BOOKS…BOOKS…BOOKS…WHEN WOMEN RAN FIFTH AVENUE

You, by now, know I love books and since I have had a monthly nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club for years, my reading tends to be skewed to fashion and lifestyle books. One that hit my radar many months ago was this extraordinary book by the brilliant Julie Satow!

When I first read about it I immediately sought out the author to plan a convenient date…that date just happened for our July 2024 meeting. Let’s first discuss my conversation with Julie! Probably what I like most about The Fashion Book Club is my interaction with the authors and Julie was a total delight. Her research and devotion to her subject is without peer! An aside, be sure to read her book The Plaza, spectacular!

What I like most about the book is that it reads like a novel in “fact form”. The research Julie has done is beyond phenomenal and it develops into a fascinating history of retail. The three prominent stores and their female leaders are long gone and, in my opinion, so are their principles of retail. I’m not naive about the state of retail today but was lucky to be in the industry when it was at its peak and the glamour was palpable! This study shows us the excitement of the store experience as well as the struggles of financial behemoths of this fascinating world. The women included were allowed to develop their own concepts of “give the Lady what she wants” with the men in charge giving them pretty much free rein to create new exciting emporiums. Each were inviting their customers to experience the excitement that is the back bone of retail! I, for one, see the need to bring the uniqueness of these ideas back to retail and make it magical once again!

The three woman and their stores profiled….

HORTENSE ODLUM BONWIT TELLER 1934-1940
DOROTHY SHAVER LORD AND TAYLOR 1945-1959
GERALDINE STUTZ HENRI BENDEL 1957-1986

If you have an interest in the history of fashion, the history of retail, the history of fashion in New York, or in the world of retail finance….this is the book for you. add it to your library you won’t regret it…it’s beyond fascinating…a Master Class of retail!

I am including a link to Jeffrey Banks review, enjoy! https://www.easthamptonstar.com/books/2024627/female-innovators-retail

My Independent Bookseller of choice is always The Book Stall,

http://www.thebookstall.com/

PROFILE…TZIPORAH SALAMON…AN ORIGINAL STYLE ICON!

I want to introduce you to a truly original style icon…Tziporah Salamon who has graciously agreed to answer my nenasnotes questionnaire. Her look is unique and I know you will be mesmerized by her story.

But first I wanted you to know about a very special upcoming event…below is the information about the exciting event the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum is presenting to kick off its 50th Anniversary. The Costume Council supports the outstanding world class costume collection at the Museum and has underwritten its extraordinary exhibitions and events. I have been involved with the Costume Council for most of those 50 years. I hope you can support this event and all the upcoming Anniversary excitement!

TUESDAY, JUNE 11th at the Chicago History Museum

“Join the Costume Council for a special presentation featuring style icon Tziporah Salamon, in the above photo, The Art of Dressing author profiles the chicest and most celebrated older women of today, showcasing their wardrobes and revealing the contents of their closets, while imparting practical tips on how to put together beautiful outfits.
Schedule…
5:30 p.m. – Costume Council Annual Meeting (Costume Council members only)
6:00 p.m. – Presentation by Tziporah Salamon
7:30 p.m. – Reception with drinks and light bites
Questions? Contact Nell McKeown, development events manager, at mckeown@chicagohistory.org or (312) 799-2112.”

This is going to be a long post so settle back with your drink of choice (you by now know mine is either a glass of red wine or a coupe of bubbles!), you will be fascinated by her incredible story….here we go…

“My parents wedding – right after the war – In Czechoslovakia- she made her dress out of a sheet – he made his suit”

“Purim costume – made by my mother – in some ways. I do Purim everyday!!!”

WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB

First job ever was in high school as a receptionist at a shipping company.  I worked after school a few times a week while a senior in high school for extra money.  I loved the responsibility of showing up and I actually loved it. I have always loved work – no matter the job!

“Me at 15 – mom made the dress”
“Sweet Sixteen with my parents – the Chinese restaurant gave me the Chinese coat to wear for the occasion- a foreshadowing to what I most collect now!”

BRIEFLY DESCRIBE YOUR MOST RECENT OCCUPATION 

My recent occupation: I teach a Masterclass called THE ART OF DRESSING in which I actually use my vast collection mainly  of antique clothes and accessories to teach the elements of style. I am also the author of a book by the same name, published by Rizzoli.

I am also a model – which I also love. I became a model at age 62, when I was photographed by Steven Meisel in the Lanvin 2012 fall winter collection.

“My first modeling gig – Steven Meisel, Alber Elbas and Pat McGrath – I was 62”

WHEN DID YOU DISCOVER YOUR FIRST IMPRESSION OF YOUR TALENT

I always knew I dressed well.  What I didn’t know was that not everyone did.

That was a huge revelation for me.  I first noticed it was when I was getting a PhD in psychology and I noticed that even though I had a limited budget being a high school teacher at the time, I was better dressed than my wealthy professors who were successful therapists.  

WHEN DID YOU KNOW YOU HAD “MADE IT” EXPLAIN

I am not sure I feel like I made it.  I am always growing and evolving. But being recognized and adored and appreciated by Bill Cunningham was the ultimate compliment to me. No one’s word or taste or appreciation meant more.

“Bill and me on 5th Ave – we did not know our photo was being taken. A friend found it on the internet. My favorite photo!”

Except my father’s.  And I got that one morning when he was in his 90’s and I was leaving to go to work from his apt one Monday morning, wearing a pair of pants that he altered for me,  he looked at me with so much love that I said, “I look good today, don’t I?” And he answered, “you look good everyday!”

“With my papa”

HOW DID YOUR ORIGINAL PASSION BRING YOU TO WHERE YOU ARE NOW  

I always loved clothes.  As a baby, I would go to sleep and wake up to more clothes – lovingly made for me by both my parents.  My mother, a gifted dressmaker,  could sew, knit, crochet and embroider and made all my sweaters, dresses, blouses and skirts, while my father, a master tailor , made the coats, pants and jackets.  I was equally comfortable dressed as a little girl or a little boy.  And as if that wasn’t enough, my aunt in America, after Auschwitz, ended up in NY where over one weekend there was a Jewish dance which she attended as well as a Jewish Texan whom she ended up marrying. He happened to be the vice president of Neiman Marcus so when she found out her favorite brother, my father, was alive, living in Israel  and had two little girls she went shopping and did not look at price tags.  So from day one, I had on my back the best clothes that hands could make – custom made for me at all ages and sizes – and the best clothes that money could buy.  And when we got one of these packages from America – – my mother would invite all the relatives and I eagerly showed off all my new clothes. So here were the seeds for my ART OF DRESSING MASTERCLASS.

Photo by Robbie Quinn

WHAT WOULD HAVE BEEN YOUR ALTERNATE CHOICE AS A CAREER….WAS THERE ONE

I wanted to be a teacher from first day of school and pursued that goal – getting a Masters Degree in education.  Then I wanted to be a therapist and pursued that goal by finishing two out of three years towards a PhD in psychology.  Now, I am pursuing an acting career.  

“Leaving Berkeley where I quit the PhD in psychology to return to NY to pursue fashion – 1979 -29 years old”
“5 years later – 1984 – for NY Magazine- photos by Cheryl Koralik @cherylkoralik”

TALK A BIT ABOUT YOUR BOOK AND ADVANCED STYLE…THE BOOK AND FILM 

Advanced Style, the book, shows photos of women advanced in years and advanced in style – all of us over 60.  Advance Style Documentary focuses on 7of us NY women all over the age of 60.  I was the youngest at age 62 and the oldest was age 82. The filmmaker, Lina Plioplyte , followed each of us separately and together for 3 years and then she and Ari Seth Cohen, the producer and writer of the books made this film.

ADVANCED STYLE THE BOOK AND THE FILM

My book, THE ART OF DRESSING, published by Rizzoli, is a how to book with beautiful photos of me and 10 other women all over the age of 60 in which I break down each woman’s personal style and why it works.  The book, with beautiful illustrations as well as photographs goes over the elements of style – color, texture, proportion, silhouette, rhythm; story and how to incorporate them in your dressing. 

“Recent glamour shot by Iris Brosch”

YOUR FAVORITE BOOK, MOVIE, LIST THE FOLLOWING,IN ORDER OF PREFERENCE…THEATER (LEGIT, MUSICALS), BALLET, OPERA, SYMPHONY…TYPE OF MUSIC YOU LIKE TO LISTEN TO…FAVORITE RESTAURANT

Favorite book: 

I loved so many…War & Peace; The Fountainhead; A Tree Grows in Brooklyn: Middlemarch

Favorite movie:

Splendor in the Grass; Doctor Zhivago; Reds; Flowers of Shanghai; Auntie Mame

In order of preferences:

Theatre , especially musicals

Opera

Ballet 

Symphony

Type of music – all music – from opera to rock’n’roll – country western, waltzes 

Perry Como, Bruce Springsteen; the Mavericks; Shlomo Carlebach; Hebrew music; Arabic music; Irish ballads; Enya; Bach

HOBBIES….

Playing with clothes

Biking and blasting my favorite music

“Above photos taken by Ike Ude, done in one afternoon”
“One of my favorite fashion shoots with Robbie Quinn”

HOME….MODERN, TRADITIONAL, ANTIQUES (WHAT ERA) ECLECTIC… DESCRIBE

Home is definitely antiques and eclectic.  Lots of color – shawls, bags, hats, shoes, fringe artfully displayed throughout the apt

WHO WOULD YOU HAVE AT YOUR FANTASY DINNER (LIVING OR DEAD AND BE SURE TO INCLUDE YOURSELF!) AND WHAT WOULD YOU SERVE (10-12 GUESTS)

Charlie Chaplin; Paul Newman; Myrna Loy; Marlena Dietrich; Clark Gable; Einstein; Golda Meir; Ziva Sirkis, one of the women in my book and my second “mother”; Shakespeare; Emily Dickinson; Cecil B DeMille and myself

Dinner would be spreads of all kinds on crackers and bread for starters 

Cheese and fruit laid out 

Bowls of fresh salads, sliced tomatoes, sliced avocados,

Roasted potatoes

Roasted brussel sprouts

Roasted beets 

Grilled cauliflower 

Wild salmon 

Pea soup 

Fresh cherries 

Fresh figs

Fresh grapes 

FAVORITE VACATION SPOT VISITED AND/OR ON YOUR GO TO LIST

I loved Jamaica when I visited but I also love Paris and Italy and Greece and, of course, my homeland, my beloved Israel 

WHAT DO YOU ENJOY DOING MOST IN YOUR FREE TIME?

Going for bike rides

Exploring the city 

Going to museums 

Playing with clothes 

Going to the movies – especially at the Film Forum and Lincoln Center 

FAVORITE WORK OF PUBLIC ART 

I loved Christo’s and Jeanne Claude’s THE GATES. It had a profane affect on my as my father had just passed on Feb 20, 2005 and I sat Shiva for him in Brooklyn, in Brighton Beach where he lived and died.  After a week of sitting, came back to my neighborhood on the upper west side and went for a walk in Central Park, towards Bergdorf’s, where my father had been a tailor from age 77-85. Seeing the gates – that bright orange fabric blowing in the wind and surviving the snow and chill and elements brought me back to life. They were like sentient beings welcoming me home.

HOW WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE REMEMBERED

As someone who lived fully, loved fully and was authentically herself!

FAVORITE LINKS YOU WOULD LIKE TO INCLUDE

Love the following people on Instagram and follow regularly:

@magay_45

@thehatshopnyc

@marie_clare

@mashaarcher

@9thstvintage

@noatishby

@normanfried

THE BOOK STALL NEWSLETTER….FEATURES nenasnotes THE FASHION BOOK CLUB!

Look what I just got…..The Book Stall Newsletter Literary Community Bulletin Board featuring nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club
I’m beyond speechless….so honored and thrilled.

“The Book Stall is pleased to host this Literary Community Bulletin Board. Any news of interest to readers and writers? Send your information to Robert at events@thebookstall.com with “Literary Community Bulletin Board” in the subject line. Note: The Book Stall reserves editorial privilege.cropped-nenas-notes_updated-header1 image

Tuesday, March 28

5:30 – 7 pmcd569db3-a6cc-4f68-8e1e-85330a1a95a1 image

Host Nena Ivon talks with author Alexis Romano about her new book, Prêt-À-Porter, Paris and Women: A Cultural Study of French Readymade Fashion, 1945-1968. Nenasnotes: The Fashion Book Club (TFBC) is a monthly virtual gathering, meeting the fourth Tuesday of each month from 5:30 to 7 pm, to discuss all manner of fashion and lifestyle books, and features fascinating authors in conversation with the founder of TFBC, Nena Ivon, and a thoroughly engaged audience. See its website here.

TFBC will celebrate its sixth year in June 2023. Since it’s inception, The Book Stall has been TFBC Independent Bookseller of choice. The monthly fee is $25. For further information please contact Nena at nenasnotes1@gmail.com. Mention The Book Stall in your email to Nena and you can attend your first program for free!”

BOOKS…BOOKS…BOOKS: MY FASHION LIBRARY AND UPCOMING nenasnotes THE FASHION BOOK CLUB SELECTIONS

A peek at a small sampling of my fashion books.

I have been collecting fashion books since high school so needless to say a very long time! I followed fashion magazines long before that…I come from a family of magazine lovers, as well as major bibliophiles! so no surprise. This is the first fashion book I got, I decided to go downtown after school, actually Michigan Avenue, to my favorite bookseller at the time, Main Street Book Store, mid-1950’s, to get the book. I talked Mom into joining me and we could then meet Daddy for supper at one of our favorite restaurants, A Bit Of Sweden….their smorgasbord was perfection….loved it.

Since that time, both establishments are long gone, my fashion library has grown to around 1000 tomes! I have most of them listed on the fabulous site, LibraryThing http://www.librarything.com they also have an app. I still have many more to add. It’s truly a full time job! As you know I have hosted a monthly nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club since 2018, you do the math as to how many I’ve added in 5 1/2 years! I do add those as I get them and have them all together. Just a note on how I house these books…I have them either by designer…think Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent…or by theme such as Hollywood Costumes, French Designers, American Designers, Monographs, Novels, Biographies, Autobiographies, Anthologies…you get the idea. I have many first editions, many signed and many personalized. One of my treasures is a Godey’s Lady’s Book given to me by a dear friend…I found it in a vintage bookstore in Stratford, Canada.

Everywhere I go I seek out bookstores or antique shops and have found lots of treasures. I have also found several at our own Randolph Street Market (it’s celebrating its 20th Anniversary this year at its season opening May 27th and 28th). https://www.randolphstreetmarket.com

I’m hoping to house the collection at the Chicago History Museum in their research center. I want to leave it as a collection…if I find they aren’t interested I’ll seek another institution. Perhaps a fashion school. Need to do more research on that.

Now let’s look at what’s ahead for nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club…as usual, for most months, I’ll be in conversation with the authors. All via zoom.

APRIL 2023

MAY 2023

JUNE 2023

JULY 2023 TWO BOOKS NOT WITH AUTHORS

Met Museum Exhibition Book

AUGUST 2023

All the nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club selections are available at my partner Independent Bookseller https://www.thebookstall.com I’m always open to book suggestions and be sure to stay tuned for upcoming reviews on these selections….happy fashionable reading!!!!!

BOOKS…BOOKS…BOOKS: THE CANDY IN MY POCKET

When I was asked by a dear friend to read and review a book by one of her close friends I, of course, said it would be my pleasure. It put me in an awkward situation…what if I didn’t like it! You, dear followers, know I don’t do negative reviews and I only read what I like…rarely non-fiction…unless the subject is fashion or lifestyle for all my nenasnotes research and events. For pleasure I prefer historical fiction. Well, guess what…I loved this book! And it fits into my lifestyle genre perfectly. You see the author is a renowned interior decorator…the stars were now aligned! There is SO much information included (I’ll get to that shortly!) that I read it twice, I don’t remember doing that before. Its a story about a creator…a lesson in self awareness and self preservation….a travelogue….anything but your usual memoir, it’s a very powerful story.

I want to share the joie de vivre John has for survival…for life! Sharing his incredible story is a journey more fiction than fact but guess what…it is the story of his life and one we can all learn from. It’s inspirational….it’s inspiring…it should be depressing it is anything but…it’s a MUST read!!!!

The author, John Robert Wiltgen

Okay let’s get to the unbelievable story John tells us. The song, “I’m Still Here” from Follies should be the subtitle of this amazing life. John begins at the beginning…his childhood, filled with adventure which continues to this day. He was diagnosed with Type 1 diabetes at the age of 8 a fact he managed to keep hidden much of his life. As a child and a teenager he was quite rebellious, in a fun way, he started working while in high school at a paint company where he rose to an executive positions, still in his teens, he never told anyone his age…the writing was on the wall for his future career. Loved reading about his time at Ray Vogue College of Design, I worked with the students for many years and Mrs. Ray was a very unique personality! He lived in a Chicago suburb and, as an under age teen, loved disco dancing and would come to Chicago with his close friends to frequent the major discos such as FACES (I spent many an evening there!). He and his friends would practice for hours in his basement apartment in his parents home. They were so good they became the dance floor stars…in my minds eye I picture John Travolta!

Much later with friends and John Travolta!

The book doesn’t sugar coat (sorry, I shouldn’t mention sugar but it seemed appropriate!) when John describes his ongoing battle with the unbelievable complications of Type 1 Diabetes. He has had so many that it could read like a horror story, instead it is done in such a straightforward positive way that you know he hasn’t and won’t let anything stop him from living life fully! He presents his many, many, many challenges along side his interests, cars for an example, travel, the arts and his love for them, his philanthropic endeavors, his love for family and friends and, of course, his extraordinary interior design business. Here are a couple photos of his glorious designs…I could just do a post on photos from his extensive career. One of my favorite sections in the book and I do have many favorites is his time in Nigeria working with the King!

John’s worldwide interiors have been featured in many shelter magazines and numerous TV programs…awards were inevitable and more than well deserved.
He has always loved anything Egyptian…here the foyer from one of his own homes.
Known for his imaginative bathrooms and kitchens, this is one of my favorites.

Speaking of family…how many can say that all members of their family would be a match if you needed a kidney and your mother said, no, I’m donating mine…talk about a mother’s love! John’s support team through the years has sustained him along with his feeling of what’s next in life and always seeking a cure and an end to this life threatening disease. He not only takes his mother to Venice but also to The Academy Awards and many other special once in a lifetime events through the years.

John takes his Mother to one of the balls in Venice, one of his most favorite cities ….(John is in the gold mask)!

Along the way he has designed for celebrity clients, done show houses, model rooms….again the list goes on….and won zillions of awards not only for his designs but also for his philanthropy.

With Jane Seymour at a showing of her art which John hosted in Chicago..

In conclusion what are my take aways from this beautifully written story of a survivor…..so many things but let me narrow it down. John tackles each challenge in his fight against this dreadful disease…one day at a time, one horrific devastating outcome…one day at a time with grit, determination and, yes, humor. What should be a depressing book is anything but because of the author’s joie de vivre and positive attitude. You will learn so much about Type 1 Diabetes and be inspired to join the fight to find a cure as well as how to handle your own day to day issues. My last words….get the book, it will be published on June 22nd, you won’t be disappointed and by reading it you will be delighted to welcome John as a new fascinating multi-layered friend.

A quote from the book “Type 1 diabetes and I tackled one disaster after another. It can be a harsh lifestyle causing both physical and emotional devastation. Out of desperation, I embraced every new treatment hoping for even a shred of relief.”

From the book jacket.

BOOKS…BOOKS…BOOKS: CELEBRATING INDEPENDENT BOOK SELLERS DAY!

A PEEK AT MY BOOK NOOK/OFFICE!

By now you know I’m obsessed with books! Here just a tiny sampling of my fashion books. I’ve been collecting them since high school. Since we are about to start year five of nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club lots more have been added…many signed by the authors I’ve had in conversation. I know I’ve done other posts on my fashion books so won’t bore you again, I just wanted to call attention to todays bookseller celebration. It’s SO important to support our local businesses. I don’t think I’ve been anywhere in the world that I have sought out a bookstore and I know I’ve never left with out a purchase or two or……My bookseller of choice, again not a surprise to you is The Book Stall in Winnetka, Illinois. They are THE best.

Keep reading and actual hold a book in your hands…it’s a good addition!

BOOKS…BOOKS…BOOKS: THE MAGNOLIA PALACE

By now you know my favorite books are historical fiction and you probably also know I am obsessed with anything New York City so when both things come together you can only imagine my delight!

I have been a huge fan of Fiona Davis since I read her first book The Dollhouse why you might ask, simply because she delves into the total story behind each NYC landmark building she features as the lead character and then, here comes the fun part, weaves a story around that building’s beginnings and characters (some historical others fictional) of that time and then brings us to modern times. I am not usually a fan of going back and forth in time but Davis does it with such transparently that it works to perfection.

I must admit I haven’t had much time recently to read for pleasure, my reading has been relegated to books I am featuring on my monthly nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club. I did, however, want to dive into her new book THE MAGNOLIA PALACE, and I’m beyond delighted I did. Pure escapism! I’m not going to spoil the story for you but I do what to give you a brief overview of the landmark she has chosen this time….The Frick Collection! It happens to be one of my favorite places anywhere. At the moment it is being refreshed and renovated and the Collections are on display at The Frick Madison. One of the things that I looked forward to each week, during our COVID lockdown, and hung on every word, was their brilliant virtual series Cocktails With A Curator….You can see it on YouTube, you won’t be sorry.

But I digress, I always seem to do that, sorry! Back to the book, it follows two protagonists, one, Lillian Carter, in 1919 and the other, Veronica Weber, in 1966. Both happen to be models, Lillian an artists model and Veronica a fashion model (those story lines were, of course, right up my alley). But the main character, is The Frick itself! What I like most about Davis’ writing, as I mentioned before is, her deep dive into the history of each of her chosen landmarks, her detailed research is truly, in my opinion, her strength. Sure the characters stories are captivating, but the story of The Frick (or Grand Central Station, the New York Public Library, etc.) is what fascinates me and makes me excited for her next story and makes me want to visit my second favorite city (Chicago will always come first!) as soon as possible.

Just a pretty fountain, in front of The Plaza in NYC, perhaps…read the book to find out more!
The Frick Collection in Spring

Setting the story in two totally different times gives us yet another dimension to consider…obviously everything changes from etiquette, to buildings, to fashion, to food…the list goes on. BUT what doesn’t change is how we appreciate and NEED art in our lives. Henry Clay Frick was a major collector of European art, sculpture, furniture and objects. His daughter, Helen Clay Frick, continued the collecting after her father’s death as well as made it her life’s work to continue his vision. The building, originally their family home, became the museum it is today. It is kept very much like a home, an ultra splendid home, with the art hung in various rooms and you indeed feel as if you are a guest in someone’s masterpiece…the home becoming yet another part of the story!

Henry Clay Frick and his daughter Helen Clay Frick
The Fragonard Room my favorite.
The mansion turned museum

I’m so eager to have you read this engaging story of the mansion and what is what like at its beginning with a man’s vision and his devoted daughter’s desire to keep his legacy alive for all of us to treasure. I can’t wait to see it when it reopens its splendor to us! I say a field trip is in order, perhaps Fiona will join us on our tour!!! Enjoy the fabulousness of The Frick Collection and what might have happened inside its walls…

BOOKS…BOOKS…BOOKS: BLACK FASHION DESIGNER BOOKS PART 1

To celebrate Black History Month….in fact every month, I wanted to share some books by and about Black fashion designers and other Black fashion/beauty/lifestyle influencers. I’m very happy to say it is a long list and I’m sure I’m only scratching the surface. In today’s post I’m going to feature two of the fashion designers. This is a diverse group of creators and they span three centuries. At a time when we seem to be in a “cancel culture” mode I want to upset that notion….I am a FIRM believer that we must know history….the good, the bad, the ugly….to understand our world, how to not make the same mistakes, how to grow and improve…and how to maintain the positive! I can’t even comprehend the absurdity of banning books…talk about going backward, how can we learn without all opinions! Okay, I’ll get off my soapbox…my blog has and will continue to be a safe zone from the politics of the day.

Here we go….I’m going to begin with the first Black designer of note, Elizabeth Keckley, dressmaker to Mary Todd Lincoln and Washington DC socialites. Her story is beyond fascinating, born into slavery she bought her freedom through her dressmaking…extraordinary. There are several books about her, an autobiography, a biography and several novels, I would suggest all of them. Here is a story that needs to be absorbed and, in my opinion is as important as the beginning of Haute Couture and Charles Worth. What makes that a comparison is the period of time when they were creating. Everyone knows about The House of Worth…in my humble opinion, now is the time, long over due, to shine the spotlight on Elizabeth Keckley! An amazing grouping of books, I’m sure you agree…all worthy of additions to your fashion library.

Next, let’s explore the relatively unknown creator of Jacqueline Bouvier’s gown when she married Jack Kennedy, Ann Cole Lowe! Lowe not only produced an extraordinary bridal gown (under the patronage of Joseph Kennedy!) but the gowns for the entire wedding party. Already a known designer for New York and Washington movers and shakers….Ann Lowe was not credited for these gowns! I am featuring two books, the only two I could find, keep you eyes out for a novel to be published on June 22, 2022, the last image

I featured a book by Petra Slinkard in my monthly nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club….both these designers are highlighted in this extraordinary book…another to add to your library

Stay tuned for Part 2 of my Books…Books…Books: Black Fashion Designer Books posts next week. Lots more to explore.

BOOKS…BOOKS…BOOKS: A GIRL NAMED CARRIE

By now you know my obsession with books…I’ve had it since childhood, I wasn’t able to participate in gym activities in my elementary school and spent that time in my Evanston, Illinois, Oakton school, in the library…I was in Heaven. I had been exposed to books from infancy and lord knows I’m WAY beyond that now. Finding new books is a passion and those who know me well feed that interest. You also know I host a monthly nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club and have featured many exciting books on the intricacies of the genre. In addition, I never do negative reviews, what would be the point. I am, therefore, fascinated when a subject, or in this case, a personality comes to my attention that is totally new to me, my antenna goes up! When my dear friend, the Renaissance Man and member of TFBC, Jeffrey Banks, tells me I need to know about a book, I listen! Today’s review is such a book and when you give just a bit of thought you might think it ironic that I’m featuring it. I am, indeed, featuring it because it is a superbly written account of an amazing woman who at the beginning of the 20th Century truly set the standard for specialized service in retail. Let’s learn a bit about Carrie in the riveting story written by her grand niece, Jerrie Marcus Smith, whose father was Stanley Marcus!

Carrie Marcus Neiman, along with her husband and brother, had a dream, no, a vision, early in the 1900’s to create a specialty store devoted to service. Let’s turn our thoughts back to 1907 and visualize, if we can, what opportunities presented themselves to women…not many. This didn’t, for an instant, stop Carrie from creating a store that would cater to not only the new wealthy women but to any women who wanted style and individual attention.

Think about it very carefully, a women in her 20’s with no formal training, Jewish, married and divorced who would create the first specialty store and become its CEO…just imagine! Also envision Dallas, Texas in the early days of the new century…certainly not the Metropolis it is today….never mind, Carrie wanted to offer the high fashion of New York and Paris and offer it she did in what became the arbiter of style, Neiman Marcus!

She not only brought the fashion capitals to Dallas, she also brought her special clients to those capitals where she outfitted them head to toe. She had an eye and instinct that her clients trusted and depended upon for all their wardrobe needs. It wasn’t long before Carrie and Neiman Marcus became highly respected in the New York and Paris fashion salons which she regularly frequented. She produced fashion shows in the Store and was instrumental in creating their legendary Christmas Catalog, which we all eagerly look forward to each year. She along with Stanley Marcus started, in 1938, The Neiman Marcus Awards for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion Service which became known as the Oscars of the world of fashion!

She was quiet and unassuming but don’t let that fool you, she knew exactly what would be becoming to each individual. (A Nenas Note….those of you who know me know I’m not found of the term “Influencer” I’ll break that feeling by saying, I would consider Carrie one of our first Influencers!)

The book is truly a love letter exquisitely written by Carrie’s grandniece, Jerrie Marcus Smith, you will want to savor each and every word and let your eyes feast on the fabulous photographs which include an insight into Carrie’s home which was as enticing as her store. Do get the book, enjoy it and add it to your library. And, by the way, Jerrie and her daughter, Allison V. Smith, will join me in conversation about the book for nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club on February 22nd…it will be a not to be missed event!

Jerrie Marcus Smith

Photos from the book which will be published on November 30th available now for pre-order….it would make a perfect Holiday gift, not only for the fashionista in your life but also for those, on your list, who are interested in family histories, it is a gem!

SATURDAY MUSINGS: MUSIC BOXES AND STRAUSS WALTZES

The Vienna New Year’s Day Concert.

Every year, for as long as PBS has broadcast them (since 1959) I have watched the New Year’s Day concert from Vienna. This year’s was, like everything else, quite different and somewhat strange due to the continuing pandemic. The Vienna Philharmonic played, exquisitely led by our own Riccardo Muti, in the glorious Wiener Musikverein.

Maestro Riccardo Muti

The difference was the orchestra played to an empty hall but had millions of us watching and listening to this annual tradition, now hosted by Hugh Bonneville, who was in the UK. The broadcast will be repeated, in Chicago on WTTW, this Sunday, January 3. It has just been announced that Daniel Barenboim will conduct the 2022 Concert.

Johann Strauss II

This years program was, as usual, mostly Strauss, some of my most favorite music. Why you might ask…from the time I was very young, actually I could say from birth, I was exposed to many types of music in my home. I have always liked classical music, as did my parents…you by now know my taste, in just about everything (including my brain!), is very eclectic that continues in my music choices. At an early age I became obsessed with music boxes and asked Santa for one that played a Strauss waltz. Santa always delivered my wishes and I got a quite charming Swiss music box playing the Strauss waltz, Tales From The Vienna Woods, composed in 1868. https://youtube.com/watch?v=Og3joyCntrI&feature=share

Here is the top of my very old music box which, by the way, still plays!!!! I played it every night to lull me to sleep after Daddy either read me a beloved story or told me his own stories….loved those most of all!!!! Through the ensuing years I always have sound on, when working, reading, doing nothing at all, and even all night. It is truly the background to my life.

The beginnings of music boxes can be traced to Switzerland in 1796 and were small enough to be carried in a pocket, like a watch and often contained a timepiece. The music box as we know it became extremely popular in the mid 1800’s.

A stunning music box

Also, Automatons became highly prized and are now quite collectible

Remember the Monkey Automaton in Phantom of the Opera, it was a pivotal part of the story. He plays the hauntingly beautiful “Masquerade”.

I have, obviously, just scratched the surface of this fascinating subject (perhaps more in-depth research and a second post is in order!) and have mixed several stories in one post….but as I said my thoughts take many, many different directions and I don’t see that changing in this New Year! Stay tuned to see what I’ll explore next!

You knew I’d leave you with a suggested book or two….

All images from Pinterest photo credits unknown. Image of my music box taken with my iPhone.