano for Maison Margiela.  Both always intrigue us with their vision and forward-thinking creativity.  To me, it is like art you either like it or you don’t that is the challenge of interpreting fashion and the question, to my mind’s eye, remains do we need to demystify it at all!  In my opinion, and that is the only one I can give you, is there are ideas to take away from each of the collections we see each season.

Rick Owens has a very special aesthetic, for Spring 2018 you will see a continuing of his manipulation of fabric to form the garments, truly ingenious.

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In John Galliano’s hands, Maison Margiela has become even more modern and for spring 2018 he showed many variations on the trench coat along with other trends.

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imageimageimageA fantastically creative collection with so much to inspire us.

The Kenzo look has evolved over the years but it hasn’t lost its Asian tradition.

imagePrints…always!

imageimageKimono-inspired denim, love this!

Interesting article, The Design Companies Conquering New Ground, in last Sunday’s New York Times T Magazine.  One of the furniture companies featured was Roche Bobois, and the founder of Kenzo, Kenzo Takada, is designing a new collection for this established French line.  When he left his namesake company (and yes, I did work with him back in the day, actually I did a nenasnotes post on that experience) he became a super fine artist, his paintings are fabulous.  The next step for him was to do fabrics to cover some of the companies iconic furniture pieces.  He, of course, looked to the kimono for inspiration for the fabrics and a selection of pottery.

imageKenzo Takada in his Paris apartment T Magazine photo by Bea De Giacomo

imageBalmain Spring 2018 by Olivier Rousteing, the stage for the show at the baroque Opera Garnier.

A few of the 82-look collection worn by Rousteing’s supermodel friends and not a Kardashian or Jenner in sight!

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All photos from Pinterest credits unknown unless otherwise noted.

 

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FASHION NOW: SPRING 2018 PART 7 PARIS

imageWe have come to our final destination for our Spring 2018 Fashion Weeks….Paris and so far it hasn’t disappointed!  Lots of trends, lots of new venues and designers with established Houses.  Let’s take a look at several of the Brands I always follow, no new ones here but the current designers are looking to the originators for their inspiration…

Saint Laurent chose to do their show in front of the iconic Eiffel Tower…wow, could anything be more French….having Dior and Saint Laurent on the same day to me is quite ironic since Yves Saint Laurent was Dior’s Assistant and the person M. Dior chose to succeed him.  We will look at Dior next.

imageThe catwalk and seating, amazing!

imageOne of the trends that has been in almost all collections from New York to Paris, the broad shoulder influenced by the 1980’s and to think Dynasty is being given a new life in a new TV series….interesting.  This looks very YSL with the twist of the feather boot.  I quite like them.

imageimageTwo more looks straight out of the Saint Laurent archives, the deep plunge neckline and tight accented waist and the bold pink “ruffle” bodice with black…note the shoe and the boot, as I have mentioned in the last 6 posts, footwear is what is happening, without question…lots and lots of new looks to add to our wardrobes.

imageimageimageThe Saint Laurent version of the LBD!

imageThe Saint Laurent finale.

The House of Christian Dior is celebrating its 70th year with major exhibitions, books by the score and a stunning new collection by its first female designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri. Spring 2018 kicked off the Paris Collections and her theme was women in art and saluted Niki de Saint Phalle’s art.  The show took place in the gardens of the Musée Rodin and the stage had 80,000 pieces of mirror 7.2 tons of concrete, a workforce of 80 and 20 days to complete….I’m sure it was spectacular…here is a partial view of the masterpiece.

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imageStripes, denim, messages on tees. First Exit!

imageDenim with wool fringe, love this look, fresh, on trend.

imageBlack and white leather with color accents with a tulle skirt, of course, to be worn with a lining but I really like the juxtaposition of hard chic with the tulle skirt.

imageThe 2018 version of the Bar jacket topping another tulle skirt with Niki’s art applique.

imageOne of the colors for Spring 2018, red here in leather and knits, two more of the trends we have seen in all the markets.

imageChrome and stripes.

imagePink spangles.

imageThis, to me, is very Christian Dior, classic yet modern, a forever dress and making it even more “now” worn with flats!

imageLanvin show at the Grand Palais the first collection by Artistic Director Olivier Lapidus who has plans to turn the oldest continuing House into “a French Michael Kors”.  The House has been in decline since the departure of the talented Elber Albaz.

imageOne of the colors of the Spring 2018 season.

imageAnd red….again note the footwear.

One of my favorite designers is Dries Van Noten, his combination of color and prints is always imaginative and thought-provoking.  Here are a couple of looks from his Collection.

imageimageimageStripes one of my major trends for Spring 2018 along with chrome yellow.

imageimageThe LBD Dries style.

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FASHION NOW: SPRING 2018 REVIEW PART 6 MILAN

imageMilan proved to be a mix of straightforward elegance and dramatic presentations such as the Fellini inspired spectacular of Antonio Marras, shown above!

Lots of anniversaries celebrated, Missoni, Etro, Fendi, etc., (remember Italian Fashion is all family-based, that is one of the unique qualities of the presentations) and, the show that had everyone talking, Donatella Versace’s tribute to the founder of the Brand, her brother, Gianni and its dramatic finale with five of the 1990’s Super Models, (pity Christy and Linda weren’t there!) fabulous!  So many shows, so much to talk about, I’m just going to touch on a few and continue to see what I can find that is tieing trends together from New York to Paris you will be reading this until the next series of shows occur!

We began Milan Fashion Week with Gucci and end with Dolce & Gabbana.

Gucci Spring 2018….

imageStripes, shine, pink, orange and black and white.

imageStripes, knit…be sure to notice the handbags and shoes…more socks!

imageDenim, leather, pattern.

imageLeather bomber jacket, layers.

imageThe power suit in pink….a color seen in all collections so far.

imageThe black dress, sexy, a must have, again seen in all collections….a major classic looking new, note the colored textured leg.

Jeremy Scott for Moschino…

imageStage

imagePink tutu with black leather very Katy PerryimageimageFloral finale

Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld…

imageimageimageimageStripes, leather and I know you all hate the socks with sandals, but they are most certainly a trend!

Alberta Ferretti (Yes, I worked with her on a show)…Spring 2018 continues her feminine understated looks.

imageLove the silk trench over the embroidered gown.imageimageimageThe scale of the finale.

Prada…

imageStripes and pink.imageimageLooks more like fall to me but animal print always a good thing no matter the season!

imageLook familiar…very Versace but Fendi…a trend in the making!!!???  Let’s watch it!

Versace…

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imageimagePetal pink

imageDenim and Versace signature prints with a touch of lace…love these!

imageimageTHE FINALE TO END ALL FINALES!!!!

Dolce & Gabbana end Milan Fashion Week…

imageHouse of Cards set, a show produced for and attended by Millenials…interesting concept, and we know all the Millenials like to wear tiaras or flowers in their hair…they have come to the right place!

imageimageimagePrint mix always a D&G signature…

imageStripes…yes…

imageimageBlush pink, okay….

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Glitz, of course

imageBlack check….imageAnd mass model finale, double check!

Okay Paris, show us your stuff!!!!!!!!!

All photos were taken from various internet and Pinterest sources, photo credits unknown.

 

 

 

 

COLLECTIONS: VINTAGE PORTRAITS

 

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Vintage portraits a super collectible in so many ways. You can make-up your family tree if you so desire, do fabulous wall displays, research the history of itinerant painters and naive paintings….the list goes on. What is the picture that I am opening with today, it is mine, sits on my desk purchased, (if I turn my head slightly to the right it is in my view while I am at my lapto)  a zillion years ago at RSM (Randolph Street Market www.randolphstreetmarket.com is Saturday and Sunday, September 23 and 24 from 10 to 5….it is the last outdoor Market of the season, it is, of course, year round inside Plumbers Hall!) it is an oil on wood and I have decided it is me with my. Mother, Ruthy. The frame is in disrepair but I like it that way (Tommy this one is for you!!!)

Come to Randolph Street Market this weekend and find one, two or more to add to or start a collection.  I am featuring some of my favorites as well as introducing you to Melissa Parks who will be at RSM with some of her treasures. Melissa is one of my most admired and go to vendors she has amazing taste and vision with her own collections and she gathers many, many, many items to share with you when she comes to RSM, a must visit booth….and I am absolutely mad for her Instagram posts you can follow her @megillicutti, you won’t be sorry.  l’ll try to convince her to do a Monday Profile…really want to know more about her and share her story with you…fingers crossed!  I asked her to take a couple of photos of her collection of portraits that she displays with her multitude of collectibles.

imageimageimageimageEach definitely has a story to tell.  I particularly like the gentleman who is looking directly at us…what is he saying with his very blue eyes and jaunty mustache!!!! Love all of them.  Melissa, thanks so much for sharing.

Portraits have always been with us and a way not only to capture loved ones but yourself as well.  Here are a few I found on Pinterest and have added to my favorites list.  I actually don’t collect them myself, but you know I have limited space, maybe I will start with some “smalls”!!

imageIsn’t she a charmer with the pearls and magnificent hat.

imageReally, really old but I really, really like her gaze and the primitiveness of it (is that a word!!!!)

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imageI believe a Chagall…

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imageMy photo at RSM, frames all ready for your art!

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imageJust a few suggestions on how to display your collection.

Another vendor I always visit at RSM  is Kevin Gorsch, find him in the Ballroom of Plumbers Hall and follow his Instagram @redleopardcrocodilevintage.  Kevin and I have known each other for years and, in fact, spent many a Sunday getting treasures at the Sandwich Flea Market.  He has shared a couple of portraits with me to pass along to you and included his entrance hall wall where he houses his “family” portraits!!

imageA pastel done by an American in Paris at Le Montmartre.

imageA portrait of Kevin at 13 from a show in San Antonio, no art could be more than $10, it was called the Starving Artists Show, no wonder!

imageKevin done a couple of weeks ago at the Lakeview Festival of Art.

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All of Kevin’s pieces photographed by him.  Huge thanks to Kevin for sharing some of his unique treasures with us.

imageShe is my favorite find on Pinterest…I have become addicted to the site.  I have always be a “clipper” it is in my DNA both my Mother and Father were clippers and I am proud to carry on in the family tradition…I must admit I still pull things out of magazines and newspapers but with all the ways you can save on the Internet I am in pig heaven!

Unless otherwise noted all photos are from Pinterest credits unknown.

I just heard on the Channel 7 News that The Hungry Hound’s www.abc7chicago.com/hungryhound featured restaurant tomorrow night will be one of my new favs and one I reviewed several weeks ago…PROXI www.proxichicago.com.  Emmanuel Nony promised to give me a recipe so here it is….enjoy and do go to the restaurant and enjoy a fantastically creative menu.

PROXI Restauran Andrew Zimmerman, chef

Fried Fish Collars with Thai garlic-chili sauce

Serves four

8pc fish collars, about 6oz each, cleaned by your fishmonger

or 2 whole fish (red snapper for example) about 1.5-2 lbs each, cleaned by your fish monger or and fish fillets that you like (one per person about 5-6oz each)

½ cup white rice flour

2 tbsp tempura flour

1-2 tbsp salt

2 limes, cut into wedges

12-16 sprigs of cilantro

8 cups vegetable oil (or enough to fill a Dutch oven or wide pot to a depth of about 6 inches)

Sauce:

2 tsp vegetable oil

3 tbsp minced shallots

1.5 tbsp sambal oelek

3 tbsp chopped cilantro

1 tbsp minced garlic

2 tbsp fish sauce

2 tbsp sugar

¼ cup tamarind water (made from 4oz seedless tamarind and 3 cups water…warmed up…mashed and then strained)

Pre heat an oven to 200 F.

Pre heat the oil in a wide pot or dutch oven to 350 F.

Have a sheet pan lined with paper towels topped with a rack handy.

To make the sauce, heat the vegetable oil in a sauce pan.  Add the shallots, cilantro and garlic.  Cook for about two minutes until the shallots are softened.  Add the samabal, fish sauce, sugar and tamarind water.  Cook about three minutes more.

Remove from heat and keep warm.

For the fish collars,  lightly season the collars with salt and them combine the rice and tempura flours.  Completely coat the collars in the flour mix and add them in batches to the hot oil.  Fry about 4-5 minutes or until lightly golden brown and hot all the way through.  As the collars are finished remove them from the oil and put them on the rack over the paper towels to drain.  Keep warm in the oven as you cook the remaining collars.

To serve:  put some of the sauce down on four plates.  Top the sauce with the fish collars. And then some cilantro sprigs and the lime pieces.

Serve.

Nena’s note…I am suggesting a wonderful dry white wine or champagne.  It is a delicious dish, enjoy!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

FASHION NOW: SPRING 2018 REVIEW PART 5 LONDON

imageGareth Pugh, the avant-garde designer joined forces with photographer, Nick Knight for a 16-minute film which features these out of the future (is the future now!!!???) metallic garments…meant to be worn, I’ll leave that to you.

imageHussein Chalayan, to my mind’s eye, is one of the most imaginative innovators out there, he never disappoints with his creativity.  Alongside very wearable pieces, he showed a group of gowns with headpieces of rectangular frames with Swarovski crystals, while the flowing gowns were almost Grecian in feeling, complete with rough sandals.

imageAnother futuristic piece from Chalayan.

imageThe opening piece in the Chalayan presentation, some of the models wore headscarves and sunglasses over their faces, the designer said this was “a nod to chic but peculiar mood”.

IMG_0632Christopher Kane, bold splashy print, it does seem that London is all about the shoes….

IMG_0633Black shine with very feminine touches of white lace…hard chic made romantic.

IMG_0634Add to our floral trend mood board.

imageRefreshing white with two accessories to watch…long gloves and fascinating, to say the least, shoes!

imageAs I have mentioned in past posts, designers have chosen to show their collections in cities other than their own….who could be more American than Tommy Hilfiger and here he presents his totally American collection to close out London Fashion Week!

Fresh, very young and very Hilfiger and his collaboration with Gigi Hadid whose previous collections have been sell-outs. One of the trends I am following in all collections is leather, and here we see a short sleeve motorcycle jacket complete with studs…looks new and very now when paired with a floaty print and very short shorts in denim, another continuing trend….think of it with jeans or a slim skirt if shorts aren’t right for you and they certainly aren’t right for everyone! Tommy Hilfiger RTW Spring 2018A close-up of hair and make-up as well as the detail on the jacket.imageBoho-inspired floral float with tights and shoe booties….interesting for a Spring collection.

On to Milan…..stripes, glitz, neon color along with black and white….here a preview of Gucci’s interpretation for Spring 2018!!!

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BOOKS BOOKS BOOKS: FASHION IN FICTION

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Since I am in the midst of reviewing the four major fashion markets in my posts I thought it might be amusing to look at some of the novels that have fashion and/or fashion designers as their theme…when I looked at my fashion book library I found I had many…some new some not so much!  I do keep all my fashion books (or should I say it is a work in progress) on LibraryThing, www.librarything.com it is a wonderful site to catalog all your books, I have chosen just do my Fashion Book Library, I’m about halfway through listing them.  You can tag them and find them easily, (for example all my Chanel books are tagged as well as being together on shelves in my Library) that is where I researched my fictional fashion books.  I’m sure there are many more titles out there as well as more or mine…do share your favorites.

Here then is a sampling and is by no means complete and is not in any order….

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Probably my most favorite….the story of a love for Dior….it is amazing!

imageAnother favorite and one I reviewed in nenasnotes….Oscar de la Renta plays a starring role.

imageimageI enjoyed both of these about Mlle. Chanel.

imageAnother take on Mademoiselle.

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Showing the not so nice side of fashion, in the author’s opinions, over the years…yes, even Judith Krantz and Danielle Steele have written about fashion! Probably the only Steele I have read…I must confess to having read all of Krantz back in the day!

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imageBoth about stores…. James Patterson has also done a book called The Store which was published in August….haven’t read it as yet….comments if you have!

imageimageBoth new on my TBR list reviews forthcoming.

imageOne I can’t wait to read, to be published October 24th, the fictionalized story of the Sutherland sisters who became the incredible designer, Lucile, Lady Duff Gordon, and the infamous author, Elinor Glyn.  I will, most certainly, do a review on it as soon as it is published!

 

FASHION NOW: SPRING 2018 REVIEW PART 4 LONDON FASHION WEEK

As I mentioned in my last post, we look to London for innovation and cutting-edge trends….well look no further, the London shows are on target for being advanced, and the week has just started, like them or not….here they come!

Peter Pilotto a design team, Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos, met while studying at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, their label was founded in 2007.  Known for their vibrant prints and body-hugging silhouettes. Chrome yellow, stripes, strong tropical prints have crossed the Pond!

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Alice Temperley, like most renowned English designers, studied at Central Saint Martins in London and launched her line in 2000. Do look for her book, True British, writren to celebrate her 10th anniversary.  I have chosen some of the trends that I saw in the New York shows, stripes, bold color, pastel pink (all shades of pink!), silver sequins, and, of course, black.  Note the shoes….

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Does the name Burberry sound familiar to you…of course it does!  Christopher Bailey has reinstated the Burberry plaid logo throughout the Spring 2018 collection which was shown at a former East London court, Old Sessions House. Loved everything about it…I must say I even tended to like the socks with the sandals…but am very afraid of what that trend will look like when worn by those who don’t know “style” if you get my drift! No offense meant!

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imageimageLooks like Kaia Gerber crossed the Pond as well…

imageAnother well-established name is Giorgio Armani who showed his Emporio Armani collection in London…it is interesting to see which International fashion stars are showing in cities and countries other than their home base. American brands Rodarte, Monique Lhuillier, and Proenza Schouler showed Spring 2018 just before the Paris Couture Collection in July.

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Mary Katrantzou also studied at Central Saint Martins and started her house in 2009.  Known for her combination of color and prints her Spring 2018 collection doesn’t disappoint.

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It seems to me that shoes are taking the place of handbags for the excitement in accessories…but then we have seen interesting handbags as well, I wonder, both on our must have lists…why not!

 

 

FASHION NOW: SPRING 2018 REVIEW PART 3 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

imageI’ve become enamored with fashion quotes and adore this one….it says it all, don’t you agree!

We have come to the end of New York Fashion Weeks and are now on to London, which I will review on Monday.  London has become quite cutting edge (but remember London has given us Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Vivianne Westwood, not to mention Mary Quant, Ossie Clark and, of course, the Father of Haute Couture Charles Frederick Worth and one of the first women Couturiers, Lucile Duff Gordon…..and the list goes one….so it really has been cutting edge forever!

Let’s look at three more of the stalwart New York designers…Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs (he always closes the week) and Marchesa.

imageMichael Kors finale….a bit too tropical for my taste but great color and silhouette.  I like to suggest you add print to your already established wardrobe, the prints change so much season to season.

imageI do like print combinations and am very pleased that we aren’t seeing mix-matched patterns and colors for Spring 2018…I much prefer mixing the same tones…here we see a palm print with one of my trends….stripes.  Note the shoes, we will discuss a bit later in this post.

imageSo very Kors….the casual look of the shirt with ombré sequin pants and in blue, another color we have seen on many runways.

imageI believe this is first time we have seen a grey garment in the Spring 2018 collections, it is a stunner and combined with luggage tan. perfection.  Note the grey wood planks for the runway…new, fresh, clean and a bit beachy!

imageHad to feature a LBD, this one I’m mad for….of course, I would need the top longer or the waist of the skirt higher, probably will ship that way.  Flip flops with sequins…why but then again why not.  I’m not a fan of them but they make an interesting statement here!  Kors was another of the many designers who used diverse sizes in his presentation.

imageAll three of the designers I am featuring today have fragrances, actually each has more than one to keep their brand available to those who can’t afford the ready-to-wear.  I chose these from Kors because I think they represent the Spring 2018 line perfectly, Sport, Sexy, Glam!

imageMarc Jacobs has always pushed the buttons from his days at Perry Ellis (that is when I worked with him) to Paris Couture…he is still doing that.  Here three examples of his interpretation for Spring 2018…bold neon colors, splashy dotted prints, oversize coats, jackets and dresses and fascinating accessories.  Love the gloves and creative shoes.

imageColor combinations and layering.  Head wraps throughout the collection.

imageMore color, I haven’t featured much pink in my reviews, but pink, in all shades, it most certainly a trend.  One bag is good, two even better.  I do like the full pant, perhaps pulled in a bit!

imageA stunner, I would have either put the sash lower or cinch the waist, but then I’m not Marc Jacobs.  I’ve shown you Chrome yellow in all my reviews and like it paired with black, brown or navy….I think a thong shoe here….

imageJust a few from Marc’s fragrance collection….many, many more!

imageThe finale and the end of week two of New York Fashion Spring 2018….don’t go away I’m going to show you a few pieces from Marchesa along with a special event invitation.

imageThe Marchesa fragrance.  The name Marchesa honors the eccentric Marchesa Casati, if you haven’t read the biography on her, Infinite Variety, please do so, her life was beyond belief, a super read!

imageGlamour personified!

imageAdore the floral bodice, the skirt not so much.

imageBeautiful and in a magnificent green crepe combined with petal pink…the entire gown looks like a flower…stunning.

imageWe have seen black and white in most collections, always refreshing in any season.

imageIf I get to choose…this would be the gown, perhaps a bit less décolleté, absolutely adore it!

And now for the exciting invitation.  The Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum is hosting a private event with Georgiana Chapman and Keren Craig the Cofounders of Marchesa.  If you are interested in attending please contact ijohnson@chicagohistory.org.

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FASHION NOW: SPRING 2018 REVIEW PART 2 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

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In my last post, I began the month long journey into the Spring 2018 fashion shows in New York, London, Milan, and Paris.  In Part 2 today I show you some of the new cutting edge designers along with four of the “established” creators.  I’m highlighting only a few from the vast assortment of creativity that is shown for two weeks.  You can go to Vogue.com for each collection and see the entire work by each extraordinary designer.  Not only have we seen many, many desingers showing a variety of looks with plenty of trends to keep us going but unusual venues from basketball courts to garages….such is the exciting, changing, dramatic world we call FASHIONB!

Let’s begin with a fairly new name on the fashion scene, Brandon Maxwell, who came to my attention when he made a personal appearance at Neiman Marcus Chicago several months ago.  I think you will agree this is one to watch.

imageOne of the colors of the Spring 2018 season….chrome yellow.  What we are also seeing is a play of contrasting colors in the accessories….a trend in many of the collections.

imageGreat tailored jacket in a pastel pink styled with a bold red top and bag and worn with a slim denim, another trend, jean.

imageLove the cut of this top it makes the arm appear longer and is very flattering.  Of course, the color combination is refreshing.

imageBrandon ended his show with a bride….truly a work of art for that special day.

imageFenty x Puma by Rihanna.  Obviously a sporty collection with lots and lots of color, interesting shoes (I’m a Puma gal!) and bags.  The staging is fascinating done in the round with mounds of pink sand!!??

imageRihanna closes the show as she rides in on a motorcycle, blowing kisses to the audience.  Reminiscent of Donna Karan riding into the Barney’s New York opening in Chicago many years ago.  The celebrity designer phenomenon just keeps growing.  Let’s watch this trend and see where it takes us.  Some collections feature super things some not so much.

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Jonathan Saunders Creative Director for Diane Von Furstenberg….not your little wrap dress anymore but still lots of prints, that DVF is known for, denim, along with uptrend accessories, lots and lots of color and new takes on textiles.  Your thoughts!!??

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Prabal Gurung, another name to put on your radar…not brand new but new enough to keep your eye on.  The color sense is perfection along with the tailoring of the structured jackets (look at silhouette, not short shorts….please!)  I end this group with yet another striking black gown, always a classic for your wardrobe.  In addition, lots of new fabrics to watch for in many of the collections.

imageOne of the looks I liked best in the Derek Lam collection.  I always find leather to be a year round “fabric” and would like to see more of it in Spring collections.

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imageIn my opinion one of the best Creatures of the Wind collections.  Having started in Chicago and being discovered and mentored by Ikram (no better endorsement than that!!!) Shane Gabier and Chris Peters have gone on to become talents to reckon with.

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imageMonse presentation on a private basketball court.  Three trends…stripes, red and denim.  The designers, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, also are the creators behind the Oscar de la Renta label.  Here a couple of looks from the Oscar collection.

imageThe designer’s ode to Oscar with his signature logo used on many print garments,  here on a coat with paint splashed denim crop and pant.  The models made their entrances and exits on an escalator.  I have done this technique in a couple of shows…a bit tricky when you get to full ball gowns, but fun to do!

imageCombining the script with a print in this easy chemise.

imageOur friend chrome yellow with a sequin dress.  It reminds me of Bill Blass combining fabrics…one of my favorite looks.

imageStripes in an oversize jacket teamed with a sheer net dress…the juxtaposition of casual with formal….I like this trend!

imageOf course, lots of ball gowns what would an Oscar de la Renta show be without them!!!!  I think just another show…….

imageimageOne of our all time favorite designers, Carolina Herrera, chose the Museum of Modern Art for her show.  Bold color and stripes for two exquisite gowns that she does so well.

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Ralph Lauren invited a small group of guests to visit his garage of vintage cars and staged yet another of his always updated classic collections.  Complete with menswear fabrics and glorious ballgowns.  I’m mad for the motorcycle jacket with the chrome yellow tulle skirt, I want it!!!!!

 

 

 

FASHION NOW: SPRING 2018 REVIEW PART 1 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

imageMad for this quote….how true….fashion is everywhere and fashion weeks are popping up all over the world.  We still look at the four, what we consider, at least at the moment, major markets….New York, London, Milan, and Paris.  New York began last week and we end in Paris early October.  From what I have seen thus far we are in for a very exciting Spring 2018 season.  What I will be reviewing, probably a couple of times a week, will be the trends that I see happening along with a few of my favorite designers.  Take note that my seeing news and excitement doesn’t necessarily say I “like the garments” I am reporting the excitement of the upcoming season.  And, please, oh please, let’s not discuss age or body image, if you like a look it can be adjusted to your time in life and your figure!

Let’s look at some of my finds….

How convenient that Zac Posen presented his Spring 2018 collection at the same time his documentary, House of Z,  is available.  If you missed my review please check my archives, I posted it on Friday, September 8th.  Zac chose not to do a formal show, actually a show at all, instead he has produced a look book filled with amazing styles.  I have chosen a couple to highlight here.  You can see the amazing embroidery, the incredible detail (the first is an ode to his inspiration designer, Charles James).  The entire collection is timeless and seasonless.  The last piece, a remarkable ball gown is, in my opinion, a masterwork!

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Jason Wu’s youthful but ageless collection featured stripes which showed up in several collections….let’s keep our eyes open for that as a trend.  imageimageI am so excited to share the news that the Jason Wu fragrance is exclusive at Saks Fifth Avenue and I was given a bottle to add to the Nena Ivon Archives at Columbia College Chicago.  The bottle is based on his iconic handbag…see image below of both the bag and the fragrance….that is my fragrance and it’s box in my photo.  Not only sleek stunning packaging and bottle but a delicious scent!

imageimage From the sublime to the whimsical….an around the world fashion adventure with the creativity of Desigual.  Reminds me a bit of the Kenzo of years ago.  Lots of color, pattern and ethnic touches.  A case in point, that Fashion doesn’t need to be classic all the time!

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Speaking of whimsey….there is always Jeremy Scott who is celebrating 20 years in fashion, his collection is always tongue in cheek and this one continues that tradition with a new twist on his old favorites.  He is the darling of Katy Perry, Madonna, Riannah and other celebrities.

imageWatch for very bright almost neon colors in many of the collections.  Love the Doc Martens with this look.

imageWill denim always be with us….yes, yes and yes, in one form or another.  Before you go crazy, you don’t have to do a mini skirt the look can be adapted.

imagePhilipp Plein began his show with a performance by Dita Von Teese, the stage had “strippers” gyrating throughout the presentation….interesting to say the least. He showed both women’s and men’s garments some including leather as details.  These two pictures are showing two of the trends in the early collections, pastels, and denim.image

At the same time this show was going on Alexander Wang was doing not one but two shows with his models on as party bus they first appeared on a street in Manhatten then in Brooklyn, the shows were all over the place.

imageDoes she look famiiar….it is Kaia Gerber, Cindy Crawford’s daughter…she opened the show.  Her first catwalk was in Raf Simons Calvin Klein show.

imageNo need to introduce this young lady to you.  A fabulous little black dress.

A big surprise for me was the Calvin Klein collection by Raf Simons….the two photos below are very against what we think of as the Brand….but I feel very refreshing and very new….lots and lots of color and interesting silhouettes. Love the color combinations of the gloves, shoes, and bags….thoughts of how to update your established wardrobe.

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Tom Ford back in the game as the sexy designer guru….a dynamite collection.  Before you come after me….lose the shorts and look at the sensational hot pink power jacket and the color combination…perfection!

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Two of his evening pieces with beaded sleeves one in neon yellow and the other in pastel dusty pink…the way to look at any special black tie event.

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And, of course, the color he is known for, black, this, to me, is the essence of the little black dress.  One of my favorite looks so far.

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Victoria Beckham just gets better each season (when I worked with her she couldn’t have been more professional nor delightful, a total joy!) A bright red statement.

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imageShades of lilac but with depth in the color.

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imageAnd another LBD, fabulous with lilac pumps.  By the way, she has gone back into the jean scene.  Her first foray was when I worked with her.

The king of the special occasion dress and one of the first designers to use all size models in his shows, Christian Siarino….can we all remember him and his “fierce” attitude on Project Runway….he is an extraordinarily talented young man and I adore his high-end garments always shown with his Payless shoe collection.  Really the way women dress, combining high and low and old and new….imageContinuing my theory of stripes as a trend.

And four of my favorites from the collection….with pastels, brights, black and prints… all part of his progression.  Just gets better and better.

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Can’t wait to see what the next week brings…..stay tuned!