You, by now, know I love books and since I have had a monthly nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club for years, my reading tends to be skewed to fashion and lifestyle books. One that hit my radar many months ago was this extraordinary book by the brilliant Julie Satow!
When I first read about it I immediately sought out the author to plan a convenient date…that date just happened for our July 2024 meeting. Let’s first discuss my conversation with Julie! Probably what I like most about The Fashion Book Club is my interaction with the authors and Julie was a total delight. Her research and devotion to her subject is without peer! An aside, be sure to read her book The Plaza, spectacular!
What I like most about the book is that it reads like a novel in “fact form”. The research Julie has done is beyond phenomenal and it develops into a fascinating history of retail. The three prominent stores and their female leaders are long gone and, in my opinion, so are their principles of retail. I’m not naive about the state of retail today but was lucky to be in the industry when it was at its peak and the glamour was palpable! This study shows us the excitement of the store experience as well as the struggles of financial behemoths of this fascinating world. The women included were allowed to develop their own concepts of “give the Lady what she wants” with the men in charge giving them pretty much free rein to create new exciting emporiums. Each were inviting their customers to experience the excitement that is the back bone of retail! I, for one, see the need to bring the uniqueness of these ideas back to retail and make it magical once again!
The three woman and their stores profiled….
HORTENSE ODLUM BONWIT TELLER 1934-1940DOROTHY SHAVER LORD AND TAYLOR 1945-1959GERALDINE STUTZ HENRI BENDEL 1957-1986
If you have an interest in the history of fashion, the history of retail, the history of fashion in New York, or in the world of retail finance….this is the book for you. add it to your library you won’t regret it…it’s beyond fascinating…a Master Class of retail!
I want to introduce you to a truly original style icon…Tziporah Salamon who has graciously agreed to answer my nenasnotes questionnaire. Her look is unique and I know you will be mesmerized by her story.
But first I wanted you to know about a very special upcoming event…below is the information about the exciting event the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum is presenting to kick off its 50th Anniversary. The Costume Council supports the outstanding world class costume collection at the Museum and has underwritten its extraordinary exhibitions and events. I have been involved with the Costume Council for most of those 50 years. I hope you can support this event and all the upcoming Anniversary excitement!
TUESDAY, JUNE 11th at the Chicago History Museum
“Join the Costume Council for a special presentation featuring style icon Tziporah Salamon, in the above photo, The Art of Dressing author profiles the chicest and most celebrated older women of today, showcasing their wardrobes and revealing the contents of their closets, while imparting practical tips on how to put together beautiful outfits. Schedule… 5:30 p.m. – Costume Council Annual Meeting (Costume Council members only) 6:00 p.m. – Presentation by Tziporah Salamon 7:30 p.m. – Reception with drinks and light bites Questions? Contact Nell McKeown, development events manager, at mckeown@chicagohistory.org or (312) 799-2112.”
This is going to be a long post so settle back with your drink of choice (you by now know mine is either a glass of red wine or a coupe of bubbles!), you will be fascinated by her incredible story….here we go…
“My parents wedding – right after the war – In Czechoslovakia- she made her dress out of a sheet – he made his suit”
“Purim costume – made by my mother – in some ways. I do Purim everyday!!!”
WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB
First job ever was in high school as a receptionist at a shipping company. I worked after school a few times a week while a senior in high school for extra money. I loved the responsibility of showing up and I actually loved it. I have always loved work – no matter the job!
“Me at 15 – mom made the dress”“Sweet Sixteen with my parents – the Chinese restaurant gave me the Chinese coat to wear for the occasion- a foreshadowing to what I most collect now!”
BRIEFLY DESCRIBE YOUR MOST RECENT OCCUPATION
My recent occupation: I teach a Masterclass called THE ART OF DRESSING in which I actually use my vast collection mainly of antique clothes and accessories to teach the elements of style. I am also the author of a book by the same name, published by Rizzoli.
I am also a model – which I also love. I became a model at age 62, when I was photographed by Steven Meisel in the Lanvin 2012 fall winter collection.
“My first modeling gig – Steven Meisel, Alber Elbas and Pat McGrath – I was 62”
WHEN DID YOU DISCOVER YOUR FIRST IMPRESSION OF YOUR TALENT
I always knew I dressed well. What I didn’t know was that not everyone did.
That was a huge revelation for me. I first noticed it was when I was getting a PhD in psychology and I noticed that even though I had a limited budget being a high school teacher at the time, I was better dressed than my wealthy professors who were successful therapists.
WHEN DID YOU KNOW YOU HAD “MADE IT” EXPLAIN
I am not sure I feel like I made it. I am always growing and evolving. But being recognized and adored and appreciated by Bill Cunningham was the ultimate compliment to me. No one’s word or taste or appreciation meant more.
“Bill and me on 5th Ave – we did not know our photo was being taken. A friend found it on the internet. My favorite photo!”
Except my father’s. And I got that one morning when he was in his 90’s and I was leaving to go to work from his apt one Monday morning, wearing a pair of pants that he altered for me, he looked at me with so much love that I said, “I look good today, don’t I?” And he answered, “you look good everyday!”
“With my papa”
HOW DID YOUR ORIGINAL PASSION BRING YOU TO WHERE YOU ARE NOW
I always loved clothes. As a baby, I would go to sleep and wake up to more clothes – lovingly made for me by both my parents. My mother, a gifted dressmaker, could sew, knit, crochet and embroider and made all my sweaters, dresses, blouses and skirts, while my father, a master tailor , made the coats, pants and jackets. I was equally comfortable dressed as a little girl or a little boy. And as if that wasn’t enough, my aunt in America, after Auschwitz, ended up in NY where over one weekend there was a Jewish dance which she attended as well as a Jewish Texan whom she ended up marrying. He happened to be the vice president of Neiman Marcus so when she found out her favorite brother, my father, was alive, living in Israel and had two little girls she went shopping and did not look at price tags. So from day one, I had on my back the best clothes that hands could make – custom made for me at all ages and sizes – and the best clothes that money could buy. And when we got one of these packages from America – – my mother would invite all the relatives and I eagerly showed off all my new clothes. So here were the seeds for my ART OF DRESSING MASTERCLASS.
Photo by Robbie Quinn
WHAT WOULD HAVE BEEN YOUR ALTERNATE CHOICE AS A CAREER….WAS THERE ONE
I wanted to be a teacher from first day of school and pursued that goal – getting a Masters Degree in education. Then I wanted to be a therapist and pursued that goal by finishing two out of three years towards a PhD in psychology. Now, I am pursuing an acting career.
“Leaving Berkeley where I quit the PhD in psychology to return to NY to pursue fashion – 1979 -29 years old”“5 years later – 1984 – for NY Magazine- photos by Cheryl Koralik @cherylkoralik”
TALK A BIT ABOUT YOUR BOOK AND ADVANCED STYLE…THE BOOK AND FILM
Advanced Style, the book, shows photos of women advanced in years and advanced in style – all of us over 60. Advance Style Documentary focuses on 7of us NY women all over the age of 60. I was the youngest at age 62 and the oldest was age 82. The filmmaker, Lina Plioplyte , followed each of us separately and together for 3 years and then she and Ari Seth Cohen, the producer and writer of the books made this film.
ADVANCED STYLE THE BOOK AND THE FILM
My book, THE ART OF DRESSING, published by Rizzoli, is a how to book with beautiful photos of me and 10 other women all over the age of 60 in which I break down each woman’s personal style and why it works. The book, with beautiful illustrations as well as photographs goes over the elements of style – color, texture, proportion, silhouette, rhythm; story and how to incorporate them in your dressing.
“Recent glamour shot by Iris Brosch”
YOUR FAVORITE BOOK, MOVIE, LIST THE FOLLOWING,IN ORDER OF PREFERENCE…THEATER (LEGIT, MUSICALS), BALLET, OPERA, SYMPHONY…TYPE OF MUSIC YOU LIKE TO LISTEN TO…FAVORITE RESTAURANT
Favorite book:
I loved so many…War & Peace; The Fountainhead; A Tree Grows in Brooklyn: Middlemarch
Favorite movie:
Splendor in the Grass; Doctor Zhivago; Reds; Flowers of Shanghai; Auntie Mame
In order of preferences:
Theatre , especially musicals
Opera
Ballet
Symphony
Type of music – all music – from opera to rock’n’roll – country western, waltzes
Perry Como, Bruce Springsteen; the Mavericks; Shlomo Carlebach; Hebrew music; Arabic music; Irish ballads; Enya; Bach
HOBBIES….
Playing with clothes
Biking and blasting my favorite music
“Above photos taken by Ike Ude, done in one afternoon”“One of my favorite fashion shoots with Robbie Quinn”
Home is definitely antiques and eclectic. Lots of color – shawls, bags, hats, shoes, fringe artfully displayed throughout the apt
WHO WOULD YOU HAVE AT YOUR FANTASY DINNER (LIVING OR DEAD AND BE SURE TO INCLUDE YOURSELF!) AND WHAT WOULD YOU SERVE (10-12 GUESTS)
Charlie Chaplin; Paul Newman; Myrna Loy; Marlena Dietrich; Clark Gable; Einstein; Golda Meir; Ziva Sirkis, one of the women in my book and my second “mother”; Shakespeare; Emily Dickinson; Cecil B DeMille and myself
Dinner would be spreads of all kinds on crackers and bread for starters
Cheese and fruit laid out
Bowls of fresh salads, sliced tomatoes, sliced avocados,
Roasted potatoes
Roasted brussel sprouts
Roasted beets
Grilled cauliflower
Wild salmon
Pea soup
Fresh cherries
Fresh figs
Fresh grapes
FAVORITE VACATION SPOT VISITED AND/OR ON YOUR GO TO LIST
I loved Jamaica when I visited but I also love Paris and Italy and Greece and, of course, my homeland, my beloved Israel
WHAT DO YOU ENJOY DOING MOST IN YOUR FREE TIME?
Going for bike rides
Exploring the city
Going to museums
Playing with clothes
Going to the movies – especially at the Film Forum and Lincoln Center
FAVORITE WORK OF PUBLIC ART
I loved Christo’s and Jeanne Claude’s THE GATES. It had a profane affect on my as my father had just passed on Feb 20, 2005 and I sat Shiva for him in Brooklyn, in Brighton Beach where he lived and died. After a week of sitting, came back to my neighborhood on the upper west side and went for a walk in Central Park, towards Bergdorf’s, where my father had been a tailor from age 77-85. Seeing the gates – that bright orange fabric blowing in the wind and surviving the snow and chill and elements brought me back to life. They were like sentient beings welcoming me home.
HOW WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE REMEMBERED
As someone who lived fully, loved fully and was authentically herself!
FAVORITE LINKS YOU WOULD LIKE TO INCLUDE
Love the following people on Instagram and follow regularly:
Givenchy Nouvelle Boutique Ensemble, 1970s , LOT 240 Sybil Connolly Black Dress, 1970s, Property from the Collection of Kay Krehbiel , LOT 113 Carolina Herrera Jacket Worn by Nena Ivon, c. 2007, LOT 91
I am having a fascinating adventure, I have a garment in the upcoming Hindman Fall Fashion auction on October 3rd! It’s my first auction…I’ve sold garments in the past with local resale stores and most of my special pieces are either in the Costume Collection of the Chicago History Museum or in the Fashion Study Collection at Columbia College Chicago. I asked Tanner Branson, the newly appointed Specialist, Head of Sale, Luxury Handbags & Couture and this is his first auction… (more on him later in this post) to look at the piece I thought would be a good fit to see if there was any interest in putting it in the sale. I got an immediate yes!
From that moment on learned the procedures of an auction….terms of the sale, contracts to be read and signed, confirmations sent via email. I also reviewed the description of the garment along with my brief bio…all that was left was to see the online catalog which went “live” this week….now on to the bidding…fingers crossed!
Here is the Carolina Herrera garment I wore for Mrs. Herrera’s appearance at Saks Fifth Avenue Chicago in 2007. It is quite the stunner and I only wore it that one time. Why in the world, you might ask, did I make the decision to send my fabulous piece to auction, quite simple, I no longer lead the lifestyle of going to charity luncheons, glamorous cocktail events, opening nights…well you get the picture! Having it hang in my closet when someone else can enjoy it…why not. I’ll have to do a good rummage to see what else might be of interest!
Here I am with Mrs. Herrera when she was being honored by the Fashion Group International, Chicago, many years ago. Love her, I always found working with her to be a dream. Photo from my collection.
Here is the link and a description of the auction…
“Hindman’s Fall Fashion auction on October 3rd features over 250 lots of high fashion and luxury handbags from leading houses including Hermès, Chanel, and Louis Vuitton amongst others. Headlining the auction are three exceptional Hermès handbags, a Birkin 30 in ostrich, a Birkin 35 in Clemence calfskin, and a Kelly 28. The auction has a powerful collection of Hermès including a Snakes & Ladders game from 2013. Also featuring property from the personal wardrobe of Kay Krehbiel, the collection contains accessories by Judith Leiber and Hermès and a rare gown designed by Irish fashion designer Sybil Connolly. In addition, the auction also features examples of Haute Couture garments by Christian Dior, Chanel, and Givenchy dating from the 1950-1980s.”
A Birkin Bag in the auction Hermès Snakes and Ladders Game Pucci garments in the auction. . I had the privilege of working with Emilio Pucci on several occasions a unique creator and a true joy to work with!Of course a fabulous Chanel bag!Givenchy Ensemble, 1975, LOT 238 and yes, I worked with M. Givenchy!
Previews are by appointment only on September 28th and 29th and October 2nd. The sale is October 3rd….Contact: Tannerbranson@hindmanauctions.com
A nenasnote I’ve known the founder, Leslie Hindman, for decades and could not be happier for her successes over the years…the company has grown into a Internationally respected auction house….here are further details…
“Hindman is a leading fine art auction house connecting cities nationwide to the global art market. With offices and salerooms throughout the country, Hindman conducts over 140 auctions annually in all major fine art and luxury collecting categories, while offering buyers and sellers an exceptional experience across multiple selling channels and price points.
Hindman’s team of experts is dedicated to maintaining the highest standards of ethics and integrity in the industry. Driven by this client-first approach, Hindman provides collectors, fiduciaries, and institutions with a comprehensive suite of services including auctions, appraisals, private sales, and art advisory.
Hindman was formed through the merger of two premier auction houses, Leslie Hindman Auctioneers (est. 1982) and Cowan’s Auctions (est. 1995). For over 40 years Hindman has built a reputation as a market leader by providing outstanding service and achieving record results. Hindman is headquartered in Chicago with 15 additional locations serving clients coast to coast.”
Now a bit about Tanner….I first met him as a student (one of mine!) when he attended Columbia College Chicago and during his time working in their Fashion Study Collection. We have become friends over the years. The history and preservation of clothing is, in my opinion, part of his DNA! I look forward to seeing what wonderful treasures he will find to bring to all of through Hindman!
Tanner Branson Specialist , Head of Sale, Luxury Handbags & Couture
From Tanner’s promotion announcement….
“As the Head of Sale of the Luxury Handbag & Accessories Department at Hindman, he will oversee the department’s four-yearly auctions, liaise with clients nationwide in evaluating their couture, and assist with appraisals. He will support Hindman Chicago’s headquarters and their well-established regional offices around the country to further develop the firm’s commitment to luxury goods.
His journey in the luxury market has taken him to many places. he brings with him a decade of experience working with iconic brands such as The Row and Brunello Cuccinellifor Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. In curating his client’s personal and public wardrobes, he was given the opportunity to work with a rich collection of garments and expand his professional acumen. These experiences have honed his ability to understand the finer nuances of luxury and cater to the preferences of clients who appreciate the art of fashion.
Additionally, he am proud to be affiliated with various auxiliary boards, including the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum. His academic background, which includes a bachelor’s degree in Fashion Business from Columbia College Chicago (with a personal focus on fashion and textile history), fuels his passion for preserving the stories held within each garment and accessory.
In keeping with Hindman’s commitment to exceptional service, he is excited to connect with clients across the country.”
As usual this is not a sponsored post…I don’t have sponsors…if interested in sponsorships contact me.
All photos, unless otherwise noted, courtesy of Hindman.
I have been collecting fashion books since high school so needless to say a very long time! I followed fashion magazines long before that…I come from a family of magazine lovers, as well as major bibliophiles! so no surprise. This is the first fashion book I got, I decided to go downtown after school, actually Michigan Avenue, to my favorite bookseller at the time, Main Street Book Store, mid-1950’s, to get the book. I talked Mom into joining me and we could then meet Daddy for supper at one of our favorite restaurants, A Bit Of Sweden….their smorgasbord was perfection….loved it.
Since that time, both establishments are long gone, my fashion library has grown to around 1000 tomes! I have most of them listed on the fabulous site, LibraryThing http://www.librarything.com they also have an app. I still have many more to add. It’s truly a full time job! As you know I have hosted a monthly nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club since 2018, you do the math as to how many I’ve added in 5 1/2 years! I do add those as I get them and have them all together. Just a note on how I house these books…I have them either by designer…think Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent…or by theme such as Hollywood Costumes, French Designers, American Designers, Monographs, Novels, Biographies, Autobiographies, Anthologies…you get the idea. I have many first editions, many signed and many personalized. One of my treasures is a Godey’s Lady’s Book given to me by a dear friend…I found it in a vintage bookstore in Stratford, Canada.
Everywhere I go I seek out bookstores or antique shops and have found lots of treasures. I have also found several at our own Randolph Street Market (it’s celebrating its 20th Anniversary this year at its season opening May 27th and 28th). https://www.randolphstreetmarket.com
I’m hoping to house the collection at the Chicago History Museum in their research center. I want to leave it as a collection…if I find they aren’t interested I’ll seek another institution. Perhaps a fashion school. Need to do more research on that.
Now let’s look at what’s ahead for nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club…as usual, for most months, I’ll be in conversation with the authors. All via zoom.
APRIL 2023
MAY 2023
JUNE 2023
JULY 2023 TWO BOOKS NOT WITH AUTHORS
Met Museum Exhibition Book
AUGUST 2023
All the nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club selections are available at my partner Independent Bookseller https://www.thebookstall.com I’m always open to book suggestions and be sure to stay tuned for upcoming reviews on these selections….happy fashionable reading!!!!!
It’s always a treat to be able to get to know a designer better….such is the case with Peter Dundas. Peter is the 2022 recipient of the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum Designer of Excellence Award. More on the event celebrating him below. I wanted to ask Peter to do my usual Profile Questionnaire….instead I sent him special questions which he graciously took time from his Norwegian get away to answer for me.
When you think of the DUNDAS brand you immediately think celebrity dressing….let’s see what he has cooked up for next weeks Met Gala, I’m sure more showstoppers! Most recently, one of this year’s Super Bowl half time stars, Mary J. Blige wowed us not only with her performance but her incredible fashion…Dundas, of course!
His exquisite sketch…The garment in action!
Let’s hear from the creator….
Your garments are always showstoppers….how did you transition from ready to wear to designing for celebrities with custom pieces?
Thank you. Dressing celebrities came very naturally because they actually chose me. They started wearing pieces from my ready to wear collection and little by little the requests for custom looks started to come in. Custom pieces are not necessarily so different from ready to wear for me really. I want every person who wears my designs to look and feel amazing. I think fashion is about giving confidence and that appeals to everyone.
The Carters at a Met Gala
Beyoncé
Did you always know you wanted to be a designer, when did you discover your talent? Which of your time with other brands did you enjoy the most?
I always knew I loved fashion. It was partly a need because my widowed father had no clue how kids dressed and partly because of the pure love of color, the fantasy and later the sex appeal. I had my first manual sewing machine at 6 or 7 but coming from a family of mainly doctors I felt I needed to pursue something more serious for a profession. The decision that the love of this craft could not be ignored came when it was time for college. All of a sudden it appeared as the only path to take. The only path that would make me happy After art school I was incredibly lucky to land a top job in Paris at my then favourite designer; Jean-Paul Gaultier and I haven’t looked back since. I have had many incredible moments in many different places like Pucci in Italy, Lacroix and Ungaro in Paris, and at Cavalli twice, so it might be unfair to choose just one brand. Cavalli however was uniquely incredible because we were riding so high. Pucci was great too and we have had some amazing moments with DUNDAS.
Ready to wear collection
Have you always done your own sketches…they are stunning.
Thank you. I sketch constantly. I always carry a pen. Today most of the sketches I publish are finished electronically mixing photorealism with my own illustration and for this I get a little help. Electronic illustrations facilitate communication, and for custom work it’s especially useful as you understand the garment better. Next is NFT’s which we started doing after the Super Bowl Halftime show with Mary J. Blige. Doing those and creating wearables accessible to anyone creates an even broader outreach that I think is very exciting and important for tomorrow.
Beyoncé 2017
How do you unwind, hard I’m sure with two little ones!
We are busier than ever but sometimes it’s about a change of pace or a change of scenery. My favourite time to unwind are summer breaks at our cottage on the Greek island of Naxos. It’s special because I built it; it has a huge fruit and vegetable garden where we make our own olive oil and can live off the fat of the land literally. It’s a healthy break from the urban existence. On a daily basis giving our son Alexios his evening bath is now probably one of my favourite moments and gets my mind off the business of dresses.
I’m obsessed with your personal style…tell me a little about how you have developed it.
I think I am a frustrated child of the 70’s. The mood-boards for my collections are always filled with images of rockstars from that era. Blondie, Pat Benatar, Keith Richards, Led Zeppelin and of course Cher. It’s my favorite era to be inspired by so naturally it trickles down to how I look and dress.
With Ciara wearing a gown inspired by her husband, Russel Willson’s football jersey at last years Met Gala
Last question…I always ask this question of people I’m profiling….tell me about your dream dinner party, who would be on our your guest list (living or dead) 10 to 12 people and what would you serve (my readers love celebrity recipes!)
Wow that’s a loaded question hmm. My guests would be:
-My partner Evangelo of course
-Halston
-Yves Saint Laurent, both are my heros
-Melissa McCarthy for laughs
-Oprah because she is Oprah
-Bill Gates because he is an amazing entrepreneur who also cares about doing good
-Audrey Hepburn because she was a fashion icon when I was a kid watching old movies with my Dad
-The Dalai Lama for his wisdom
-Queen Elizabeth, I heard she is fun
-Rihanna as she is one of the most beautiful women I know and love to dress
-My mother because I didn’t really know her growing up
-At last God because she is of course always welcome
I would serve caviar on baked potato & champagne which is what I crave right this minute and then profiteroles with hot chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream!
With partner, Evangelo Bousis
Peter, thank you so much for taking time to answer my questions. They give all of us a wonderful glimpse into The World of Peter Dundas. May I offer my congratulations on receiving the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum 2022 Designer of Excellence Award.
PRESS RELEASE: THE COSTUME COUNCIL OF THE CHICAGO HISTORY MISEUM PRESENTS THE 2022 DESIGNER OF EXCELLENCE AWARD TO PETER DUNDAS ON WEDNESDAY, MAY 4th AT THE LANGHAM HOTEL
“The Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum is pleased to announce an exciting evening honoring celebrity fashion designer Peter Dundas, as he receives our Designer of Excellence Award. His illustrious fashion career serving as Creative Director for Emmanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, and Roberto Cavalli has shaped a global experience leading top fashion houses.
His eponymous brand, DUNDAS, launched in unconventional style debuting with Beyoncé Knowles at the 2017 Grammy Awards. Created in partnership with Evangelo Bousis, a Chicago native, DUNDAS continuously delivers notable, couture red carpet looks for celebrities: Shakira, Ciara, Kim Kardashian, Heidi Klum, Mary J. Blige, H.E.R., Emily Ratajkowski and many more.”
Honorary Co-Chairs: Brian Atwood, Evangelo Bousis, and Nick Cave
“The Designer of Excellence Awards is a fundraiser to benefit the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum and has a rich history in our organization as an important pillar of designer recognition in Chicago. The Museum has more than 50,000 pieces of fashion in its archives and is one of the largest repositories in the world. Brian Atwood, Evangelo Bousis, and Nick Cave are this year’s honorary co-chairs. Over the years, the Awards have honored James Galanos, Geoffrey Beene, Christian Lacroix, Sonia Rykiel, Hubert de Givenchy, Bill Blass, Ralph Rucci, Bob Mackie, Carolina Herrera, and this year, we are thrilled to honor Peter Dundas. All proceeds benefit the Chicago History Museum for exhibition and curatorial needs to preserve the costume collection.”
I find it beyond fascinating how many interesting people you can encounter on social media and also how lovely it is to make new friends who enjoy many of the same things that you do. Elizabeth Kirkpatrick aka The Vintage Contessa is exactly one of those people and I wanted to share her story with you! I asked her to do The nenasnotes Questionnaire and she immediately agreed. The following is Part 1 of her responses (she writes her fabulous blog, http://thevintagecontessa.net/ in ALL CAPS and has asked me to keep “ALL CAPS” that she has used for her answers!) I know you will be fascinated with her stories and be charmed and intrigued with her breathtakingly gorgeous photos….enjoy!
In the garden
nenasnotes QUESTION….WHEN READING YOUR BLOG POSTS I NOTED THAT YOU HAVE HAD MANY INCARNATIONS….WHICH HAS BEEN YOUR FAVORITE AND WHY
INCARNATIONS? That is an interesting observation, but I do believe you are correct! As a child I wanted to be a BALLERINA or a VET. That did not come to fruition. Then I worked in FASHION RETAIL Then Wholesale, The Gucci Accessory Collection. We sold to the Specialty stores and Department stores. That is how I met my husband of 36 years. We worked for a woman who had the distribution for the United States and Canada. Then married in Florence, Italy in 1986. Then I became a MOTHER to TWO BEAUTIFUL SONS. Then an Antique/Vintage Collector which became a store front. After they grew up a bit I opened a shop that sold antiques and vintage for 12 years. Last came the BLOG :THEVINTAGECONTESSA.NET. Then Instagram hit! I found people who had similar passions as myself. Plus I was OVER 50 so The ADVANCED STLE movement enticed me! I thought what ARI SETH COHEN https://www.advanced.style was doing was FANTASTIC. To answer your question about which one was my favorite I would say being a MOTHER and being married to THE ITALIAN in SAN MINIATO AL MONTE in Florence,Italy. Can I have TWO PLEASE? A Nena’s Note….yes, you can!
With THE ITALIAN
Photo by Ari Seth Cohen, Elizabeth with Bansky….more on him later!
As time goes by I get MORE and More ECCENTRIC.For example when the Boys were younger I would wear long skirts with sweatshirts mind you the skirts I found in the consignment shops were usually TAFFETA! The shoes were always running shoesAs a young woman and still today I get comments like “Where are you going all dressed up?”And I think to myself I am NOT DRESSED UP at all. I get stopped often in the Produce section of the grocery store a lot by older men saying thank you for dressing up……..you remind be of days gone by.
WHEN WAS YOUR FIRST IMPRESSION OF YOUR TALENT? TALENT! I wouldn’t say I have talent, but I do have a good eye whether it be clothing, interiors or gardens. My “talent” for clothing was born from looking at VOQUE and HARPERS BAZAAR and TOWN & COUNTRY at a young age. I did DREAM of being a model or SHOWGIRL like a ROCKETTE as I loved the HEADWEAR. Feathers & Rhinestones were HEAVEN to me! I should have been in theater! I would have adored CECIL BEATON.I really have Never Changed from that young girl. Most of my DREAMS have been fulfilled.
WHEN DID YOU KNOW YOU HAD “MADEIT”EXPLAIN…I do not think “I HAVE MADE IT YET” I keep plugging along. Once my sons left I was a LOST SOUL.I have kept doing what I love. The garden the clothing and collecting stuff. I did make it in THE CLOSET DEPARTMENT however! As we had a very small closet we shared. I kept complaining about how I needed more space! My ITALIAN built an addition to the 1940’s house for all my clothes.
THE CLOSET!
HOW DID YOUR ORIGINAL PASSION BRING YOU TO WHERE YOU ARE NOW…AND WHEN DID YOU DEVELOP YOUR UNIQUE STYLE MY MOTHER! I have always LOVED antiques. I would shop with my MOTHER at a very young age. My first collections were OLD KEYS & BOTTLES. I still have an old milk bottle from those days and a set of old keys that have faces on them. If I remember correctly they were $12.00. I thought about INTERIOR DESIGN but the drawing scared me. I remember when TONY DUQUETTE lived down the street from us in San Francisco. Since then I have met many decorators at Book signings, Anita Campell, Timothy Corrigan, Charlotte Moss, Paul Wiseman Princess Michael of Kent and Hutton Wilkinson. I actually was invited to DAWNRIDGE for lunch with his wife as he was out of town. That was an experience I will never forget! I still love ballet, animals and clothing. I am still SHOPPING when most people are CLEANING out! I have found “MY PEOPLE” on BLOG’s and INSTAGRAM who rock MY WORLD. Who actually “GET ME!” Another Nena’s Note, I profiled Hutton, awhile ago, and also did a review on his book DAWNRIDGE!
One of her new finds….the monogram caftan, details are on her site!
TALK A BIT ABOUT YOUR “MENAGERIE” I LOVE ANIMALS. I always wanted a farm. My mother was from INDIANA and would tell me about the runt of the litter sleeping by the stove in the kitchen when she was growing up. By age ten I had a chicken that turned into a rooster! My Father was not an animal person, however somehow we always had a cat. No dogs. I had rabbits outside and was ALWAYS building a BARN. Today I have a dog and a cat who is missing at the moment and a TEA CUP pig that lives in THE HOUSE! He is THE BEST ANIMAL I have ever owned. They are very clean. They are very smart. He learned the doggie door in ONE DAY! He eats very little to be honest like 1/3 of a cup of piggy pellets with a fruit or vegetable! Twice a day. The vegetables MUST BE COOKED! I also save the old bread and soak it. Of course when he goes OUTSIDE it must be warm enough and NO RAIN he will graze in the garden! He learned the first year NOT TO EAT MAMMA’s ROSES! He understands” NO” very well! He has his second dinner with us at the table at night. A bite of salad or vegetable NO MEAT! He has his own FORK…SILVER ANTIQUE which is placed on a KINFE REST so we do not get it confused with OURS! He comes when I call! He also sprints around the house and has NEVER broken a thing!MY house is PACKED with STUFF! Sometimes the cat and the dog and the pig all dine with us at the table waiting their turn! Somehow he knows when dinner is over as he heads to bed or wants a TUMMY RUB! As he heads to bed in the living room I ask for a kiss and he turns his head to oblige me! I get the NOSE as the mouth is un-reachable!
With Bansky
At The Louvre
I thought this would be a good place to stop for today, and wouldn’t we love to be dressed up at the Louvre right this very minute…..there is lots more to come…stay tuned for Part 2
First of all a confession, I have never, to my knowledge, read a Romance Novel. No Barbara Cartland, no Harlequin, and no Julia Quinn. That statement will, probably need some research, to see exactly what a romance novel really is. In my mind’s eye it is the bodice ripping damsels, shirtless rogues gracing the covers of said books, perhaps I’m wrong! For an example in other genres Louise Penny is often listed in Cozy Mystery round ups…I don’t think of her fabulous books as “cozy” but that’s just me!
Well you might ask why am I doing this post…the answer is I have become addicted to the newseries BRIDGERTON on NETFLIX (FYI this isn’t a sponsored post, I’m not fortunate enough to have sponsors, with the New Year approaching maybe that will change….I live in hope!). I must admit I am totally enjoying it.
Why, for several reasons which I will get into in a minute. Let me begin at the beginning with the first episode. I started watching because I am a major Anglophile and enjoy most English period pieces. The Regency period intrigues me with its manners, clothing, interiors, gardens, etc. again more later. We all know this has been an extremely challenging year and I wasn’t looking forward to Christmas which all of a sudden arrived. I usually go to a new movie on Christmas Day with friends, obviously this wasn’t happening this year but there were lots of choices to watch (read this as what to stream) and I choose BRIDGERTON. Almost immediately I said to myself, “this seems to be a live action romance novel and I seem to be enjoying it!” I needed something pretty to look at, I certainly found that and with “romance” thrown in. Is it a bit silly, sure, does it draw you in, yep, do you want to know how the characters evolve, absolutely. This isn’t WAR AND PEACE, it’s an escapist fantasy.
Now for some of the interiors, not necessary period authentic (think the Kristen Durst Marie Antoinette film, hardly correct but totally delightful).
The costumes identify the characters (that is the point after all!)….the socially established, understatement and soft colors and the nouveau riche, bold color and pattern.
Lots of feathers, fans, fluttering, flirty, fainting…manners, etiquette, duels, balls, court intrigue…marrying well (usually to improve the family’s fortune), gossip, lots of gossip, it has it all. It most certainly isn’t a documentary, just a fun interlude in our current very dismal year. Watch it for the fun of it and perhaps you too might become a Romance Novel convert!
Photos courtesy Pinterest photo credit unknown. Mostly still from NETFLIX.
Victor’s Birthday Dinner Chez Ivon long ago. One of my favorite photos of us. My photo, published for the first time
Sweetheart, Baby, Angel, Dearest, Darling…..(each comma represents a pause!) how I will miss these words on my phone early on so many mornings….followed by “Its Victor”…my answer, always, who else would it be! And always notes for reasons or just a hello….he did those for many of his friends, I treasure mine.
This was our greeting for decades. Was each and every decade stress free, of course not, no relationship no matter how close you are doesn’t have bumps and, yes, we had bumps, but the “bumpless” times were so very special. I wanted to share all the good times…and there were many!
At a Fashion Group International Chicago gala honoring the Ferragamos Photo credit: Robert Carl.
My dear, special friend of so many, many years and so many, many memories, left us this year on April 4th to join his dear family and friends such as Hubert de Givenchy, Estée Lauder, Joan Weinstein, Jovanna Papadakis to name just a few to make Heaven even more glamorous…….you know he is busy organizing the angels into perfect photo shoots…on that you can be sure.
Shown with Estée Lauder, photo credit unknown.
In retrospect, I can’t remember when we first became friends nor why we were comfortable sharing confidences and champagne, but we were and we did!! Over many, many dinners at RL and La Scarola (the last time I saw him was at dinner there) or my home, we talked about anything and everything. An afternoon benefit at the Chicago Hilton, photo credit unknown.
We often went to events together and he was sure to include me when he was receiving many of his special honors.
Back in the discotheque days….the 1960’s/1970’s we would meet, along with everyone else, on the weekends at the Disc de Maxim’s, I supplied the dresses for the DJ…it was the place to see and be seen. Or the evenings spent listening to Bobby Short or Shelley MacArthur at the Gold Sardine Bar. Great fun times.
Nancy Goldberg’s Maxim’s de Paris at the Astor Towers. Beyond gorgeous…here the staircase from the main floor into the restaurant and the dance floor.
Photos found on Pinterest credit unknown.
I had the honor of planning the special dinner at the Chicago Cultural Center after he received his Honorary Degree from Columbia College Chicago, one of the only times that a degree was bestowed outside of Graduation ceremonies making it even more special.
1995 Columbia College Chicago Honorary Degree evening. Photographer unknown. From my collection.
Lucky me that I became a friend of one of the major artists of the 20th and 21st Centuries.
When did this friendship begin…I can’t pin point the exact year, Victor was a well known photographer and Major Influencer when I started at Saks Fifth Avenue Chicago. I think the first time I was invited into his Circle of Friends was at the Chicago premier of the 1969 film The Damed. I was invited to a private screening at the screening room at The Chicago Theater and to the reception after. It was a small group at the screening…the movie was eagerly anticipated and I was beyond thrilled to be included. Well, dear friends, I don’t shock easily but I must tell you, I was beyond shocked by the film, so much so I have never seen it again. Since it was such a small group I couldn’t get up and leave. I guess I should like it, I do admire Visconti’s work. Well there is more to this story…the reception was upstairs at Gene & Georgetti’s (I’m so pleased they are back with us after their fire and the “plague” closings). As you got to the top of the stairs you were immersed in the decadent “Cabaret Scene” from the film, I was beside myself. Perhaps if I hadn’t been so undone by the film I might have found it less distasteful and across the room was one of the stars, Helmut Berger who kept staring at me….gave me chills! If you haven’t seen the film do so and you will get what I’m talking about. I wonder if I’ll find it not as shocking now???!!!
Flash forward to 1984 when I received a telegraph (remember those) from Town and Country requesting that I report to the Skrebneski Studio on such and such a date at such and such a time to have my photo taken for an upcoming story in the magazine on The Costume Council of the Chicago Historical Society (as the Museum was called then) . Victor did exquisite editorial spreads for T&C for years, some of my most favorite images are from those issues. Well, of course, I thought this was some kind of a joke. I immediately called Dennis Minkel, Victor’s Assistant and a long time dear friend of mine. I had been working with him on many shoots when they needed clothing and/or accessories. He assured me it wasn’t a joke and to wear a favorite dress, preferably a day garment since the other Executive Committee members would be in cocktail and evening gowns. They would supply the hair and makeup artists and the jewelry. I was stunned, excited, honored and perplexed being the only “non-socialite” in the group. I was, at the time serving as Acquisitions Chair. As I recall I was the last shoot of the day. I arrived as scheduled in my “uniform” a mock turtleneck black chemise by Adolfo. My hair was long at the time and it was fashioned into a classic French Twist. I am photographed in front of period gowns from the Costume Collection in a double page spread. Let’s talk a minute about how Victor worked, the set ups took time but he knew exactly what shot he wanted and where the fold of the magazine would happen, therefore the two pages always were seamless not so with other photographers nor magazine editors. Just one example of his brilliance. And it’s one shot and done. The photo looks quite simple, it was anything but….to get the angle he wanted, and by the way he loved profiles….so that is how you see me, I don’t love my profile but who am I to say…he had positioned my legs in an awkward position, so much so that I pulled a muscle. I don’t think I ever told him that!!!! My hair looks dark due to the dramatic Skrebneski lighting. Lighting was one of his signatures. And here is the finished photo
This framed copy was on my office wall from 1984 until I retired in 2009, it is now part of the Nena Ivon Archives at Columbia College Chicago. All of us were taken to Les Nomades for an elegant dinner with the T&C editors and a bottle of Kristal was sent to each of us with a lovely note. What an extraordinary once in a lifetime experience…..I, of course, thought this was my one and only Skrebneski photo session…..wrong again…..
Stay tuned for Part 2 and probably Part 3 of this story.
Elizabeth Arden, Estée Lauder, Bobbi Brown, Trish McEvoy, Jo Malone, The Kardashians, Pat McGrath, Madame C.J. Walker….the list goes on…are all familiar, extremely successful, innovative women in the beauty business.Make-up, skin care and well being have been with us through the centuries and are multi-billion dollar contributors to the International economy.That being said if we look back to the early twentieth century we would find a mostly male dominated industry until two women changed all that….Elizabeth Arden and today’s subject, Helena Rubenstein.
Today’s review is HELENA RUBENSTEIN, THE ADVENTURE OF BEAUTY, published by Flammarion.It is dividend into seven chapters, (each written by a different author, a brilliant concept), has a detailed biography, list of exhibition works and a bibliography along with a magnificent collection of photographs, many published for the first time.Is it a scholarly book, yes, but it reads like the best of fiction…that being a real life and one that was well lived. I must admit I don’t do negative reviews primarily because I don’t finish a book if it isn’t interesting to me…this one fills all my requirements for a successful book.
It gives us an extraordinary in-depth look at a self made person who believed in the beauty, not only of her clients, but of art, fashion, jewels and most importantly the beauty of wellbeing.
Born in 1872 in Krakow, Poland the cosmetic titan, art patron, fashionista died in 1965 in New York City (she was buried in Yves Saint Laurent Couture).She immigrated to Australia in 1896 and makes her own beauty cream copying one her mother gave her, she launches the cream in 1901 and it is an instant success.She follows this success with opening the first of her beauty salons.
I really enjoyed the detailed timelines at the beginning of the book and since my space is limited for this review, my focus is on the chapter Helena Rubenstein and Fashion.
Barely five feet tall she wore Couture, first from Worth, Jacques Doucet and Paul Poiret to Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and, of course, Chanel and Schiaparelli…all of whom she befriended. Her stature belied what we think of as the ideal fashion figure.Her taste, style and self confidence made her thin and six feet tall. Her feeling for why she dressed to perfection “I have to look good for the business.”
No detail escaped her discerning eye and she collected Couture the same way she collected jewelry, usually large pieces, art and homes, only the best would do.
Included in this chapter is a piece entitled “Why I Love Jewels” a hand written document in her archives…in my opinion, a masterwork and I quote the last line, “Yes, jewels are indeed a girl’s best friend, not, necessarily because of their value — which helps — but because they lend the ‘just right’ note to a woman’s femininity and individuality.”
One has to admire Rubenstein’s joie de vivre and her entrepreneurial ambition.I highly recommend the book, fascinating, engaging and insightful.
Nena Ivon, nenasnotes, original review, February 2020, exclusively for The Fashion Map
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THE BLACK LEATHER JACKET…..ALWAYS CLASSIC ALWAYS NEW
Repost with permission from the Randolph Street Market blog. A reminder the last outdoor vendor portion of this year round market is Saturday and Sunday, September 28 and 29, 2019. Do go it is chocked full of treasures in vintage clothing and everything else under the sun!
From “Greasers” to high fashion and everything in between, let’s look at where the leather jacket began and see it developed into a fashion wardrobe classic.
Obviously leather has been with us for centuries but the jacket we are featuring today we are tracing back to “modern” history.
The brown leather jacket made its entrance on the scene on the aviators of World War I.
Then again for the air women and men as the Bomber jacket for WWII.
In 1928 Irving Schott designs the first motorcycle jacket and sells it for $5.50 at the Harley Davidson store in New York. He named it after his favorite cigar, The Perfecto. And perfect it was, on and off motorcycles.
In 1953 The Wild One starred a sexy Marlon Brando in a classic leather motorcycle jacket. Often the jacket became its own character.
And other stars jumped on the bike, so to speak, definitely defying the norm and defining the person on and off the screen…James Dean
Steve McQueen…..
Tom Cruise….
Elvis, of course…..
Henry Winkler before he was The Fonz (notice Stallone) in The Lords of Flatbush…
And as Fonzie….
And then there was Grease…..(my era!)
The Beatles before suits and Ringo….
The English Punks and, of course Sid and Nancy and The Sex Pistols…
The one and only Michael Jackson…
.
From the outrageous to….David Beckham….
And so many more celebrities….
Three blonds….Madonna, Glenn, Lady Gaga…..who wears it best, I’ll leave it to you…
Haute Couture, why not….a bit of Schiaparelli…
Some embellished jackets…they have come a long way baby, how shall you embellish your Randolph Street Market Finds…..so many options…here are a few suggestions…
I must admit my favorite of the bunch, although the feathered piece or hand painted or……
Let’s look at a few ways to style and update your vintage jacket…..
(Original Caption) Model in long jupe and leather jacket. (Photo by Pierre Vauthey/Sygma/Sygma via Getty Images)
I’m obsessed with this on Elizabeth Moss…
Robert Mapplethorpe Self Portrait…a recent Retrospective at New York’s Guggenheim Museum.
For your own research some books (you knew I would have some suggestions didn’t you!)
The one and only Ralph Lauren who exemplifies “Always Classic Always New”
And your blogger in one of four black leather jackets, a motorcycle piece needs to be added if only to embellish!!!!! RSM here I come!!
All photos with the exception of the one of me, from Pinterest photos credits unknown.
At a Fashion Group International Chicago gala honoring the Ferragamos Photo credit: Robert Carl.
An afternoon benefit at the Chicago Hilton, photo credit unknown.
