ANATOMY OF AN AUCTION PART 4: MAUREEN DWYER SMITH’S DIVERSE AND EXTENSIVE COLLECTION OF COUTURE CLOTHING AND HANDBAGS!

MAUREEN DWYER SMITH

By now you know I love doing posts of upcoming auctions….it is a first, I believe, for me to feature some highlights from a huge major collection by a collector of such distinctive designers… but also worn by a major Chicagoan and someone I knew and worked with on events. How fun! I’m very excited to be able to give you an exclusive peak into this true fashion collector’s wardrobe in a once in a lifetime opportunity to add some of these collectibles to your own wardrobe! Bidding begins on Friday, August 29, 2025. Bid soon and often! http://www.hindmanauctions.com

Here is a brief bio of Maureen Dwyer Smith…

“Maureen served as Chair of the Board of the Joffrey Ballet, where she also founded its Women’s Board. Her leadership was widely credited with helping to establish a sound financial and managerial foundation for the Joffrey.” (a nenasnote….I produced many events to benefit the Joffrey, as you know one of my beloved institutions, while I was at Saks Fifth Avenue, Chicago…under the guidence of the dynamic Ms. Smith!)

“Maureen’s dedication to the arts and education extended to numerous other institutions. She was a Trustee of the Field Museum, the Chicago Public Library Foundation, the Museum of Contemporary Art, and After School Matters. She also co-authored 100 Masterpieces, the Art Institute of Chicago’s centennial publication. Additionally, she served on the Women’s Boards of the Field Museum, the Art Institute, Rush University Medical Center, Northwestern University, the Alliance Française, the Goodman Theatre, the Lincoln Park Zoo, and the Shirley Ryan Ability Lab. Her commitment to civic engagement earned her shared awards from the Harvard Club of Chicago and DePaul University.”

I thought it would be interesting to include some of the designers .featured in the auction at work on their creations….I paraphrase Bette Davis….”fashion” your seat belts you are in for an incredible ride…

Let’s start with the wonderful world of CHANEL designed by the extraordinary talent of Karl Lagerfeld…here a VERY small sampling of what is in the auction as collected by a fashion connoisseur…

KARL LAGERFELD SHARING ONE OF HIS SKETCHES
EMILIO PUCCI
One of his exquisitely beaded pieces

And more……

ZANDRA RHODES…A FAVORITE DESIGNER OF PHILIP MILLER WHEN HE HEADED MARSHALL FIELD’S SHE CAME TO CHICAGO OFTEN WITH HER UNIQUE CREATIONS
RALPH RUCCI AT WORK… HIS CREATIONS ARE MASTERPIECES OF CREATIVITY AND WORKMANSHIP





JUDITH LEIBER
TOMATO MINAUDIÈRE
EGGPLANT MINAUDIÈRE
TULIP MINAUDIÈRE

A SELECTION OF NANCY GONZALES BAGS

Here is a quote I wanted to share with you…

Freeman’s | Hindman is proud to present The Couture Collection of Maureen Dwyer Smith, an esteemed Chicago civic leader and philanthropist. This remarkable collection showcases garments by iconic designers such as Ralph Rucci, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, and Emilio Pucci, alongside coveted handbags by Chanel, Judith Leiber, and Hermès.Select pieces from Mrs. Smith’s refined wardrobe curated with both elegance and practicality in mind will be featured across three luxury auctions: Fall FashionHoliday Lux, and The Holiday Edit. More than a style icon, Maureen Dwyer Smith was a dedicated patron of the arts, founder of the Joffrey Ballet Women’s Board, and a beloved figure in Chicago’s cultural and philanthropic circles.”

Tanner C. Branson, Associate Vice President, Head of Department: Luxury Handbags & Couture…FREEMAN’S | HINDMAN

Here are the dates for the upcoming auctions…

Fall Fashion – September 12th

The Holiday Edit – November 18th

Holiday Lux – December 5th

http://www.hindmanauctions.com

HAPPENINGS: THE ANATOMY OF AN AUCTION PART 3…CENTER STAGE: THE LAURA PELS COLLECTIONS ACT III, LUXURY HANDBAGS AND COUTURE

LAURA PELS

I’m beyond thrilled to have been given the opportunity to share yet another very exciting upcoming Freeman’s|Hindman auction with all of you. It is an exclusive especially for nenasnotes! This amazing philanthropist’s story is an extraordinary one and is seen through her love of art, theater and her innate sense of style. I am totally intrigued with her and her story…I know you will be as well.

Read more about this unique personality I’d like to direct you to her New York Times Obituary

https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.nytimes.com/2023/05/05/theater/laura-pels-dead.html&sa=U&sqi=2&ved=2ahUKEwj57u69uraGAxVdrokEHdgbD8EQFnoECBgQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1REZeUGjR0lgjE3kgD2Q3c

About Laura Pels…

Laura Pels Bio 

“Property from the Collection of Laura Pels, River House, New York

Laura Pels was a philanthropist and devoted supporter of the dramatic arts, founding the Laura Pels International Foundation for Theater, an organization that underwrote productions for a myriad of nonprofit theater groups as well as playwrights such as Harold Pinter and Arthur Miller, amongst many others. 

Born in Saint-Vivien-de-Monségur, a village near Bordeaux, France, in 1931, Josette Jeanne Berrnard studied mime and acting in Paris as a young woman. In her twenties, she decided to change her name to Laura and by the age of 25 had moved to London to study English. Following her first marriage to Adolphe Meeus, she made the transatlantic move to New York which would remain her home until her passing last year. 

She married communications executive, Mr. Pels, in 1965 who invested heavily in cellular communications during the 1980s. Following a business deal in 1989, where McCaw cellular bought a controlling interest in Pels’ firm, Ms. Pels and her husband made a significant donation to support the founding of the National Actors Theater by actor Tony Randall. Its mission was to present affordable shows by playwrights such as Ibsen, Chekov and Miller. Ms. Pels became the leader of the foundation upon her divorce in 1993 and funded projects at esteemed theaters such as the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, Washington, and provided grants to talented students at the Julliard School and the Tisch School of the Arts at New York University.

Ms. Pels retained strong ties to France throughout her life: she rented an apartment in Paris and was involved with Le Théâtre de L’Atelier in Montmatre. Her peerless taste is reflected in this beautiful collection of jewelry which includes works by renowned and timeless French makers such as Cartier and Boucheron, alongside more avant-garde pieces including works designed by artist Jean Cocteau. Couture, fine and decorative arts from the River House apartment of Ms. Pels will be offered in a sequence of sales at Freeman’s I Hindman in New York and online this Spring.”

LAURA PELS

About the auction…

“Center Stage: The Laua Pels Collections | Act III | Luxury Handbags and Couture – includes a significant collection of Pierre Cardin Haute Couture, Geoffrey Beene and Chanel ready-to-wear. In addition to over 40 Chanel handbags and a large collection of Hermès scarves. Ms. Pels love and deep appreciation for French culture is evident in her couture collection – many of her pieces were purchased in Paris and New York directly from the designers and custom tailored for her, she meticulously selected pieces that would complement her jewelry collection (sold by Freeman’s | Hindman earlier this month in our Important Jewelry Sale) and her art collection. Ms. Pels was a close friend of famed artist Françoise Gilot – her River House home was filled with works by the artist, one can easily see that Ms. Pels took inspiration from the work of Gilot when it came to her own sense of style – many of the colors that Gilot favored are predominant in Ms. Pels wardrobe, she also wore pieces from Gilot’s daughter Paloma Picasso, a selection of those pieces are included in the sale. Ms. Pels also admired the work of J. Mendel the sale includes many exquisite furs by the famed furrier, many were custom created for Ms. Pels. It is rare to see a collection as complete as this one come to the market, from day one I realized how special this couture collection was an am thrilled to be bringing it to the auction block through Freeman’s | Hindman in June.” Quote from Tanner Branson, Head of Sale, Luxury Handbags & Couture. Freeman’s | Hindman

FROM THE COLLECTION OF 202 Garment lots, 44 Chanel handbag lots, 299 lots total.

A COLLECTION OF CHANEL CAMELLIAS
Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche quilted cape and
Pierre Cardin Haute Couture gown
TANNER BRANSON PREPPING VYES SAINT LAURENT CAPE
Chanel
Chanel
Pierre Cardin
Geoffrey Beene
Geoffrey Beene gown, Rafael Sanchez for Geoffrey Beene red lacquered handbag and Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche cape
Carolyne Roehm coat
GEOFFREY BEENE COSTUME
Some of the Collection of Chanel bags

FROM THE PRESS RELEASE

“The couture collection of Laura Pels features runway pieces from Karl Lagerfeld’s collections for Chanel, Pierre Cardin Haute Couture from the 1980-90s, and an important collection of Geoffrey Beene. Many of the pieces were custom-made for Ms. Pels’ specifications. The collection also features forty plus Chanel handbags. Much like the art and jewelry collections of Ms. Pels, her couture reflects her deep appreciation for French culture.”

SALE INFORMATION 

Center Stage: The Laua Pels Collections | Act lll: Luxury Handbags and Couture

Sale Date: June 25th  

Sale Publication Date: June 11th

Preview Dates: June 20th, 21st and June 24th – by appointment only, please contacttannerbranson@hindmanauctions.com to schedule an appointment.

For more information go to the link below.

https://hindmanauctions.com/auctions/2091-Center-Stage-Luxury-Handbags-and-Couture-from-The-Laura-Pels-Collection

HAPPENINGS…COSTUME COUNCIL OF THE CHICAGO HISTORY MUSEUM PRESENTS…AN AFTERNOON WITH CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

Christian and Nena at a Columbia College Chicago event

By now you know I have been fortunate to work with many, many fashion designers and other fashion personalities over the years….my last in store designer, actually on the very day of my retirement from Saks Fifth Avenue, Chicago, was the Uber talented creator, Christian Siriano!

I knew from the first time I saw him on Project Runway he would become a superstar and he has gone beyond my expectations!!! Not only is he super talented but also s delightful gentleman!

And guess what you have the opportunity to meet Christian at a very special Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum event in honor of the Presidents’ Council Award on Thursday, October 12th at the Four Seasons Hotel Chicago

One of the many things I adore about him is that he wants to dress all women beautifully no matter their size…what a concept..don’t you agree!!

From his SCAD exhibition
His mask factory at the beginning of COVID…a hero!
Spring 2024 Collectio
His art
His Home Collection.
New York store
Westport Connecticut Store

I’m beyond thrilled for all his success and look forward to his next ventures…..here is how you can learn more about him and join the event…do it!!!!!

PRESIDENTS’ CIRCLE AWARD LUNCHEON
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 12
11:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m.
Four Seasons Hotel Chicago
120 E Delaware Pl

Get Tickets to Luncheon

LUNCHEON TIMELINE
11:00 a.m. | Champagne reception with Christian Siriano
12:00 p.m. | Luncheon
12:45 p.m. | Interview with Christian Siriano

Seated Luncheon and Raffle • Luncheon Attire • Valet Parking Available

EVENT CHAIRS | Pamella Capitanini & David Mordini
LUNCHEON HOSTESSES | Tina Gravel, Rose Kallas & Dusty Stemer

Join the Costume Council as we present the third Presidents’ Circle Award to noted designer Christian Siriano. The afternoon will feature a luncheon
and an interview with Mr. Siriano.

PRESIDENTS’ CIRCLE AWARD LUNCHEON
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 12
11:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m.
Four Seasons Hotel Chicago
120 E Delaware PlGet Tickets to Luncheon

LUNCHEON TIMELINE 
11:00 a.m. | Champagne reception with Christian Siriano
12:00 p.m. | Luncheon
12:45 p.m. | Interview with Christian Siriano

Seated Luncheon and Raffle • Luncheon Attire • Valet Parking Available

EVENT CHAIRS | Pamella Capitanini & David Mordini
LUNCHEON HOSTESSES | Tina Gravel, Rose Kallas & Dusty Stemer

TABLE SPONSOR LEVELS

PEONY SPONSOR $5,000 | Front row center table seating for 10 guests*
DAFFODIL SPONSOR $4,500 | Second row center table seating for 10 guests*
TULIP SPONSOR $3,500 | Table seating for 10 guests*

HOST TICKET | $500
Premium seating*

NEWLY LOWERED PRICE
INDIVIDUAL TICKET | $275
Thanks to generous underwriting, we are fortunate to be
able to offer our last bloc of tickets at the reduced price of $275.

*Includes acknowledgement in program

SPONSORSHIP OPPORTUNITIES

ORCHID SPONSOR $5,000 | Includes two front row tickets, two signed copies of Dresses to Dream About, and designer package including
Fumee Claire gift and exclusive makeup samples*
ROSE SPONSOR $1,500 | Includes two front row tickets and 
two signed copies of Dresses to Dream About*
LILY SPONSOR $1,000 | Includes two front row tickets and
one signed copy of Dresses to Dream About*

*Includes premiere logo/listing in event program and registration site

ABOUT CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

Award-winning CFDA designer Christian Siriano has established himself as a tour de force in the fashion world since launching his eponymous collection in 2008 following his studies in London under Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. Siriano’s designs have been worn by today’s biggest stars including current FLOTUS Dr. Jill Biden, former FLOTUS Michelle Obama, Angelina Jolie, Oprah, Zendaya, Ariana Grande, Julianne Moore, Lady Gaga, Tiffany Haddish, Billy Porter, Cardi B, Whoopi Goldberg, Julia Roberts, and Jennifer Coolidge, to name but a few.

With nearly two decades of fashion experience under his belt, the Siriano design studio continues to celebrate beauty and diversity in this ever-changing fashion industry. As a result, Christian’s work has been featured in a multitude of prestigious museum exhibits including his first ever solo work retrospective titled “Christian Siriano: People Are People” at SCAD (Savannah College of Art & Design) from October 2021-2022, Kensington Palace’s largest exhibition to date (currently on view) titled “Crown to Couture,” and The MET Costume Institute where he broke a Met Gala record for having three separate looks featured in the 2021 exhibit “In America: A Lexicon.” Christian himself was also named among Time’s 100 Most Influential People in 2018 for his leading contributions to body diversity on the runway and red carpet, was a member of Forbes’ 30 Under 30 class of 2015, and was the youngest person to ever appear on Crain’s “40 Under 40” list at age 24.

Apart from his thriving fashion empire, Christian added interior designer (Siriano Interiors) and best-selling author (Dresses to Dream About and Dresses to Dream About: Deluxe Edition) to his impressive list of credits in 2021 and 2017, respectively. He’s also currently serving as host and mentor for Season 20 of the iconic Bravo hit series, Project Runway. This Fall will mark the brand’s 15 year anniversary.

“The Presidents’ Circle Award is given to designers who are not only making an indelible mark on today’s fashion world, but who are also promoting inclusivity and kindness toward others. It is our honor to celebrate Mr. Siriano’s history-making record of talent, inclusion, and creativity.”

— KAREN PETERS | First Vice President, Programs

THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS

DONORS
ORCHID SPONSORS ($5,000)

Richard and Diane Weinberg

ROSE SPONSORS ($1,500)
Barb and Keith Kizziah

LILY SPONSORS ($1,000)
Bon and Holly French

TABLE SPONSORS
PEONY SPONSORS ($5,000)

Pamella and Alfredo Capitanini 

TULIP SPONSORS ($3,500)
Tina Gravel
Neiman Marcus

HOST COMMITTEE
Constance Barkley
Michelle Bibergal
Kathleen Boege
Sophia Bross
Sujata Dayal
Stuart Dyer
Courtney Hopkins
Rosemary Kallas
Bonnie Lipe
Nina Mariano
Stacie McClane
Karen Peters
David Sanchez
Leslie Zentner

IN-KIND SPONSORS

Questions? Contact development events manager Nell McKeown at 312-799-2112 or mckeown@chicagohistory.org.

BOOKS…BOOKS…BOOKS! BE-SPOKE: REVELATIONS FROM THE WORLD’S MOST IMPORTANT FASHION DESIGNERS

“Marylou Luther is the editor and founder of the International Fashion Syndicate and award-winning “Clotheslines” column and is the fashion editor emeritus of newspapers including the Chicago Tribune and Los Angeles Times. Cuban-born artist Ruben Toledo has had his work published in The New Yorker, Vogue, Town & Country, and The New York Times.” From Rizzoli.

MARYLOU LUTHER BY RUBEN TOLEDO!
Ruben Toledo self portrait!

I had the pleasure of working with Marylou when she was with the Chicago Tribune and have enjoyed her trend predictions through the years. Her talented perspective on fashion is enhanced by her relationships with the designers and fashion professionals. This book is a unique, personal journey, through the years, using wonderful quotes from the best of the best of the intriguing creators of the world of fashion. Who hasn’t she interviewed from Christian Dior, the Master himself, to the current Dior Creative Director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, everyone who is anyone is here. It is indeed a one of a kind book that will enhance your fashion library. The quotes are a fun insight into the minds of the arbiters of style from Marylou’s seventy years as a fashion journalist, newspaper columnist and trend forecaster. And the Ruben Toledo illustrations are pure magic and enhance the quotes perfectly! Once in awhile a book comes along to give me a totally new perspective on a subject that I know very well…this is such a book…I really love everything about it! I think you will too.

From Rizzoli…”In her early days as a journalist, Luther met with the true legends of fashion—she interviewed Christian Dior in 1957 for the Chicago Tribune and visited Coco Chanel at her Rue Cambon atelier; Chanel proclaimed to Luther that “Only those with no memory insist on their originality. Yves Saint Laurent has excellent taste. The more he copies me, the better taste he displays.” Flash forward to present day, and designer Demna Gvasalia told Luther, “Fashion needs to shut up and look at itself—it needs a minute of silence to adjust after the pandemic.”

Working with this incredible creator on fashion shows were some of my fondest memories…and this quote is one of my favorites in the book.
I met Jeffrey Banks, as did my nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club, in 2018, when we discussed his extraordinary monograph on NORELL, also a Rizzoli publication. To celebrate the beginning of year 5 of TFBC we were in conversation with another of his blockbuster books TARTAN: Romancing the Plaid, another stunning Rizzoli book. Jeffrey has become a dear friend and major supporter of the monthly The Fashion Book and The Fashion Film Clubs. I’m obsessed with this great Toledo interpretation of the talented Jeffrey Banks a true Renaissance Man!

Lucky me that I will be in a virtual conversation with Marylou for the February 28th nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club. It will be a not to be missed event…contact me at nenasnotes1@gmail.com if you need further details. In addition, The Book Stall, my Independent Bookseller of choice, has a supply of the books. I would be most appreciative if you support them for all your book purchases (This isn’t a sponsored post!!!! Just a gentle nudge!!!!). https://www.thebookstall.com/book/9780847872022

BE-SPOKE: Revelations from the Worlds Most Important Fashion Designers by Marylou Luther © Rizzoli New York, 2023. Images, credited © RubenToledo.