ANATOMY OF AN AUCTION PART 4: MAUREEN DWYER SMITH’S DIVERSE AND EXTENSIVE COLLECTION OF COUTURE CLOTHING AND HANDBAGS!

MAUREEN DWYER SMITH

By now you know I love doing posts of upcoming auctions….it is a first, I believe, for me to feature some highlights from a huge major collection by a collector of such distinctive designers… but also worn by a major Chicagoan and someone I knew and worked with on events. How fun! I’m very excited to be able to give you an exclusive peak into this true fashion collector’s wardrobe in a once in a lifetime opportunity to add some of these collectibles to your own wardrobe! Bidding begins on Friday, August 29, 2025. Bid soon and often! http://www.hindmanauctions.com

Here is a brief bio of Maureen Dwyer Smith…

“Maureen served as Chair of the Board of the Joffrey Ballet, where she also founded its Women’s Board. Her leadership was widely credited with helping to establish a sound financial and managerial foundation for the Joffrey.” (a nenasnote….I produced many events to benefit the Joffrey, as you know one of my beloved institutions, while I was at Saks Fifth Avenue, Chicago…under the guidence of the dynamic Ms. Smith!)

“Maureen’s dedication to the arts and education extended to numerous other institutions. She was a Trustee of the Field Museum, the Chicago Public Library Foundation, the Museum of Contemporary Art, and After School Matters. She also co-authored 100 Masterpieces, the Art Institute of Chicago’s centennial publication. Additionally, she served on the Women’s Boards of the Field Museum, the Art Institute, Rush University Medical Center, Northwestern University, the Alliance Française, the Goodman Theatre, the Lincoln Park Zoo, and the Shirley Ryan Ability Lab. Her commitment to civic engagement earned her shared awards from the Harvard Club of Chicago and DePaul University.”

I thought it would be interesting to include some of the designers .featured in the auction at work on their creations….I paraphrase Bette Davis….”fashion” your seat belts you are in for an incredible ride…

Let’s start with the wonderful world of CHANEL designed by the extraordinary talent of Karl Lagerfeld…here a VERY small sampling of what is in the auction as collected by a fashion connoisseur…

KARL LAGERFELD SHARING ONE OF HIS SKETCHES
EMILIO PUCCI
One of his exquisitely beaded pieces

And more……

ZANDRA RHODES…A FAVORITE DESIGNER OF PHILIP MILLER WHEN HE HEADED MARSHALL FIELD’S SHE CAME TO CHICAGO OFTEN WITH HER UNIQUE CREATIONS
RALPH RUCCI AT WORK… HIS CREATIONS ARE MASTERPIECES OF CREATIVITY AND WORKMANSHIP





JUDITH LEIBER
TOMATO MINAUDIÈRE
EGGPLANT MINAUDIÈRE
TULIP MINAUDIÈRE

A SELECTION OF NANCY GONZALES BAGS

Here is a quote I wanted to share with you…

Freeman’s | Hindman is proud to present The Couture Collection of Maureen Dwyer Smith, an esteemed Chicago civic leader and philanthropist. This remarkable collection showcases garments by iconic designers such as Ralph Rucci, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, and Emilio Pucci, alongside coveted handbags by Chanel, Judith Leiber, and Hermès.Select pieces from Mrs. Smith’s refined wardrobe curated with both elegance and practicality in mind will be featured across three luxury auctions: Fall FashionHoliday Lux, and The Holiday Edit. More than a style icon, Maureen Dwyer Smith was a dedicated patron of the arts, founder of the Joffrey Ballet Women’s Board, and a beloved figure in Chicago’s cultural and philanthropic circles.”

Tanner C. Branson, Associate Vice President, Head of Department: Luxury Handbags & Couture…FREEMAN’S | HINDMAN

Here are the dates for the upcoming auctions…

Fall Fashion – September 12th

The Holiday Edit – November 18th

Holiday Lux – December 5th

http://www.hindmanauctions.com

HAPPENINGS: THE ANATOMY OF AN AUCTION PART 3…CENTER STAGE: THE LAURA PELS COLLECTIONS ACT III, LUXURY HANDBAGS AND COUTURE

LAURA PELS

I’m beyond thrilled to have been given the opportunity to share yet another very exciting upcoming Freeman’s|Hindman auction with all of you. It is an exclusive especially for nenasnotes! This amazing philanthropist’s story is an extraordinary one and is seen through her love of art, theater and her innate sense of style. I am totally intrigued with her and her story…I know you will be as well.

Read more about this unique personality I’d like to direct you to her New York Times Obituary

https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.nytimes.com/2023/05/05/theater/laura-pels-dead.html&sa=U&sqi=2&ved=2ahUKEwj57u69uraGAxVdrokEHdgbD8EQFnoECBgQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1REZeUGjR0lgjE3kgD2Q3c

About Laura Pels…

Laura Pels Bio 

“Property from the Collection of Laura Pels, River House, New York

Laura Pels was a philanthropist and devoted supporter of the dramatic arts, founding the Laura Pels International Foundation for Theater, an organization that underwrote productions for a myriad of nonprofit theater groups as well as playwrights such as Harold Pinter and Arthur Miller, amongst many others. 

Born in Saint-Vivien-de-Monségur, a village near Bordeaux, France, in 1931, Josette Jeanne Berrnard studied mime and acting in Paris as a young woman. In her twenties, she decided to change her name to Laura and by the age of 25 had moved to London to study English. Following her first marriage to Adolphe Meeus, she made the transatlantic move to New York which would remain her home until her passing last year. 

She married communications executive, Mr. Pels, in 1965 who invested heavily in cellular communications during the 1980s. Following a business deal in 1989, where McCaw cellular bought a controlling interest in Pels’ firm, Ms. Pels and her husband made a significant donation to support the founding of the National Actors Theater by actor Tony Randall. Its mission was to present affordable shows by playwrights such as Ibsen, Chekov and Miller. Ms. Pels became the leader of the foundation upon her divorce in 1993 and funded projects at esteemed theaters such as the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, Washington, and provided grants to talented students at the Julliard School and the Tisch School of the Arts at New York University.

Ms. Pels retained strong ties to France throughout her life: she rented an apartment in Paris and was involved with Le Théâtre de L’Atelier in Montmatre. Her peerless taste is reflected in this beautiful collection of jewelry which includes works by renowned and timeless French makers such as Cartier and Boucheron, alongside more avant-garde pieces including works designed by artist Jean Cocteau. Couture, fine and decorative arts from the River House apartment of Ms. Pels will be offered in a sequence of sales at Freeman’s I Hindman in New York and online this Spring.”

LAURA PELS

About the auction…

“Center Stage: The Laua Pels Collections | Act III | Luxury Handbags and Couture – includes a significant collection of Pierre Cardin Haute Couture, Geoffrey Beene and Chanel ready-to-wear. In addition to over 40 Chanel handbags and a large collection of Hermès scarves. Ms. Pels love and deep appreciation for French culture is evident in her couture collection – many of her pieces were purchased in Paris and New York directly from the designers and custom tailored for her, she meticulously selected pieces that would complement her jewelry collection (sold by Freeman’s | Hindman earlier this month in our Important Jewelry Sale) and her art collection. Ms. Pels was a close friend of famed artist Françoise Gilot – her River House home was filled with works by the artist, one can easily see that Ms. Pels took inspiration from the work of Gilot when it came to her own sense of style – many of the colors that Gilot favored are predominant in Ms. Pels wardrobe, she also wore pieces from Gilot’s daughter Paloma Picasso, a selection of those pieces are included in the sale. Ms. Pels also admired the work of J. Mendel the sale includes many exquisite furs by the famed furrier, many were custom created for Ms. Pels. It is rare to see a collection as complete as this one come to the market, from day one I realized how special this couture collection was an am thrilled to be bringing it to the auction block through Freeman’s | Hindman in June.” Quote from Tanner Branson, Head of Sale, Luxury Handbags & Couture. Freeman’s | Hindman

FROM THE COLLECTION OF 202 Garment lots, 44 Chanel handbag lots, 299 lots total.

A COLLECTION OF CHANEL CAMELLIAS
Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche quilted cape and
Pierre Cardin Haute Couture gown
TANNER BRANSON PREPPING VYES SAINT LAURENT CAPE
Chanel
Chanel
Pierre Cardin
Geoffrey Beene
Geoffrey Beene gown, Rafael Sanchez for Geoffrey Beene red lacquered handbag and Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche cape
Carolyne Roehm coat
GEOFFREY BEENE COSTUME
Some of the Collection of Chanel bags

FROM THE PRESS RELEASE

“The couture collection of Laura Pels features runway pieces from Karl Lagerfeld’s collections for Chanel, Pierre Cardin Haute Couture from the 1980-90s, and an important collection of Geoffrey Beene. Many of the pieces were custom-made for Ms. Pels’ specifications. The collection also features forty plus Chanel handbags. Much like the art and jewelry collections of Ms. Pels, her couture reflects her deep appreciation for French culture.”

SALE INFORMATION 

Center Stage: The Laua Pels Collections | Act lll: Luxury Handbags and Couture

Sale Date: June 25th  

Sale Publication Date: June 11th

Preview Dates: June 20th, 21st and June 24th – by appointment only, please contacttannerbranson@hindmanauctions.com to schedule an appointment.

For more information go to the link below.

https://hindmanauctions.com/auctions/2091-Center-Stage-Luxury-Handbags-and-Couture-from-The-Laura-Pels-Collection

HAPPENINGS….THE ANATOMY OF AN AUCTION

Givenchy Nouvelle Boutique Ensemble, 1970s , LOT 240
Sybil Connolly Black Dress, 1970s, Property from the Collection of Kay Krehbiel , LOT 113
Carolina Herrera Jacket Worn by Nena Ivon, c. 2007, LOT 91

I am having a fascinating adventure, I have a garment in the upcoming Hindman Fall Fashion auction on October 3rd! It’s my first auction…I’ve sold garments in the past with local resale stores and most of my special pieces are either in the Costume Collection of the Chicago History Museum or in the Fashion Study Collection at Columbia College Chicago. I asked Tanner Branson, the newly appointed Specialist, Head of Sale, Luxury Handbags & Couture and this is his first auction… (more on him later in this post) to look at the piece I thought would be a good fit to see if there was any interest in putting it in the sale. I got an immediate yes!

From that moment on learned the procedures of an auction….terms of the sale, contracts to be read and signed, confirmations sent via email. I also reviewed the description of the garment along with my brief bio…all that was left was to see the online catalog which went “live” this week….now on to the bidding…fingers crossed!

Here is the Carolina Herrera garment I wore for Mrs. Herrera’s appearance at Saks Fifth Avenue Chicago in 2007. It is quite the stunner and I only wore it that one time. Why in the world, you might ask, did I make the decision to send my fabulous piece to auction, quite simple, I no longer lead the lifestyle of going to charity luncheons, glamorous cocktail events, opening nights…well you get the picture! Having it hang in my closet when someone else can enjoy it…why not. I’ll have to do a good rummage to see what else might be of interest!

Here I am with Mrs. Herrera when she was being honored by the Fashion Group International, Chicago, many years ago. Love her, I always found working with her to be a dream. Photo from my collection.

Here is the link and a description of the auction…

https://hindmanauctions.com/auctions/1218-Fall-Fashion-Accessories

“Hindman’s Fall Fashion auction on October 3rd features over 250 lots of high fashion and luxury handbags from leading houses including Hermès, Chanel, and Louis Vuitton amongst others. Headlining the auction are three exceptional Hermès handbags, a Birkin 30 in ostrich, a Birkin 35 in Clemence calfskin, and a Kelly 28. The auction has a powerful collection of Hermès including a Snakes & Ladders game from 2013. Also featuring property from the personal wardrobe of Kay Krehbiel, the collection contains accessories by Judith Leiber and Hermès and a rare gown designed by Irish fashion designer Sybil Connolly. In addition, the auction also features examples of Haute Couture garments by Christian Dior, Chanel, and Givenchy dating from the 1950-1980s.”

A Birkin Bag in the auction
Hermès Snakes and Ladders Game
Pucci garments in the auction.
. I had the privilege of working with Emilio Pucci on several occasions a unique creator and a true joy to work with!
Of course a fabulous Chanel bag!
Givenchy Ensemble, 1975, LOT 238
and yes, I worked with M. Givenchy!

Previews are by appointment only on September 28th and 29th and October 2nd. The sale is October 3rd….Contact: Tannerbranson@hindmanauctions.com

A nenasnote I’ve known the founder, Leslie Hindman, for decades and could not be happier for her successes over the years…the company has grown into a Internationally respected auction house….here are further details…

“Hindman is a leading fine art auction house connecting cities nationwide to the global art market. With offices and salerooms throughout the country, Hindman conducts over 140 auctions annually in all major fine art and luxury collecting categories, while offering buyers and sellers an exceptional experience across multiple selling channels and price points.

Hindman’s team of experts is dedicated to maintaining the highest standards of ethics and integrity in the industry. Driven by this client-first approach, Hindman provides collectors, fiduciaries, and institutions with a comprehensive suite of services including auctions, appraisals, private sales, and art advisory.

Hindman was formed through the merger of two premier auction houses, Leslie Hindman Auctioneers (est. 1982) and Cowan’s Auctions (est. 1995). For over 40 years Hindman has built a reputation as a market leader by providing outstanding service and achieving record results. Hindman is headquartered in Chicago with 15 additional locations serving clients coast to coast.”

Now a bit about Tanner….I first met him as a student (one of mine!) when he attended Columbia College Chicago and during his time working in their Fashion Study Collection. We have become friends over the years. The history and preservation of clothing is, in my opinion, part of his DNA! I look forward to seeing what wonderful treasures he will find to bring to all of through Hindman!

Tanner Branson
Specialist , Head of Sale, Luxury Handbags & Couture

From Tanner’s promotion announcement….

“As the Head of Sale of the Luxury Handbag & Accessories Department at Hindman, he will oversee the department’s four-yearly auctions, liaise with clients nationwide in evaluating their couture, and assist with appraisals. He will support Hindman Chicago’s headquarters and their well-established regional offices around the country to further develop the firm’s commitment to luxury goods.

His journey in the luxury market has taken him to many places. he brings with him a decade of experience working with iconic brands such as The Row and Brunello Cuccinelli for Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. In curating his client’s personal and public wardrobes, he was given the opportunity to work with a rich collection of garments and expand his professional acumen. These experiences have honed his ability to understand the finer nuances of luxury and cater to the preferences of clients who appreciate the art of fashion.

Additionally, he am proud to be affiliated with various auxiliary boards, including the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum. His academic background, which includes a bachelor’s degree in Fashion Business from Columbia College Chicago (with a personal focus on fashion and textile history), fuels his passion for preserving the stories held within each garment and accessory.

In keeping with Hindman’s commitment to exceptional service, he is excited to connect with clients across the country.”

As usual this is not a sponsored post…I don’t have sponsors…if interested in sponsorships contact me.

All photos, unless otherwise noted, courtesy of Hindman.