Who says you can’t be sexy at 51….obviously Mary J. Blige blew that theory away at this year’s spectacular Super Bowl half time show. Her performance dynamic and the costume….ah yes that outfit! I’m obsessed with the boots! Guess what the designer, Peter Dundas is this year’s The Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum Designer of Excellence! The event is Wednesday, May 4 at The Langham, Chicago. Mark your calendar now…it’s sure to be a sold out event. Stay tuned for more details…..
To celebrate Black History Month….in fact every month, I wanted to share some books by and about Black fashion designers and other Black fashion/beauty/lifestyle influencers. I’m very happy to say it is a long list and I’m sure I’m only scratching the surface. In today’s post I’m going to feature two of the fashion designers. This is a diverse group of creators and they span three centuries. At a time when we seem to be in a “cancel culture” mode I want to upset that notion….I am a FIRM believer that we must know history….the good, the bad, the ugly….to understand our world, how to not make the same mistakes, how to grow and improve…and how to maintain the positive! I can’t even comprehend the absurdity of banning books…talk about going backward, how can we learn without all opinions! Okay, I’ll get off my soapbox…my blog has and will continue to be a safe zone from the politics of the day.
Here we go….I’m going to begin with the first Black designer of note, Elizabeth Keckley, dressmaker to Mary Todd Lincoln and Washington DC socialites. Her story is beyond fascinating, born into slavery she bought her freedom through her dressmaking…extraordinary. There are several books about her, an autobiography, a biography and several novels, I would suggest all of them. Here is a story that needs to be absorbed and, in my opinion is as important as the beginning of Haute Couture and Charles Worth. What makes that a comparison is the period of time when they were creating. Everyone knows about The House of Worth…in my humble opinion, now is the time, long over due, to shine the spotlight on Elizabeth Keckley! An amazing grouping of books, I’m sure you agree…all worthy of additions to your fashion library.
Next, let’s explore the relatively unknown creator of Jacqueline Bouvier’s gown when she married Jack Kennedy, Ann Cole Lowe! Lowe not only produced an extraordinary bridal gown (under the patronage of Joseph Kennedy!) but the gowns for the entire wedding party. Already a known designer for New York and Washington movers and shakers….Ann Lowe was not credited for these gowns! I am featuring two books, the only two I could find, keep you eyes out for a novel to be published on June 22, 2022, the last image
I featured a book by Petra Slinkard in my monthly nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club….both these designers are highlighted in this extraordinary book…another to add to your library
Stay tuned for Part 2 of my Books…Books…Books: Black Fashion Designer Books posts next week. Lots more to explore.
I am pleased to introduce you to a true legend in the design world, Steven Stolman, who will be discussing the book he co-authored with John Kurdewan, Bill Cunningham’s right hand man at the New York Times. The book BILL CUNNINGHAM WAS THERE SRING FLINGS +SUMMER SOIRÉES, along with Steven, will be the subject of an upcoming Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum event on Wednesday, March 16th (I’m doing a separate post on the invitation details and a brief review of the book later today!)….the book is a must have in your fashion/lifestyle library. It’s a stunner. Steven, thank you so much for letting us have a glimpse into your life.
Steven and husband, Rich Wilkie
I asked Steven to respond to my questionnaire, I know you will enjoy his answers….here you go
WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB
If you mean first ever, it would have been an ice cream scooper at Baskin-Robbins in West Hartford, CT. If you mean after college, it would have been as a PR lacky at Albert Nipon on Seventh Avenue in NYC.
BRIEFLY DESCRIBE YOUR MOST RECENT OCCUPATION
After stepping down as president of Scalamandré, the renowned textiles house, I went out on my own as a freelance PR and marketing consultant, specific to the design world.
WHEN DID YOU DISCOVER THE FIRST IMPRESSION OF YOUR TALENT
I could always draw. In junior high school, I was lucky enough to have an art teacher who recognized that and nurtured it.
WHEN DID YOU KNOW YOU HAD “MADE IT” EXPLAIN
Being inducted into the CFDA, the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and being invited to The White House as a member of the organization.
HOW YOUR ORIGINAL PASSION BROUGHT YOU TO WHERE YOU ARE NOW
I have always been a strong designer and wordsmith. It’s just what I do- and something I do pretty much everyday.
WHAT WOULD HAVE BEEN YOUR ALTERNATE CHOICE AS A CAREER….WAS THERE ONE
Definitely a journalist.
YOUR FAVORITE BOOK,
Dominick Dunne’s “The Way We Lived Then”
MOVIE,
“Indiscreet” with Ingrid Bergman and Cary Grant
FAVORITE FORM OF THEATER
Definitely Broadway musicals, and specifically Stephen Sondheim’s “Company”
TYPE OF MUSIC YOU LIKE TO LISTEN TO
Broadway musicals
FAVORITE LOCAL RESTAURANT
Gibson’s
FAVORITE WORK OF PUBLIC ART
I view the John Hancock building as a public work of art. For my entire life, it has defined Chicago.
HOBBIES….
They don’t call me the Serial Entertainer for nothing. During normal times, I am a relentless host. It runs in my family.
YOUR HOME….MODERN, TRADITIONAL, ANTIQUES (WHAT ERA) ECLECTIC DESCRIBE
Always a mix. The great Bunny Williams says that a great room should be like a salad- a little bit of this, a little bit of that. Otherwise, it looks like a showroom.
WHO WOULD YOU HAVE AT YOUR FANTASY DINNER (LIVING OR DEAD AND BE SURE TO INCLUDE YOURSELF!) AND WHAT WOULD YOU SERVE (10-12 GUESTS)
I just don’t think that way. I have a lot of friends who rhapsodize about legendary individuals, but I don’t. My fantasy (and reality) would be to be at a dinner with the people I love.
FAVORITE VACATION SPOT VISITED AND/OR ON YOUR GO TO LIST (HERE IS A CHANCE TO TALK ABOUT WHERE TO GO AND WHAT TO DO!)
London. Always London. For me, it’s exhilarating- walking through Fortnum & Mason- one of my earliest European memories- having Welsh Rarebit for lunch somewhere- and sitting at the bar at Scott’s in Mayfair for dinner. That’s my happy place.
WHAT DO YOU ENJOY DOING MOST IN YOUR FREE TIME?
At this point, the lines between work and leisure have been blurred. I do love writing, which I do for both work and pleasure. The same with cooking- if it’s for people that I love. My “zone” is setting the table. That’s also something I inherited from my family. My mom, especially, took such pride in setting a beautiful table. The simple act of doing it gives me great comfort.
HOW WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE REMEMBERED
As a mensch.
INCLUDE A FAVORITE (OR TWO) RECIPE
PHOTO FROM FROM THE NEW YORK TIMES (a nenasnotes if you don’t subscribe to the New York Times Cooking newsletter and recipes do so NOW!)
“This is a recipe I picked up from Steven Stolman, a clothing and interior designer whose “Confessions of a Serial Entertainer” is a useful guide to the business and culture of dinner parties and general hospitality. It is a perfect dinner-party meal: chicken thighs or legs dusted in flour and roasted with shallots, lemons and garlic in a bath of vermouth and under a shower of herbes de Provence. They go crisp in the heat above the fat, while the shallots and garlic melt into sweetness below. You could serve with rice, but I prefer a green salad and a lot of baguette to mop up the sauce. — Sam Sifton”
I also make a mean vinaigrette, which baffles me because it is so basic. But people freak every time I serve it.
VINAIGRETTE
1 big spoonful of Dijon mustard
1 small finely chopped shallot
1 splash of cider vinegar
1 pinch coarse salt
A few grinds of black pepper
Extra virgin olive oil
Combine all ingredients EXCEPT the olive oil in a coffee mug. Blend thoroughly with a fork.
Then, slowly drizzle in olive oil while whisking with a fork until creamy and emulsified. Taste for balance. You don’t want it too sharp or too oily. If you can’t determine that, you should not be cooking.
Toss with a few heads of freshly washed and thoroughly dried Boston lettuce. Add a final bit f salt and pepper and toss again. Pile high on pretty salad plates. That’s it.
FAVORITE LINKS YOU WANT ME TO INCLUDE
The Instagram accounts that I find inspiring are:
Bunnys_eye (Interior designer Bunny Williams)
Douglasfriedman (Interiors photographer Douglas Friedman)
BLOGS YOU FOLLOW
My sister Stacey’s blog! She’s a professional chef and food stylist with her own studio kitchen in South Portland, ME.
Don’t we all miss the wonderful Bill Cunningham photos that appeared in The New York Times…I say, yes, yes we do! Not only was he there but on his trusty bicycle, he was everywhere! Over the years he chronicled the Who’s Who of fashion and society like no one else. A new book takes us inside these photos. And lucky us we can join the Costume Council when they welcome co-author Steven Stolman at a very special program on Wednesday, March 16th.
CO-AUTHORS, STEVEN STOLMAN AND JOHN KURDEWAN PHOTOGRAPHED BY BILL CUNNINGHAM
I just did a post to introduce you to Steven Stolman, please check it out. The co-author, John Kurdewan, Bill’s right hand man and a person who knew him best, was at his side when laying out those pages that drew us to the Style section of the New York Times each Sunday. One of the things I like about the book…..well several things…are the quotes from Bill, never one to mince words or thoughts….brilliant! In addition there are essays by Stolman and Kurdewan and the brilliant forward by the extraordinary artist Ruben Toledo.
BILL AND JOHN AT WORK
Do we need yet another book on the uber talented Bill Cunningham, seeing this book…the answer, is again, a resounding yes, yes, we do! Full color photos, I really didn’t realize he did so much in color and I followed him like I was in a cult! He chronicled not only the social functions but street fashion and current and upcoming trends without regard to where it was coming from. Of course, he covered all the fashion weeks as well as Haute Couture. His was a totally original eye! The book is divided into categories each begins with a quote from Bill. He indeed had a eye like no one else and when he saw a color, a silhouette, a pattern more than once he would see what else was out there with those themes….brilliant. He saw tends before they became trends. He seemed to be everywhere in New York on his bicycle and in his blue Frenchman’s work top. I had the wonderful experience of working with him for Fashion Group events when he was designing millinery as well as spending time, off camera, visiting New York’s museums and landmarks and enjoy his running commentary on everything that interested him…..good times!
A quote from Bill in the book…”I let the street talk to me. I try to find what’s honestly there….I just enjoy life and enjoy what I do”. Bill Cunningham, July 19, 2015
The invitation…details of this special Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum event…book now…it’s an event you won’t wait to miss!
Please note date change:
March 16, 2022 Woman’s Athletic Club of Chicago 626 Michigan Ave, Chicago, IL 60611
VIP and general receptions 5:30 p.m. Program 6:30 p.m. Wine & hors d’oeuvre will be served
Join the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum for a presentation on the book Bill Cunningham Was There by its authors. The five-star book follows the famed New York Times photographer who chronicled society and fashion with his images of the vibrant events of spring and summer. Guests will enjoy a presentation by the one of the book’s coauthors: Steven Stolman, design and entertaining icon.
Sponsors and Costume Council Patron members are invited to attend a VIP meet-and-greet book signing with the authors preceding the event.
Reservations are limited, so don’t hesitate to purchase your ticket!
Due to Covid, this event has been postponed to Wednesday, March 16.Purchase Tickets
Proper attire required; athletic apparel and denim are not permitted.
Event attendees are welcome to purchase additional signed books for $40 apiece. If you wish to do so, please contact Nell McKeown at mckeown@chicagohistory.org or 703-403-1482.
The Chicago History Museum and Woman’s Athletic Club of Chicago are following all state and local Covid-19 guidelines. Masks will be required when not eating or drinking. Learn more about the Museum’s safety policies and procedures.
I have asked my friends to share their favorite local spots and started a series of Independent neighborhood businesses a couple of weeks ago and since tomorrow is Small Business Saturday I wanted to continue that theme today with my neighborhood. There is a tiny district on the Near North Side of Chicago called Streeterville, I’m going to concentrate on the area which sits just East of The Magnificent Mile. Let’s look at its “folkloric” history…it’s quite a story!
An article published in The Chicago Tribune in 1988. “Streeterville is now a posh lakefront area bounded by Lake Michigan to the north and east and, roughly, Rush Street to the west and the Chicago River to the south. But 100 years ago, it was a wasteland that gave rise to pitched battles and legal skirmishes between the authorities and the eccentric man who gave it his name, “Cap” George Wellington Streeter. Streeter served a spell in the Civil War before embarking on a colorful career as showman, circus promoter and Mississippi steamboat operator. Coming to Chicago in July, 1886, he bought a rickety old schooner, called it the Reutan and made frequent excursion trips between the city and Milwaukee. During one of those trips, a fierce storm led his passengers to take the train instead of the Reutan back to Chicago, leaving Streeter; his wife, Maria; and several crew members to sail on through the storm until, late at night, the boat ran aground just north of Chicago Avenue. At daybreak, the captain found himself on a sandy, barren stretch of shore land. Judging it to be an ideal place, he and his wife decided to stay put, making their stranded boat their home and receiving permission from N. Kellogg Fairbank, the wealthy businessman who owned the land, to remain there until their boat was fixed. At what is now the Northwestern University downtown campus, Streeter built a shack, named the surrounding area the “Deestrict of Lake Michigan” and, from an office he opened in the Tremont Hotel at the corner of Lake and Dearborn Streets, sold parcels of it to gullible buyers. The area, he said, owed allegiance only to the federal government, basing his claim on an 1821 military survey, squatters’ rights and some dubious documents allegedly signed by President Grover Cleveland. Offended by Streeter’s shabby shack and his land-grabbing scheme, his lakeshore neighbors began to take steps to get him out of potentially valuable lakefront property. In July of 1888 five constables came with an eviction order but were driven off at gunpoint. The next month several officers in a surprise visit caught the rifle-toting Streeter off guard. “Now we gotcha,” said one officer triumphantly. But just as they were about to lead him away, Maria emerged and threw boiling water from a kettle at the bluecoats. Streeter then grabbed his rifle and sent the lawmen fleeing. Another time, Streeter’s self-appointed “military governor,” William Niles, fired several shots at the buggy of a police captain. The next day a contingent of 500 officers came to arrest the old man once and for all, but the officers were met by an “army” of hobos and squatters who tried to repel the attack with rocks, stones and clubs. Streeter was eventually arrested, but he was released the following day because, according to historian Emmett Dedmon, firing at a police officer was not then considered a crime. Two years later Streeter was found guilty of killing John Kirk, a night watchman, for allegedly trespassing. After serving his nine-month sentence in the Joliet penitentiary, he went right back to his shanty, and the struggle to evict him began all over again. By then Streeter’s Deestrict had become a favorite watering hole for a number of Chicagoans seeking to quench their thirst with booze supplied from his shack – even on Sundays. Invoking Sunday closing laws, Mayor Bill Thompson ordered a raid that ended up with the police seizing hundreds of beer bottles and burning the shack to the ground. “This here is an outrage,” said Streeter. “It’s worse than the Kaiser ever did. I’ll have the law on ’em.” Streeter then turned to the courts to win legal recognition of his claims to his Deestrict, continuing his struggle until he died of pneumonia, at age 84, on January 24, 1921. Picking up the fight, his second wife, Elma (Marie died in 1903), in 1924 filed a claim of a billion dollars against 1,500 lakeshore property owners for the loss of what by then had become known as Streeterville. By the time she died in 1936, many other Streeter heirs had also submitted their own claims. Not until 1940 did Streeter’s fight finally end when the last of the claims were dismissed in federal court.” from Chicago Tribune Magazine, “Way We Were” section, Dec. 18, 1988, by June Sawyers
I have always loved this story! Now within this unique part of Chicago are many landmarks but also small shops, restaurants, a local library in the historic Water Works which also houses The Lookingglass Theater, https://www.lookingglasstheater.org which is now presenting HER HONOR JANE BYRNE. Take a stroll through Seneca Park and Eli M. Schulman Playground, just renovated, visit the unique gift shop at The Museum of Contemporary Art, and the SOAR Farmer’s Market every Tuesday from May through October….the list goes on and on…..
An interesting stop I wanted to feature today is SPACE 519 and THE LUNCHROOM, located at 200 East Chestnut Street. There is always something exciting going on in this carefully curated store featuring the newest trends in women’s clothing and accessories, a green apothecary, unique home goods, books, and fabulous gifts. The owners, Lance Lawson and Jim Wetzel, partners in business and life, know exactly what works for their clientele and share their taste perfectly with them. A personal touch is essential to Lance and Jim and is obvious in their expertly trained staff. A true specialty shop, based on European-style boutiques, the gentleman travel the globe to find exclusive items to share with their loyal followers. There is always something special happening, personal appearances by designers, book signings and other special events many exclusive to the shop. Add to the mix the extraordinary, charming 40 seat restaurant, THE LUNCHROOM, it is THE place to see and be seen for, breakfast, lunch and brunch or plan a special get together. The wine list, another carefully curated collection, is also noteworthy (my favorite the Sancerre, yum!). The menu features locally sourced ingredients, vegetable based and is California style…the bakery goods are extraordinary. THE LUNCHBOX was added during the Pandemic and continues for grab and go items. One of my favorites featured on the menu is the Pimento Cheese Spread, featured below. And did I mention the always abundant florals….exquisite.
And, of course, one of my favorite gifts, to me very personal, is a gift card. https://www.space519.com
Please support your local independent businesses throughout the year, now more than ever they need us and we need their creativity, their exclusives, their personal attention and service. It’s a great way to keep our City (and Cities throughout the States) vibrant and, obviously, in business…let’s not lose the individuality of these stores, restaurants, booksellers and charming, sometimes hidden, gems of our wonderful neighborhoods!
A reminder this is not a sponsored post, I don’t have sponsors.