While thinking about today’s topic, I wanted to concentrate on English Dog Art, primarily the Victorian Era, but found so many historical pieces I felt I needed to delve into the subject further than I had planned. We can see that man’s, woman’s and child’s best friend has been immortalized since the beginning of time.

With this in mind, I wanted to ask an art expert so I immediately called upon my dear friend, Gloria Groom, Chair and David and Mary Winton Green Curator, Painting and Sculpture of Europe at The Art Institute of Chicago, to share some of her favorite pieces in The Art Institute’s vast collections.

Here are her choices along with the reasons for choosing them, as always she enlightens us by giving us a look into art that we might not have seen for ourselves, making each work more intimate and more interesting. I send her my heartfelt thanks for contributing to this post. Be sure to get to The Art Institute of Chicsgo for Gloria’s current brilliant exhibition MONET AND CHICAGO now through January 18, 2021. Check The Art Institute’s website for details on hours, social distancing and other important information. https://www.artic.edu

The following illustrations courtesy of Gloria Groom.

“I love this dog who looks as elegant as the distinguished subject by one of Italy’s great portrait painters and because the scale is lifesize the dog seems to be there with us.

Perhaps because he’s an Italian hound which I think my Dog Duke is (despite the fact that according to the ancestry for dogs site, Embark, he’s said to be mostly “Mountain cur” whatever that is!) Here’s Duke and the portrait of him by School of the Art Institute Adjunct professor Mark Krisco! If you ever want an oil painting of your beloved canine he’s the best!”

“Boilly, the quintessential genre painter never disappoints Not only does he draw from the exquisitely detailed realism of Dutch 17h century genre painting but his subjects, often times of the down and out, as in this picture of people moving before the landlord finds them for unpaid rent, he borrows the down to earth subject matter here the perfectly anodyne street dog at the far right almost out of the picture snarls at the smaller dog who is taking cover under the cart while at the left larger, more robust canines (perhaps of the Pit bull family?) pull a cart.”

“And when Boilly takes on the upper crust, as in this amazingly large and painterly pen and ink wash work on paper showing the swells propositioning (or being propositioned by?) the women of the night at the Palais Royale (a well known trysting venue) the dogs, a vignette that could be a picture within a picture, emulate their owners sexual escapades.”

https://www.artic.edu/artworks/191566/the-man-with-the-dog

“This is a fantastic pastel made by Manet during his later years — we’ve not been able to identify the sitter but perhaps the dog is a Newfoundland? But in Manet’s hands he’s simply gestured in chalk onto the page — as in motion with the most economical means of medium and yet he’s all there and we know that he is big and looking at something to the left of the picture frame.”

https://www.artic.edu/artworks/44775/eleanor-margaret-gibson-carmichael

“And finally a work by a British artist that is probably the least known in the collection (with the exception of the Manet and Boilly watercolor which are not on view for conservation reasons), Miss Eleanor Margaret Gibson-Carmichael has a name and a dog bigger than she is. Open mouthed, drooling with joy, he is definitely the family dog (what kind I don’t know) ready for the rough and tumble activities of his pint-size owners.”

I’ll save my Victorian dog paintings for another post. Stay tuned!!!

FASHION TREND REPORT EXCLUSIVELY FOR RANDOLPH STREET MARKET BY NENA IVON, REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION.

Burberry used gaberdine, a waterproof fabric, to make the military trench coats first worn in World War l. This iconic coat has seen many incarnations through the years going from being a military uniform to today’s Influencer’s uniforms. From it’s beginnings with Burberry and Aquascutum to John Galliano for Margiela. From film stars, often playing a character itself, to the Royals. From traditional fabrics to vinyl to exotic skins. The trench coat most certainly defines our monthly fashion theme of ALWAYS CLASSIC ALWAYS NEW!

Women, pictured in their trench coats, became extremely important to the war efforts serving in many necessary jobs and contributing to the advancement of the women’s suffragette movement, first in the UK then the States.

Popularized in print via photographs and illustrations, the trench coat became THE coat to own by men and women a trend that continues to this day a hundred years later.

“Both Aquascutum and Burberry take credit for having “invented” the WWI trench coat, but the truth is that the two firms helped popularize a type of coat already in existence, adapting it for military use. The image of the dashing upper-class officer, valiantly aiding in the war effort, while wearing his trench coat helped cement the panache of the style. Burberry and Aquascutum trench coats were expensive, affordable only for the well-to-do, but cheaper versions were marketed by scores of other retailers – much like today. Foreign soldiers and civilians began wearing the coat during the war, buying into its patriotic associations.” From British Vogue

I always like to suggest a book or two for you to learn more… here is one from Assouline THE TRENCH BOOK.

1940’s gentlemen in their trench coats and fedoras, most likely inspired by Humphrey Bogart in one of his many roles wearing trench coats, most notably, at least to me, Casablanca!!

More vintage inspiring now, worn then, Bogart, Dietrich and Hepburn

More icons… Cara and Kate… more Audrey and Meryl…

One more Audrey with Hubert de Givenchy walking on the Seine.

Peter Sellers as Jacques Clouseau in The Pink Panther always in his white trench.

Peter Falk as the lovable Colombo, the trench coat, for both these detectives, were as much characters as the actors that wore them!

Christopher Bailey, in his reign as Burberry’s Creative Director… made Burberry, in my opinion, the fashion iconic brand it is today. Maintaining its tradition by adding modernity to make it fresh and newly desirable.

Looking at some “Street Fashion”

Rita Ora…

John Galliano for Margiela… deconstructed trench collection… fascinating interpretations of a tradition, made futuristic…

Or perhaps back to the traditional with the Royals and a First Lady…

Perhaps the longest lasting item of clothing starting at the beginning of the 20th Century as military garments becoming the iconic fashion we know today a hundred years later… the trench coat… always classic and definitely always new!!!

—–
by Nena Ivon
www.nenasnotes.com
www.facebook.com/Nena Ivon
www.instagram.com/nenasnotes

All photos from Pinterest photo credits unknown.

Women in the workforce 1910’s appropriately dressed in their white shirtwaists.

FASHION TREND REPORT EXCLUSIVELY FOR RANDOLPH STREET MARKET BY NENA IVON, nenasnotes REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION

Probably the most Always Classic Always New post I did during the first year of nenasnotes blog posts exclusive to Randolph Street Market was this one…White Shirts! Why you ask, because it is worn by everyone, women, men, children… no economic barriers, totally diverse and at all price points. Once considered elitist, and the term remains today, “white collar workers” and “blue collar workers” which, back in the day, really distinguished the classes. I would debate not as much today…but still there but perhaps a bit blured. Always flattering, if you think you can’t wear black or for that matter any color, white around the face works perfectly.

From Wikipedia… “White-collar work may be performed in an office or other administrative setting. Other types of work are those of a blue-collar worker, whose job requires manual labor and a pink-collar worker, whose labor is related to customer interaction, entertainment, sales, or other service-oriented work”.

I’m not going into the tragedy of the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire in New York in 1911, however, if you are not familiar with it I suggest you do your due diligence and research this horrific event in our history.

”It made its first public appearance at the Salon in Paris, worn by a queen in a portrait: Marie Antoinette in a muslin dress. A style and a portrait – by Madame Vigée-Lebrun – far from the royal etiquette: in 1793 it caused a scandal.” Quote attributed to Vogue

“The diversity of the white shirts influence can be traced through many examples, including: Beau Brummell’s dandy status with his legendary white shirting; the Gibson Girl with her decorated white shirt style blouse defining ideals of female beauty; business employees in the 1920s marketing trustworthiness through the uniformity of white shirts; the fictional advertising creation of the Arrow Collar Man, with his rigid white shirt, promoting American masculine ideals….” Quote from Beyond Retro site.

Beau Brummel

Gibson Girl late 1890’s

More Gibson Girls late 1890’s

Could be worn today and from late 1890’s, perhaps your search will yield something similar….I’d personally love it in my wardrobe!!!!

1920’s look.

The Arrow shirt man, a huge marketing success for collars, shirts for every time of the day…these by illustrator Joseph Christian Leyendecker. If you find one let me know I want one too!!!!

Marlene Dietrich in white tie and tails years before Yves Saint Laurent’ “Le Smoking”. Nothing sexier that a woman in black or white tie attire….long before the androgyny of what we accept today.

1948 photo of Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall both in white shirts

1944 Sears Roebuck Catalog, Katherine Hepburn inspired

And the inspiration herself!!!!!!

1940’s “Bobby-soxers” in white shirts, a-line skirts and Oxford shoes.

1940’s ad….if I recall correctly, I thought these were really “cool” Mom would have worn them….these are looks I suggest you seek out they look good with khakis, jeans as well as with suits.

One of the first super models, Bettina wearing the Givenchy “Bettina Blouse” a worldwide sensation in 1952.

Another 1952 Hubert de Givenchy creation.

Audrey Hepburn 1953 screen test for Roman Holiday, casual chic then, casual chic now…

The 1980 film, American Giglio, not only made Richard Gere a star but also his wardrobe made Giorgio Armani the designer every man wanted to dress him and the man every woman wanted to undress….such a scandal and so tame by today’s standards, or lack there of…

Let’s jump ahead to a couple of designers on opposite sides of the ocean, first Gianfranco Ferrė, known as “the architect of fashion”. A independent designer, perhaps best known as the third designer to succeed Christian Dior (following Yves Saint Laurent and Marc Bohan). He was so obsessed with the white shirt he devoted a book and an exhibition to this iconic wardrobe item. Let’s look at some…

And Carolina Herrera, no one does the white shirt better… As for white shirts, Carolina Herrera says… “They make me feel secure,” she once said. “When I don’t know what to wear, I choose a white shirt.”

In my opinion… total perfection!!!

Wouldn’t you agree…stunning for any gala occasion, or work, or…

Vogue Cover with The Super Models all wearing Gap white shirts…what a modern statement.

I will end with Elle Fanning at the 2019 Cannes Film Festival, wearing a modern version of the 1956 Christian Dior collection in 2019 Dior.

I must admit this post could be MUCH longer but I do have enough material to do a part two in another post…stay tuned!!

October 13, 2020

Each year I repost my original story of how I envisioned my blog to be, and have added an up date on each year and here we begin Year FIVE! I must admit my original thoughts have pretty much remained the same but also admit I’ve been remiss in posting regularly…sorry about that. This year has been beyond comprehension to say the least and hopefully when we establish our “new normal” we will get back to enjoying the pleasures we have had to put aside. We shall get through this pandemic and I truly believe be the better, different, for all our traumas. (PS I now understand an updated post doesn’t get sent to you so to reread my last October 13th posts go to the archives, sorry about that!)

Much has changed and much has involved. I led my last year’s update with the story of the huge success of nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club event with the personal appearance of Victor Skrebneski and the launch of his book….this year I brought you the news of Victor’s passing. What a difference a few months make.

I continue with nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club and added nenasnotes The Fashion Film Club both now done virtually via Zoom. This has allowed me to include non-local attendees. I will be launching nenasnotes The Fashion Master Class in December, I’ve been asked for years if people could take classes I taught at Columbia College Chicago…this will be an extension of some of those classes.

Fall has always been the start of the year for me so it is appropriate that I revisit my “virtual diary” each year at this time. I hope you will continue reading my musings, please comment, let me know if there is anything special you would like me to research and share with you and share nenasnotes with your friends.

Until next time, my friends, stay safe and well….

N

OCTOBER 11, 2020

Each year I repost my original story of how I envisioned my blog to be, and have added an up date on each year and here we begin Year FIVE! I must admit my original thoughts have pretty much remained the same but also admit I’ve been remiss in posting regularly…sorry about that. This year has been beyond comprehension to say the least and hopefully when we establish our “new normal” we will get back to enjoying the pleasures we have had to put aside. We shall get through this pandemic and I truly believe be the better, different, for all our traumas.

Much has changed and much has involved. I led my last year’s update with the story of the huge success of nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club event with the personal appearance of Victor Skrebneski and the launch of his book….this year I brought you the news of Victor’s passing. What a difference a few months make.

I continue with nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club and added nenasnotes The Fashion Film Club both now done virtually via Zoom. This has allowed me to include non-local attendees. I will be launching nenasnotes The Fashion Master Class in December, I’ve been asked for years if people could take classes I taught at Columbia College Chicago…this will be an extension of some of those classes.

Fall has always been the start of the year for me so it is appropriate that I revisit my “virtual diary” each year at this time. I hope you will continue reading my musings, please comment, let me know if there is anything special you would like me to research and share with you and share nenasnotes with your friends.

Until next time, my friends, stay safe and well….

October 13,2019

BEGINNING YEAR FOUR…

October 13, 2019

It’s the beginning of year four of nenasnotes amazing how quickly a year goes by…..I must admit I am basically in the same position I was when I wrote last year’s updated post. I have been remiss in doing regular posts and for that I apologize. The nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club has taken on a life of its own and the monthly meetings are continuing to grow. I was beyond thrilled that the Uber talented Victor Skrebneski joined me in conversation about his sensational new book SKREBNESKI DOCUMENTED: 1948-2018. I will be doing a post in the near future, I promise, on the friendship we have shared for many, many years….stay tuned.

I finally had my first guest post with Barbara Varro’s nostalgic trip with her fabulous reminisces of her celebrity interviews while fashion editor at the Chicago Sun-Times. More guest posts to come, again, I promise. I know you like my book reviews…you can count on more of them.

Okay, your turn what would you like me to concentrate on….by now you know when I post I do have a lot to say…I’d love to know what you want me to research for you….or do you prefer when I take a trip down memory lane with designers I have worked with, personality profiles, book reviews, or just my ramblings about things I find interesting….please let me know your thoughts in the comments.

Year four…..here we go!

October 13, 2018

Another year has flown by and I am now starting year three of NENASNOTES. I must admit I haven’t been consistent of late, computer issues, other obligations, etc. I plan to continue my same schedule with more tweaks. I am asking the people I have profiled over the last two years to do a guest post on whatever subject they like. I think their thoughts will be of interest to all of us. I do like my Tuesdays posts, BOOKS BOOKS BOOKS, and will continue them and probably expand to an additional day. This has led to the formation of NENASNOTES The Fashion Book Club a monthly gathering to discuss all manner of fashion books, featuring fascinating authors and a throughly engaged audience, I will do monthly posts on these books as well. More recipes, more decor, more fashion….yes, all of those along with interesting personality profiles. If you have something you would like me to discuss please let me know. By now, if you follow me, you know I have a wide range of interests that I like to share with my readers. I now also do two monthly posts for the Randolph Street Market blog, one on collection trends and one on fashion trends these are totally different from my NENASNOTES posts. Do follow me there, on Instagram, (I’m having a blast there!) and Pinterest. I am in the process of launching a sponsorship program with unique incentives based on level of funding. So lots to look forward to…I do hope you will continue to join me in my ventures and do recommend NENASNOTES to your friends and please make comments, they are invaluable. Here we go….welcome Year Three!

October 13, 2017

Here is what I wrote one year ago today when I launched NENASNOTES, as I begin my second year, my goals remain the same. I have tweaked the daily themes a bit but the concept hasn’t changed. I will be adding new features and ask that you watch for an upcoming announcement of how you can supoort me and what incentives you can expect. I hope you are enjoying my thoughts on the variety of lifestyle things that interest me…so I say, Happy Birthday NENASNOTES and I hope you, my followers, will continue to join me on a regular basis and invite your friends to have their morning coffee with us as well.

October 13, 2016

Well, here we go….I have been waiting to start my blog NENASNOTES for what seems like ages, actually, it has been ages!

It began with the current trend of focusing on people reinventing themselves, through career and/or lifestyle changes. I realized that there are so many of my friends and acquaintances whose diverse lives now are totally different from how they started. First up were my many former models who were superstars in the myriad shows I produced during my lengthy career as Fashion and Special Director at Saks Fifth Avenue, Chicago. Most, if not all, have totally changed careers and become successful with their new life choices. You will learn their stories, reminiscences and photos from then and now.

MY MODEL CREW IN THE 1960’S

I thought why not carry this further to my other friends and people I know who had fascinating stories to tell and was I correct in that assumption! I began this process with a handful of people, which soon became many more, by doing an in person hour long taped conversational interview and Proust-like questionnaire. Again, I asked for photos and this time a favorite recipe. I hope you will enjoy these posts as much as I am enjoying gathering them. They are riveting.

Tuesday….Books, books, books. I’m afraid I have a book fetish, especially fashion books. It seems to be my goal in life to own every fashion book printed!!! So we will start there. I do read a lot, particularly historical fiction, I love fiction about “real” people, we will go that route as well. Nothing like a good English mystery but don’t mind a “Cozy” once in awhile and can never miss Louis Penny’s newest (who doesn’t love Armand!). So much to read so little time.

A SAMPLING OF MY CHANEL LIBRARY

Wednesday….Miscellany day could be a great recipe, restaurant, movie, play….whatever strikes my fancy that week.

CHICAGO HISTORY MUSEUM TIFFANY STAINED GLASS

Thursday….Homes and Gardens, again tapping my friends and their eclectic styles, mostly self-decorated homes and brilliant gardens. A glimpse at my tiny space as well.

A FRIEND’S EXQUISITE SOLARIUM

Friday….Fashion Flashback. I’ve worked with over 150 designers and fashion personalities through the years and want to share some of these experiences with you. I’m sure those of you who know me thought the blog would be all about the “glamorous” fashion shows I produced, yes, there is that but the nitty gritty as well and only one day a week.

Here we go….I hope you will join me on my on reinvention.