FASHION: Vintage Designer Handbags… Always Classic, Always New

Designer handbags…it seems to me that this is a trend that is one of the most classic of all and one that isn’t going to go away. Usually a major investment, think the Birkin or Kelly bags for examples but if you think of how many years you will treasure your purchase it makes good sense. Here is a category that totally exemplifies “buy the best you can” and if you are lucky you can find that perfect vintage designer handbag. Be sure you buy authentic pieces, talk with the dealers, train your eye, do your research and remember any vintage fashion is the perfect answer to sustainability!

Okay…let’s take a look at the origins of some of the most iconic designer handbags.

BONNIE CASHIN

I asked my friend, Stephanie Lake, to share some insight into Bonnie Cashin’s unique vision on handbags and here are her comments and photos. A million thanks, Stephanie, for sharing your detailed information and wonderful photos. A nenasnotes….I had the “Cashin-Carry” bag selected for me by none other than the Uber talented Bonnie Cashin…herself, lucky me!

All images courtesy the Bonnie Cashin Archive, photographed by Charles Lee for Bonnie Cashin: Chic is Where You Find It.

From Dr. Stephanie Lake, Bonnie Cashin’s heir, owner of her personal design archive, and the world’s foremost authority on Bonnie’s work:

“Bonnie’s foray in the handbag market forever changed the accessories industry. The tally of her fashion firsts in this category alone is jaw-dropping, and her impact in never-ending.”

“Her first handbag, referred to as a “Cashin-Carry,” was a soft leather sling bag available in a rainbow of leather and textile options, and introduced in 1955. It was her opening salvo to disrupting the accepted notion that women’s handbags were to be dainty, fussy, rigid and neutral.”

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags

“Bonnie further revolutionized the accessory industry when she introduced what Women’s Wear Daily referred to in 1962 as fashion’s “first snob tote,” ushering in the very new concept of the “it-bag.” These signature shopping bag totes were offered in three sizes, meant to be nestled one inside another, or worn “à trois” along the arm, equipping modern women on the go with the range of handbags needed for diverse activities throughout the day, outside of the home.”

“Her concept of carrying more than one bag is the point of origin for today’s commuter bag. Her belt-bags, too, introduced in the 1960s, unleashed generations of iterations on the concept, variously beloved or reviled as today’s “fanny packs” and “bum bags.”

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags

“Bonnie was the first to design handbags together with all of the coordinating accessories that a woman may need. “No one has attempted this before,” she remarked of the idea that wallets, coin purses, notebooks, eyeglass cases—and even flasks—should accompany each handbag design. The concept was so novel that retailers had to reconfigure their handbag departments to display her entire line together. Moreover, each accessory was designed as an adjunct to her clothing designs, thereby providing her clients a total “Cashin look” decades before fashion licensing would allow for this approach to become mainstream.”

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags

“Perhaps most staggering is Cashin’s introduction of the term and the concept of using “hardware,” in utilizing industrial closures for all categories of high fashion. The closures on her garment and accessory designs were adapted from industrial sources, meant to withstand wear, tear, and stress points, open with ease, and unfailingly provide the greatest security.”

“Her bold brass zippers were the same as those used in tents. Her hook and eye closures were adapted from equestrian tack and dog leashes. Most famously, her brass turn lock, which she used on all clothing and accessory designs from 1964 unto her retirement in 1985, was inspired by the hardware used to batten down the top of the convertible sports car that she drove through the Hollywood Hills each day as she commuted to work at Twentieth Century-Fox in the 1940s. Her single, brilliant, iconoclastic idea grew to become the fashion world’s most iconic closure, omnipresent and in constant use by untold brands and designers, including Coach, where she became their first-ever handbag designer in 1962.”

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags

STEPHANIE LAKE, Ph.D.
ONE-OF-A-KIND JEWELRY
http://www.StephanieLakeDesign.com
http://www.BonnieCashin.org


CHANEL

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags


The original quilted Chanel handbag was created in 1929, it was fashioned after soldier’s packs. In February 1955, the so called 2.55, the shoulder-carried bag debuted and totally changed handbag history. Coveted to this day, it comes in all colors, many skins and it is always on display in the Chanel seasonal presentations.  The “pocket” in the outside back of the bag is to hold money.  Always one of the top sellers in the Chanel boutiques and to be found at auction and, of course at RSM. Again be sure you are purchasing the authentic bag.  I have the good fortune to have both a black calfskin and a brown calfskin version in my wardrobe, plus a small black satin version, my go to for special occasions…they are treasures to me.


HERMÈS


Two of the most iconic and certainly the most collectible come to us from Hermès, the Birkin and the Kelly bags….let’s take a brief look into their beginnings and the two women who inspired their creations.

THE BIRKIN BAG

“In 1984, the English actress, Jane Birkin and Hermès, Jean-Louis Dumas meet ten thousand feet above the ground. The young mother laments that she cannot find a shopping bag big enough to carry her daughter Lou’s bottles. No sooner said than done, the empathetic, clever Monsieur Dumas designs a deep and supple holdall. It has distinguishing features such as a polished plaque, a swivel clasp, and, of course, the house’s signature saddle stitching. A legend is born.” From the Hermès website.

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags

Jane Birkin

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags

Celebrities with their Birkin bags

THE KELLY BAG

The Kelly bag, formerly known as Sac à dépêches when it was first designed in 1923, was chosen by Alfred Hitchcock in to be carried by Grace Kelly in the film To Catch A Thief 1955, with the wardrobe designed by Edith Head and filmed in Monaco where Kelly meet her future Prince. It became widely known when Kelly carried it to conceal her pregnancy.

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags

LOUIS VUITTON

Perhaps one of the most iconic and recognizable of all logos….the company was formed in 1854 and made luggage, beginning with stackable trunks, for royalty and the elite.

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags

Let’s look at the launch of some of the more collectible of the bags…

1930, the Keepall bag was introduced.

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags

1930s, the Alma bag was created by Gaston-Louis Vuitton. It is believed that it was originally made for Coco Chanel as a custom order. Originally, the bag was named ‘Champs of Elysees’ after the famous road in Paris. The original Alma was the creation of Gaston-Louis Vuitton, who named it for the Alma Bridge, a span that connects two Parisian neighborhoods.

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags

1932, LV introduced the Noé bag when a champagne house contacted LV to make a bag that would hold 6 bottles of champagne. The bag still serves this function – 4 bottles with the bottom down and the 5th inverted and nestled between the others. This drawstring bag comes in two sizes – the Noe, and the smaller Petit Noe. The name Noe is French for Noah, who was not only famous for loading animals on the Arc two by two, but for his ability to consume wine.

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags

1965, film star Audrey Hepburn made a special request to Louis Vuitton to make a mini version of their Keepall duffle just for her. Louis Vuitton obliged Audrey’s request and created what is now known by fashionista’s and handbag lovers as the “Speedy 25”. Now created in 25, 30, 35, and 40, as well as a Bandouliere style that includes a strap.” Taken from a timeline of Vuitton bags on YOOGI’S CLOSET website an excellent reference.

SPEEDY BAG

A nenasnote……I have two versions of what I call the roll bag, actually the Papillon bag…and one is a signed piece….shall I share a naughty Nena story, okay, I will. Full disclosure……Many, many years ago I was attending a Chicago Bears game (I’m a life long fan!) with some friends. I was stopped by the usher (before we had the security we have now) and he asked “ Do you have beer in that bag?” My response was “Do I look like I have beer in my bag??!! He said no and in we went….the end of this story, six cans of beer fit perfectly…need I say more!!!!

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags

“In 1997, Marc Jacobs became the company’s artistic director, introduced first RTW line and introduced the Vernis collection. Marc Jacobs brought a much needed youthful spirit to LV and spurred collaborations with famous artists: In 2001, Stephen Sprouse created the Graffiti and Roses lines; in 2003, Takashi Murakami created the Monogram Multicolore and Cherry Blossom lines; in 2008, artist Richard Prince created the Aquarelle, or more commonly known as the Watercolor Speedy. A reinterpretation of the iconic bag, this style features the classic Monogram pattern with a smudged painted fashion. There are 17 paint colors that are used in the smudging of this Speedy. These were released in white and brown. In 2012, Yayoi Kusama created “Infinitely Kusama” collection. Additionally, Marc Jacobs also introduced LV to collaborating with numerous street artists.” From YOOGI’S CLOSET website

Vuitton features limited editions each year….here are some from the Marc Jacobs collaborations.

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags

What to do with your Louis Vuitton bag collection…..just a thought!!!!!

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags

Books for more researching…

Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags
Randolph Street Market Vintage Designer Handbags

With the exception of the Bonnie Cashin images, all photos found on Pinterest no photo credits available.

MY BLOG POST REPRINTED, WITH PERMISSION, FROM THE RANDOLPH STREET MARKET BLOG

Always Classic, Always New…Costume Jewelry (Part 2) Eisenberg…

Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market

Chicago has had a long history of Internationally recognized design, one such company is Eisenberg. The original company, Eisenberg & Sons, Inc. was formed in 1914 as a women’s clothing and perfume company. In the late 1930’s the jewelry was made to enhance the dresses as pins and soon the brilliant rhinestone pieces outshone the garments themselves. An interesting marketing ploy became an industry star. The Eisenberg Jewelry, Inc. was officially launched in 1940.

Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market

Only the highest quality of metals, plating, and brilliant Swarovski Austrian crystal rhinestones were used in the construction of the jewelry.

Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market

From Bel Air Jewelry at Randolph Street Market. Photo taken by Nena Ivon.

I particularly love the Christmas tree pins, perfect for gift giving or adding to your own collection. Stay tuned for a Christmas Tree Pin post!

Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market

Eisenberg did many ads to promote their special pieces. I think these show the various eras with the model’s hair, makeup etc….but the jewelry is definitely timeless.

Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market

When I started in the fashion industry Eisenberg Ice was the jewelry to own and was quite recognizable. Many of the pieces were not marked and have had many incarnations (a post unto itself!)…as always when collecting do your research for authenticity, work with reputable dealers is always a must.

Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market

Bows were huge….they are my favorites….

Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market

A few more examples too whet your appetite….

Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market

A book to aid your research and collecting, of course…

Costume Jewelry Eisenberg Randolph Street Market

I have concentrated on pins/brooches in this post, there are many other examples of Eisenberg pieces…I think you can understand why, when the pieces were afixed to the ready-to-wear garments, many went missing and a new company was born, lucky for us who collect vintage jewelry!!!!!

All photos, unless otherwise noted, found on Pinterest, photo credits unknown.

Reprinted with permission from Randolph Street Market.

Always Classic, Always New: Costume Jewelry, Part 1…Miriam Haskell

I have always been a huge fan of vintage jewelry…especially Victorian pieces but became interested in the beauty and uniqueness of Miriam Haskell’s creativity many years ago and, in fact, owned many examples. Just in time for the Holidays a look at this easy to recognize brand. The iconic pieces are extremely varied and the photo above exemplifies, in my opinion, the Haskell look, pearls, gold and a few sparkles!

Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market

A bit of the history of the house of Haskell…

Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market

Miriam Haskell was born in Tell City, Indiana and attended the University of Chicago. She established her jewelry business in New York in 1926, following the lead of Gabrielle Chanel who spearheaded “faux bijoux” and was an instant success with the social set.

Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market

Miriam Haskell opened her first boutique in 1926, “le bijou de l’heure” in a New York City Hotel.

She was not a designer herself, the designs were done by Frank Hess from 1926-1960 when Robert F. Clark became head designer. The pieces were rarely signed and finding a piece from pre-1950’s is one you would want to add to your collection. The jewelry was thought to be the only American competition to Chanel and Schiaparelli.

Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market

It was highly collected by Joan Crawford, who owned a huge collection.

Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market

As well as Lucille Ball (who wore pieces on I Love Lucy!) and many other celebrities.

Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market

The forties and fifties pieces are the most desirable and not easy to find.

Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market

Michelle Obama wearing vintage Haskell earrings.

From a 2009 article in W Magazine:
“For the uninitiated, Miriam Haskell was a premier American fashion jewelry house for the better part of the 20th century; today it is a prized resource for vintage collectors, who snap up its baubles for upwards of $3,000. Which is to say that it has the kind of reputation and heritage prime for revival—though such wasn’t the case about 20 years ago, when the firm changed hands. “When we bought the company, it was virtually out of business,” says Gabrielle Fialkoff, chief operations officer of Miriam Haskell. Her father, Frank Fialkoff, purchased the label under the parent company Haskell Jewels in 1990, just in time for minimalism to send a hush over costume jewelry. “It wasn’t a jewelry moment, so we just got quiet, feeling that the time would be right in the future,” says Fialkoff. Buoyed by the hot trend in bold statement pieces that started with Lanvin in 2003—and continues today with Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, and the Tom Binnses and Philip Crangis of the world—Miriam Haskell relaunched in fall 2007, and Henri Bendel was happy to re-engage the brand. As Bendel’s fashion director, Ann Watson, puts it, ‘Coco Chanel is the foremother of costume jewelry in Europe, and Miriam Haskell is the foremother of costume jewelry for Americans.’”

Charles James inspired collection…

Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market

Here are a few examples of the hundreds of pieces created…

Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market

The variety is endless and takes the form of necklaces, brooches, earrings and bracelets.

A couple of books for your reference…

Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market
Costume Jewelry Randolph Street Market

All photos found on Pinterest photo credits unknown.

FIRST APPEARED AS THE FASHION TREND REPORT EXCLUSIVELY FOR RANDOLPH STREET MARKET BLOG REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION.

COLLECTIONS: Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware

COLLECTIBLES EXCLUSIVELY FOR RANDOLPH STREET MARKET BY NENA IVON, REPOSTED WITH PERMISSION

n 1863 President Lincoln proclaimed the fourth Thursday of November the nation’s official Thanksgiving Day. By the 1870s, America’s middle class celebrated the occasion with fine Thanksgiving china and turned to the English for delectable transferware patterns depicting the holiday’s bird of choice, the turkey — and their popularity continues to this day. At the time UK was having economic difficulties and knew the States gobbled up (pun intended) their special transferware so why not do stunning platters to celebrate this annual tradition. Our celebrations will be done with smaller groups and social distancing this year, but, in my opinion, our traditions are more important than ever.

Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware

Norman Rockwell’s “Freedom From Want” 1943. You can be sure this iconic painting’s star of the feast is presented on a treasured turkey platter.

When collecting look for vintage Spode, Wedgwood, Johnson Bros., Staffordshire, and others. As always, when collecting anything authentic, check labels, bottom of China, etc. and engage each dealer in conversation and absorb their expertise, alone worth the trip. In addition, don’t limit your search of “time specific” items to that month seek out treasures year round.

Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware

I thought it would be appropriate to continue our transferware journey with this fun collectible. Lots and lots of colors and styles many newer pieces are not transferware at all. Let’s look at some pieces and, of course, how they can be used in decor.

Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware

Not all feature the star of the feast… Tom Turkey… many feature autumnal themes such as the Horn of Plenty.

Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware

I want this for my green transferware collection and I don’t even do Thanksgiving at my home!

Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware

Gorgeous I think for any roast, don’t you agree!!

Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware

Or a winter scene.

Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware

But mostly turkeys…

Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware
Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware

Obsessed with this set…

Some modern pieces…

Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware
Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware
Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware

Some decor suggestions…

Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware
Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware
Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware
Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware
Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware
Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware
Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware
Turkey Platters and Thanksgiving Dinnerware

My absolute favorite stuffing, beyond delicious! Here is the recipe in its original form…you can see by its age it has been much loved! Since I no longer host Thanksgiving dinner, I do, however, help prepare the feast every year, we don’t do my dressing. We include my Hot Carrot Mold on the extensive menu, it has become part of the tradition.

Always loosely stuff your bird at both ends. You can cook separately, but I always stuff my bird. This will do up to a 15lb Turkey.

All photos found on Pinterest photo credits unknown.