Here is the perfect addition to your fashion library as well as an amazing gift!
I don’t know why books that accompany exhibitions are called catalogues when they give us wonderful insights into our history….this book does that to perfection! It is the companion of the current (through July 27, 2025) exhibition at the Chicago History Museum. The exhibition features 70 pieces from the huge world class costume collection (over 50,000 items!) at CHM. Just a very small sample chosen by 4 past curators of the collection. It features a short essay by each of the curators.
The cover gives you a preview of what is housed in our extraordinary collection….from Abe Lincoln’s top hat to one of only three Paul Poiret Sorbet garments in the world (too fragile to be shown but the illustration is featured see below illustration) to a Judith Leiber minaudière featuring the iconic Marshall Field’s clock to Sally Rand’s fans! The reason for the book and exhibition is to celebrate the 50 years of the Costume Council!
Christian Dior gown circa 1949 worn by Ms. Jeanne B. Heinzelman, née Jeanne Brucker to the 1949 Passavant Cotillion
Fans, c. 1966. Ostrich feathers, plastic, wood. Maybelle Shearer, Chicago. Gift of Miss Sally Rand. 1966.398a-b. CHM, ICHi-186021
About the Costume Council…..”Founded by Mrs. Philip K. Wrigley in April 1974, the purpose of the Costume Council is to support the Chicago History Museum as a leader in the documentation and interpretation of the history and the art of fashion. Through the Costume Council’s efforts, the Museum has been able to maintain and grow a thriving collection. The support the Council provides helps the Chicago History Museum care for, conserve, interpret, and display items in the costume collection to further our understanding of history through clothing. The Council also generously supports the Museum’s costume-based exhibitions and is proud to present what has grown to be one of the world’s premier collections, with pieces dating from the eighteenth century to present.”
Why you might ask is this personally meaningful to me, here is why….I’ve been involved (on and off) with the Costume Council for all of those 50 years serving in many roles from Acquisition Chair, to producing the hugely successful Donors Balls, to Historian and as a two term President of the group. But my involvement goes back even further….actually to before I was born, my mother’s first job when she came to Chicago was at the CHM where she worked with its first curator, Phyllis Healy. And guess what I worked with Mrs. Healy while I was in high school, my assignment, categorizing the glove collection!
My quote in the catalogue…
“Having been involved in most of the 50 year history of the Costume Council of CHM and having served as a two term president, I’ve seen many changes, many blockbuster exhibitions and various successful events…what remains is the deep rooted dedication of a group of enthusiastic members whose responsibility is to support the world class costume collection by fund raising and to preserve the collection’s visibility. I am delighted to say this hasn’t wavered but has become stronger through the years. Bravo Costume Council….bravo!”
As you know, I host the monthly nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club and have had three of the participating former curators talk about their books (not CHM publications)…and I had the pleasure to work with each of them while they were at CHM….Elizabeth Jachimowicz, Timothy Long and Petra Slinkard. I profiled their books on this blog! I also worked with Virginia Heaven both at CHM and as colleagues at Columbia College Chicago.
I was recently in conversation with Jessica Pushor, Collection Manager, and one of the editors of the catalogue, for one of our Book Club monthly meetings. Her extensive knowledge of fashion history and of this one of a kind collections is extraordinary. She is always very gracious in answering my research questions and hosting visiting designers and other notable fashion personalities.
Jessica Pushor photo courtesy Chicago History Museum
I end by saying get the book and get to the Chicago History Museum to see the exhibition….cheers to the next 50 years!
I want to introduce you to a truly original style icon…Tziporah Salamon who has graciously agreed to answer my nenasnotes questionnaire. Her look is unique and I know you will be mesmerized by her story.
But first I wanted you to know about a very special upcoming event…below is the information about the exciting event the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum is presenting to kick off its 50th Anniversary. The Costume Council supports the outstanding world class costume collection at the Museum and has underwritten its extraordinary exhibitions and events. I have been involved with the Costume Council for most of those 50 years. I hope you can support this event and all the upcoming Anniversary excitement!
TUESDAY, JUNE 11th at the Chicago History Museum
“Join the Costume Council for a special presentation featuring style icon Tziporah Salamon, in the above photo, The Art of Dressing author profiles the chicest and most celebrated older women of today, showcasing their wardrobes and revealing the contents of their closets, while imparting practical tips on how to put together beautiful outfits. Schedule… 5:30 p.m. – Costume Council Annual Meeting (Costume Council members only) 6:00 p.m. – Presentation by Tziporah Salamon 7:30 p.m. – Reception with drinks and light bites Questions? Contact Nell McKeown, development events manager, at mckeown@chicagohistory.org or (312) 799-2112.”
This is going to be a long post so settle back with your drink of choice (you by now know mine is either a glass of red wine or a coupe of bubbles!), you will be fascinated by her incredible story….here we go…
“My parents wedding – right after the war – In Czechoslovakia- she made her dress out of a sheet – he made his suit”
“Purim costume – made by my mother – in some ways. I do Purim everyday!!!”
WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB
First job ever was in high school as a receptionist at a shipping company. I worked after school a few times a week while a senior in high school for extra money. I loved the responsibility of showing up and I actually loved it. I have always loved work – no matter the job!
“Me at 15 – mom made the dress”“Sweet Sixteen with my parents – the Chinese restaurant gave me the Chinese coat to wear for the occasion- a foreshadowing to what I most collect now!”
BRIEFLY DESCRIBE YOUR MOST RECENT OCCUPATION
My recent occupation: I teach a Masterclass called THE ART OF DRESSING in which I actually use my vast collection mainly of antique clothes and accessories to teach the elements of style. I am also the author of a book by the same name, published by Rizzoli.
I am also a model – which I also love. I became a model at age 62, when I was photographed by Steven Meisel in the Lanvin 2012 fall winter collection.
“My first modeling gig – Steven Meisel, Alber Elbas and Pat McGrath – I was 62”
WHEN DID YOU DISCOVER YOUR FIRST IMPRESSION OF YOUR TALENT
I always knew I dressed well. What I didn’t know was that not everyone did.
That was a huge revelation for me. I first noticed it was when I was getting a PhD in psychology and I noticed that even though I had a limited budget being a high school teacher at the time, I was better dressed than my wealthy professors who were successful therapists.
WHEN DID YOU KNOW YOU HAD “MADE IT” EXPLAIN
I am not sure I feel like I made it. I am always growing and evolving. But being recognized and adored and appreciated by Bill Cunningham was the ultimate compliment to me. No one’s word or taste or appreciation meant more.
“Bill and me on 5th Ave – we did not know our photo was being taken. A friend found it on the internet. My favorite photo!”
Except my father’s. And I got that one morning when he was in his 90’s and I was leaving to go to work from his apt one Monday morning, wearing a pair of pants that he altered for me, he looked at me with so much love that I said, “I look good today, don’t I?” And he answered, “you look good everyday!”
“With my papa”
HOW DID YOUR ORIGINAL PASSION BRING YOU TO WHERE YOU ARE NOW
I always loved clothes. As a baby, I would go to sleep and wake up to more clothes – lovingly made for me by both my parents. My mother, a gifted dressmaker, could sew, knit, crochet and embroider and made all my sweaters, dresses, blouses and skirts, while my father, a master tailor , made the coats, pants and jackets. I was equally comfortable dressed as a little girl or a little boy. And as if that wasn’t enough, my aunt in America, after Auschwitz, ended up in NY where over one weekend there was a Jewish dance which she attended as well as a Jewish Texan whom she ended up marrying. He happened to be the vice president of Neiman Marcus so when she found out her favorite brother, my father, was alive, living in Israel and had two little girls she went shopping and did not look at price tags. So from day one, I had on my back the best clothes that hands could make – custom made for me at all ages and sizes – and the best clothes that money could buy. And when we got one of these packages from America – – my mother would invite all the relatives and I eagerly showed off all my new clothes. So here were the seeds for my ART OF DRESSING MASTERCLASS.
Photo by Robbie Quinn
WHAT WOULD HAVE BEEN YOUR ALTERNATE CHOICE AS A CAREER….WAS THERE ONE
I wanted to be a teacher from first day of school and pursued that goal – getting a Masters Degree in education. Then I wanted to be a therapist and pursued that goal by finishing two out of three years towards a PhD in psychology. Now, I am pursuing an acting career.
“Leaving Berkeley where I quit the PhD in psychology to return to NY to pursue fashion – 1979 -29 years old”“5 years later – 1984 – for NY Magazine- photos by Cheryl Koralik @cherylkoralik”
TALK A BIT ABOUT YOUR BOOK AND ADVANCED STYLE…THE BOOK AND FILM
Advanced Style, the book, shows photos of women advanced in years and advanced in style – all of us over 60. Advance Style Documentary focuses on 7of us NY women all over the age of 60. I was the youngest at age 62 and the oldest was age 82. The filmmaker, Lina Plioplyte , followed each of us separately and together for 3 years and then she and Ari Seth Cohen, the producer and writer of the books made this film.
ADVANCED STYLE THE BOOK AND THE FILM
My book, THE ART OF DRESSING, published by Rizzoli, is a how to book with beautiful photos of me and 10 other women all over the age of 60 in which I break down each woman’s personal style and why it works. The book, with beautiful illustrations as well as photographs goes over the elements of style – color, texture, proportion, silhouette, rhythm; story and how to incorporate them in your dressing.
“Recent glamour shot by Iris Brosch”
YOUR FAVORITE BOOK, MOVIE, LIST THE FOLLOWING,IN ORDER OF PREFERENCE…THEATER (LEGIT, MUSICALS), BALLET, OPERA, SYMPHONY…TYPE OF MUSIC YOU LIKE TO LISTEN TO…FAVORITE RESTAURANT
Favorite book:
I loved so many…War & Peace; The Fountainhead; A Tree Grows in Brooklyn: Middlemarch
Favorite movie:
Splendor in the Grass; Doctor Zhivago; Reds; Flowers of Shanghai; Auntie Mame
In order of preferences:
Theatre , especially musicals
Opera
Ballet
Symphony
Type of music – all music – from opera to rock’n’roll – country western, waltzes
Perry Como, Bruce Springsteen; the Mavericks; Shlomo Carlebach; Hebrew music; Arabic music; Irish ballads; Enya; Bach
HOBBIES….
Playing with clothes
Biking and blasting my favorite music
“Above photos taken by Ike Ude, done in one afternoon”“One of my favorite fashion shoots with Robbie Quinn”
Home is definitely antiques and eclectic. Lots of color – shawls, bags, hats, shoes, fringe artfully displayed throughout the apt
WHO WOULD YOU HAVE AT YOUR FANTASY DINNER (LIVING OR DEAD AND BE SURE TO INCLUDE YOURSELF!) AND WHAT WOULD YOU SERVE (10-12 GUESTS)
Charlie Chaplin; Paul Newman; Myrna Loy; Marlena Dietrich; Clark Gable; Einstein; Golda Meir; Ziva Sirkis, one of the women in my book and my second “mother”; Shakespeare; Emily Dickinson; Cecil B DeMille and myself
Dinner would be spreads of all kinds on crackers and bread for starters
Cheese and fruit laid out
Bowls of fresh salads, sliced tomatoes, sliced avocados,
Roasted potatoes
Roasted brussel sprouts
Roasted beets
Grilled cauliflower
Wild salmon
Pea soup
Fresh cherries
Fresh figs
Fresh grapes
FAVORITE VACATION SPOT VISITED AND/OR ON YOUR GO TO LIST
I loved Jamaica when I visited but I also love Paris and Italy and Greece and, of course, my homeland, my beloved Israel
WHAT DO YOU ENJOY DOING MOST IN YOUR FREE TIME?
Going for bike rides
Exploring the city
Going to museums
Playing with clothes
Going to the movies – especially at the Film Forum and Lincoln Center
FAVORITE WORK OF PUBLIC ART
I loved Christo’s and Jeanne Claude’s THE GATES. It had a profane affect on my as my father had just passed on Feb 20, 2005 and I sat Shiva for him in Brooklyn, in Brighton Beach where he lived and died. After a week of sitting, came back to my neighborhood on the upper west side and went for a walk in Central Park, towards Bergdorf’s, where my father had been a tailor from age 77-85. Seeing the gates – that bright orange fabric blowing in the wind and surviving the snow and chill and elements brought me back to life. They were like sentient beings welcoming me home.
HOW WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE REMEMBERED
As someone who lived fully, loved fully and was authentically herself!
FAVORITE LINKS YOU WOULD LIKE TO INCLUDE
Love the following people on Instagram and follow regularly:
Christian and Nena at a Columbia College Chicago event
By now you know I have been fortunate to work with many, many fashion designers and other fashion personalities over the years….my last in store designer, actually on the very day of my retirement from Saks Fifth Avenue, Chicago, was the Uber talented creator, Christian Siriano!
I knew from the first time I saw him on Project Runway he would become a superstar and he has gone beyond my expectations!!! Not only is he super talented but also s delightful gentleman!
And guess what you have the opportunity to meet Christian at a very special Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum event in honor of the Presidents’ Council Award on Thursday, October 12th at the Four Seasons Hotel Chicago
One of the many things I adore about him is that he wants to dress all women beautifully no matter their size…what a concept..don’t you agree!!
From his SCAD exhibition
His mask factory at the beginning of COVID…a hero!Spring 2024 Collectio
His art
His Home Collection.New York storeWestport ConnecticutStore
I’m beyond thrilled for all his success and look forward to his next ventures…..here is how you can learn more about him and join the event…do it!!!!!
PRESIDENTS’ CIRCLE AWARD LUNCHEON THURSDAY, OCTOBER 12 11:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. Four Seasons Hotel Chicago 120 E Delaware Pl
LUNCHEON TIMELINE 11:00 a.m. | Champagne reception with Christian Siriano 12:00 p.m. | Luncheon 12:45 p.m. | Interview with Christian Siriano
Seated Luncheon and Raffle • Luncheon Attire • Valet Parking Available
EVENT CHAIRS | Pamella Capitanini & David Mordini LUNCHEON HOSTESSES | Tina Gravel, Rose Kallas & Dusty Stemer
Join the Costume Council as we present the third Presidents’ Circle Award to noted designer Christian Siriano. The afternoon will feature a luncheon and an interview with Mr. Siriano.
PRESIDENTS’ CIRCLE AWARD LUNCHEON THURSDAY, OCTOBER 12 11:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. Four Seasons Hotel Chicago 120 E Delaware PlGet Tickets to Luncheon
LUNCHEON TIMELINE 11:00 a.m. | Champagne reception with Christian Siriano 12:00 p.m. | Luncheon 12:45 p.m. | Interview with Christian Siriano
Seated Luncheon and Raffle • Luncheon Attire • Valet Parking Available
EVENT CHAIRS | Pamella Capitanini & David Mordini LUNCHEON HOSTESSES | Tina Gravel, Rose Kallas & Dusty Stemer
TABLE SPONSOR LEVELS
PEONY SPONSOR $5,000 | Front row center table seating for 10 guests* DAFFODIL SPONSOR $4,500 | Second row center table seating for 10 guests* TULIP SPONSOR $3,500 | Table seating for 10 guests*
HOST TICKET | $500 Premium seating*
NEWLY LOWERED PRICE INDIVIDUAL TICKET | $275 Thanks to generous underwriting, we are fortunate to be able to offer our last bloc of tickets at the reduced price of $275.
*Includes acknowledgement in program
SPONSORSHIP OPPORTUNITIES
ORCHID SPONSOR $5,000 | Includes two front row tickets, two signed copies of Dresses to Dream About, and designer package including Fumee Claire gift and exclusive makeup samples* ROSE SPONSOR $1,500 | Includes two front row tickets and two signed copies of Dresses to Dream About* LILY SPONSOR $1,000 | Includes two front row tickets and one signed copy of Dresses to Dream About*
*Includes premiere logo/listing in event program and registration site
ABOUT CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
Award-winning CFDA designer Christian Siriano has established himself as a tour de force in the fashion world since launching his eponymous collection in 2008 following his studies in London under Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. Siriano’s designs have been worn by today’s biggest stars including current FLOTUS Dr. Jill Biden, former FLOTUS Michelle Obama, Angelina Jolie, Oprah, Zendaya, Ariana Grande, Julianne Moore, Lady Gaga, Tiffany Haddish, Billy Porter, Cardi B, Whoopi Goldberg, Julia Roberts, and Jennifer Coolidge, to name but a few.
With nearly two decades of fashion experience under his belt, the Siriano design studio continues to celebrate beauty and diversity in this ever-changing fashion industry. As a result, Christian’s work has been featured in a multitude of prestigious museum exhibits including his first ever solo work retrospective titled “Christian Siriano: People Are People” at SCAD (Savannah College of Art & Design) from October 2021-2022, Kensington Palace’s largest exhibition to date (currently on view) titled “Crown to Couture,” and The MET Costume Institute where he broke a Met Gala record for having three separate looks featured in the 2021 exhibit “In America: A Lexicon.” Christian himself was also named among Time’s 100 Most Influential People in 2018 for his leading contributions to body diversity on the runway and red carpet, was a member of Forbes’ 30 Under 30 class of 2015, and was the youngest person to ever appear on Crain’s “40 Under 40” list at age 24.
Apart from his thriving fashion empire, Christian added interior designer (Siriano Interiors) and best-selling author (Dresses to Dream About and Dresses to Dream About: Deluxe Edition) to his impressive list of credits in 2021 and 2017, respectively. He’s also currently serving as host and mentor for Season 20 of the iconic Bravo hit series, Project Runway. This Fall will mark the brand’s 15 year anniversary.
“The Presidents’ Circle Award is given to designers who are not only making an indelible mark on today’s fashion world, but who are also promoting inclusivity and kindness toward others. It is our honor to celebrate Mr. Siriano’s history-making record of talent, inclusion, and creativity.”
— KAREN PETERS | First Vice President, Programs
THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS
DONORS ORCHID SPONSORS ($5,000) Richard and Diane Weinberg
ROSE SPONSORS ($1,500) Barb and Keith Kizziah
LILY SPONSORS ($1,000) Bon and Holly French
TABLE SPONSORS PEONY SPONSORS ($5,000) Pamella and Alfredo Capitanini
TULIP SPONSORS ($3,500) Tina Gravel Neiman Marcus
HOST COMMITTEE Constance Barkley Michelle Bibergal Kathleen Boege Sophia Bross Sujata Dayal Stuart Dyer Courtney Hopkins Rosemary Kallas Bonnie Lipe Nina Mariano Stacie McClane Karen Peters David Sanchez Leslie Zentner
Something special today, dear readers….I’m profiling an extremely fascinating and unique fashion/lifestyle personality, David Nash! David is a rare bird due to the fact he wears many hats, writer, researcher, bon vivant, and for this post, MAJOR collector of James Galanos exquisite garments! And, for your information, I have not met David nor did I know about his clothing collection, which includes other designers as well, until I got the invitation to the May 4th Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum event….I was intrigued and knew he would be perfect to answer my nenasnotes Questionnaire…I wasn’t wrong! I’m sure I’ve mentioned my time with James Galanos when he appeared with his beyond magical garments at trunk shows at Saks Fifth Avenue, Chicago, if not I’ll do a post later. Jimmy was closer to Haute Couture than any other American designer….a true genius in creativity!
JAMES GALANOS IN HIS WORKROOM PHOTO CREDIT HARRY BENSON, 1985
The following is David’s biography followed by the Questionnaire….I know you are going to enjoy it…so make yourself comfortable…..sit back pour yourself a glass of champagne or David’s drink of choice, iced Belvedere vodka…it is Friday afternoon after all….
“David Nash is a California-based journalist, brand writer and a regular contributor for Architectural Digest, C, ELLE Décor, Town & Countryand House Beautiful. He was a founding regional editor at DuJour, and his words have appeared in publications such as Veranda, Marie Claire,Carine Roitfeld’s CR Fashion Book, Cabana, TATLER and The London Telegraph. A collector of contemporary and vintage fashion and accessories, he has lent or donated pieces to institutions including The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, Drexel University’s Fox Historic Costume Collection, Phoenix Art Museum, the FIDM Museum, and The Museum at FIT.”
“His archive of works by James Galanos—likely the largest private collection outside the personal wardrobe of philanthropist Iris Cantor—includes examples spanning five decades, from 1951 to 1998 when the designer closed his atelier. Nash’s decade-long friendship with Galanos was the impetus for starting the collection in an effort to help preservethe legacy of “America’s Couturier”. Seminal pieces from the archive were included in Phoenix Art Museum’s A Tribute to James Galanos in 2017, and James Galanos: Design Integrity the following year at Drexel’s Leonard Pearlstein Gallery.”
DAVID WITH SELECTIONS FROM HIS JAMES GALANOS COLLECTION, PHOTO CREDIT. CRAIG LEE, JULY 2022
nenasnotes QUESTIONAIRE…
WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB
If you’re talking my very first job right out of high school, it was as an Alley Coordinator at a Red Lobster—a front-of-the-house position that required pulling the live lobsters out of the lobby tank for the kitchen, dressing the plates, and bringing the foodout if a server was busy at another table. But, professionally, it was as the Vault Manager for LMNO Productions, a television production company in L.A. responsible for, among other reality-based shows, Cosby’s Kid’s Say the Darndest Things, Guinness World Records Primetime, and Behind Closed Doors with Joan Lunden. I oversaw all the footage library for the company. Definitely a humble beginning for someone who ended up working as one of Robert Evans’ last film development assistants at Paramount Pictures.
BRIEFLY DESCRIBE YOUR MOST RECENT OCCUPATION
I’m a freelance contributing writer and editor for a variety of publications including Architectural Digest, ELLE Décor, Town & Country, and C Magazine, among others. And, more regularly, I work full-time as a brand writer for startups, helping to develop tones of voice, brand guidelines, and streamline communications.
WHEN DID YOU DISCOVER YOUR FIRST IMPRESSION OF YOUR TALENT
As a writer—in 1986. When I was 11 years old, I went with my parents to see Star Trek IV: The Voyage Home, and when we got home, I wrote out a [very] rudimentary version of the entire script by hand on folded sheets of typing paper and bound it like a book. I’ve always been fascinated with the art of storytelling.
WHEN DID YOU KNOW YOU HAD “MADE IT” EXPLAIN
To be honest, I’ve ‘made it’ and either given it up—or lost it—a few times. When I worked in entertainment in L.A., I ascended fairly quickly from production roles on television shows for Warner Bros. and Paramount to end up working for the infamous producer and former studio head, Bob Evans. That was major. After a little over a year with Bob, I left the industry and moved to San Francisco for something new. More recently, over the last seven years, I’ve experienced the ups and downs associated with the startup world—not every great idea succeeds, and layoffs happen. I’ve definitely lived a few lives and signed as many NDAs.
HOW DID YOUR ORIGINAL PASSION BRING YOU TO WHERE YOU ARE NOW
HUNTING FOR TREASURES IN PARIS
I’m a natural born researcher. I love digging into a subject and learning as much as possible. Often it leads down a series of rabbit holes that can produce so many other great ideas for [in my case] potential stories. For example, a French haute couture dress in my collection led me to write about a fascinating period in the life of Nicole Alphand, the wife of the French ambassador to the Unites States during the Kennedy administration. I contributed an excerpt of that longer tale for the recent March issue of Town & Country.
WHEN DID YOU START COLLECTING JAMES GALANOS GARMENTS….DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE(S) PIECE (CAN YOU SHARE A PHOTO OF IT)
DAVID WITH JAMES GALANOS NAPA 2002
My collecting began the year after I met Jimmy, I think, probably around 2007. The first piece I bought was a black coatdress from the mid-70s. I think I paid $50 for it at an auction. It’s not very remarkable, but I had to start somewhere.Jimmy was always forward thinking, and I never let him know I was collecting his work—he would have told me to spend my money on other things. Now I’ve amassed what is likely the largest collection of Galanos outside of a museum or Iris Cantor’s personal wardrobe.
TWO GARMENTS FROM DAVID’S EXTENSIVE JAMES GALANOS COLLECTION
There are favorites, of course. But I have an affinity for a particular evening dress from his spring/summer 1963 collection. It was featured full page—shot by Hiro—in Harper’s Bazaar that April with the following description: “Lightning strikes crepe. The column of crepe—cocoa brown asymmetrically printed with lightning streaks of pale beige and black—completely covering, supple, clinging. The long, slim sleeves, the narrowness of the whole covering, the most contemporary look possible.” Nobody writes descriptions like that anymore. It was also shot by Milton Green for the March 1, 1963 issue of LIFE, and by Melvin Sokolsky for another series of images for Bazaar. What’s described earlier as ‘lightning strikes’ was actually an homage to one of Jimmy’s favorite artists, Lucio Fontana. My dress, acquired from the estate of Edie Adams, was displayed at a Galanos tribute exhibition at Phoenix Art Museum in 2017. The only other version I know of is in the collection of The Met.
GALANOS GOWN HARPER’S BAZAAR 1963 PHOTO BY HIROGALANOS PHOTO BY KEN HOWIE
DO YOU PLAN TO WRITE A MONOGRAPH ON THIS UNIQUE CREATOR (WE NEED IT!)
From your mouth to God’s ear. I’ve been talking to some folks…
JIMMY AND DAVID WITH DAME GLENDA BAILEY, HARPER’S BAZAAR EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 2001-2020
WHAT WOULD HAVE BEEN YOUR ALTERNATE CHOICE AS A CAREER….WAS THERE ONE
I often think about getting back into entertainment—television and film production or development. It was really my first love, but I couldn’t sit still that long back in my 20s. I needed to experience more, so when I mastered something, I moved on. Now I know what my passions, talents, and natural gifts are, so it’s about translating those things into whatever I do [next].
YOUR FAVORITE BOOK, MOVIE, LIST THE FOLLOWING, IN ORDER OF PREFERENCE…THEATER, BALLET, OPERA, SYMPHONY…TYPE OF MUSIC DO YOU LIKE TO LISTEN TO…FAVORITE RESTAURANT:
Favorite book: usually the one I just read—in this case Just Passing Through: A Seven-Decade Roman Holiday: The Diaries and Photographs of Milton Gendel; favorite movie: it’s a toss-up between CLUE, Dangerous Liaisons, Gosford Park, and Rear Window; favorite Broadway show: Sunset Boulevard; favorite opera: Puccini’s Madam Butterfly; least favorite opera: Nixon in China; favorite restaurants: Cotogna, Spruce, or Zuni Café (San Francisco), Racines (Paris), La Goulue, Balthazar, or Cipriani uptown (New York); favorite music: I’m all over the map, from classic and modern rock to showtunes—did I mention I worked with Michael Feinstein for a year?
HOBBIES….
My hobbies bleed into my work. I’m always on the hunt for great vintage fashion and couture to add to my collection—whether it’s a Galanos that’s illuded me or a piece by another designer; at some point the whole of my archives will be donated to various institutions. The hunt is so much fun! I really love to travel—particularly through Europe—and usually tie a story into a trip. I love to write in general, so often I’m just translating ideas into outlines for future articles. We—my partner, Doug, and I—also have an affinity for art and vintage cars.
IN THE SCHIAPARELLI PARIS ATELIER
YOUR HOME….MODERN, TRADITIONAL, ANTIQUES (WHAT ERA) ECLECTIC…
We have a 1931 Tudor in the East Bay, across the bridge from San Francisco, and it’s filled with a mix of antique, contemporary, and modern pieces. The walls are covered with favorite artworks, from a surrealist oil on canvas by Italian artist Tomea Fiorenzo that was exhibited at the 1942 Venice Biennale and a largescale painting of finches by pop-artist Hunt Slonemto photographs by Slim Aarons and contemporary visual artist Danielle Mourning—and everything in between. But the pièce de resistance is the backyard, where we can spend hours and hours.
WHO WOULD YOU HAVE AT YOUR FANTASY DINNER (LIVING OR DEAD AND BE SURE TO INCLUDE YOURSELF!) AND WHAT WOULD YOU SERVE (10-12 GUESTS):
When you’ve actually been at a dinner like this—with all living guests [at the time]—that included Jane Fonda, David Hockney, Nolan Miller, Michael Feinstein, Fayard Nicholas, Doris Raymond, and Angie Dickinson, it’s hard to consider a ‘fantasy’gathering. Talk about a mixed bag! But here you go, in no particular order: Nicole Alphand, Meryl Streep, Little Edie Beale, James Galanos (of course), Truman Capote, Lynn Wyatt, Montgomery Clift, artist Mark Bradford, Stevie Nicks, and The Duke and Duchess of Windsor. Right now, I’m craving coastal Italian…so the menu would definitely include seafood and pasta.
FAVORITE VACATION SPOT VISITED AND/OR ON YOUR GO TO LIST
AT THE ANGERA FORTRESS ON THE BORROMEO ISLANDS
I love Corsica—Bonifacio in particular, and the all-suite hotel Cala di Greco. It’s all about relaxing and the seafood, and the incredible rosé produced there. Traveling through France in general—from Paris to Provence to the Côte d’Azur (Nice and Cannes mostly). Salers in the Cantal area is also incredible and the cheeses are amazing; we have friends who have a farmhouse there. Mexico City is also on the list—the food is incredible (as are the mezcals). We were recently in Malta for a wedding and that was a pretty spectacular place to spend a few days. Okay, one more…St. Petersburg, Russia, is one of the most beautiful places in the entire world. Looking out on the Bay of Finland from Peterhof Palace—just magical. The water is a color of blue like you’ve never seen. I was there with Jimmy in 2007.
WHAT DO YOU ENJOY DOING MOST IN YOUR FREE TIME
As the New York Times bestselling author Austin Kleon said, “Creative people need time to just sit around and do nothing.” My mind is always working, so sitting in the backyard feeding the squirrels or watching an old movie fort the 100th time sounds like heaven. But those distraction only lasts so long.
FAVORITE WORK OF PUBLIC ART:
If we can consider architecture a form of public art, then I’d have to say the world is filled with immense beauty right in plain sight. I can stroll the streets of New Orleans or sit outside a café in Paris and look at buildings for hours. Have you ever really looked at the details of a Pre-war apartment building in New York? They’re gloriously strong and everlasting.
A FAVORITE RECIPE
VINTAGE COCKTAIL SHAKERS PHOTO FROM PINTEREST CREDIT UNKNOWN
Take 2.5 ounces of Belvedere vodka and shake it with ice—in a vintage silver cocktail shaker—until your arm hurts. Strain the vodka into a chilled coupe and garnish with a lemon twist. Drink and repeat.
HOW WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE REMEMBERED
The things I’ve written will live forever in one form or another—thanks to the internet—and there are articles that I’m really proud of and hope are read and referenced long after I’m gone. But, in the end, it’s all about the good you’ve done and how you treated people. I think there’s an episode of Designing Women in which Dixie Carter’s character, Julia, says as much in a speech to Delta Burke’s character, Suzanne.
ALWAYS READY TO PARTY!
David, a million thanks for sharing so much of your life with us. You are a unique combination of researcher, writer and collector. To hear more about David’s Galanos collection be sure to get your ticket to the May 4th Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum event when he will be in conversation with Steven Stolman. For further information or to purchase tickets, please visit chicagohistory.org/galanos or contact Nell McKeown, development events manager, at mckeown@chicagohistory.org or 312-799-2112.
All photos from David Nash’s collections unless otherwise noted.
A not to be missed event! For further information or to purchase tickets, please visit chicagohistory.org/galanos or contact Nell McKeown, development events manager, at mckeown@chicagohistory.org or 312-799-2112.
Watch for my blog post on David Nash who has been kind to answer my nenasnotes questionnaire. I did a post with Steven Stolman on January 28, 2022, please go to my archives to read his fascinating story!
The Costume Council of The Chicago History Museum and nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club invite you and your guests to attend a special virtual program featuring:
STARSTRUCK: How I Magically Transformed Chicago into Hollywood for More Than Fifty Years with author Michael Kutza in Conversation with Nena Ivon of nenasnotes, TUESDAY, JANUARY 24, 5:30 p.m.-7:00 p.m. via Zoom Conference( link to follow), tickets are $45.00 per person.
Please register online by clicking the button below:Purchase Tickets
Long before there was SUNDANCE, TRIBECA, and TORONTO, there was CHICAGO and a young kid from Chicago’s West Side named Michael Kutza. He decided that his city needed to see what it was missing around the world in international cinema and the glamor of Hollywood. So he founded the Chicago International Film Festival in 1964, with the help of silent screen star Colleen Moore and legendary film director King Vidor.
Join the Costume Council and nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club for a special virtual event featuring Michael Kutza in conversation with Nena Ivon. We’ll hear about a roller-coaster ride that lasted for better than half a century, with Kutza presiding over a gathering that throughout the decades hosted a veritable Who’s Who of the film world – from Harold Lloyd to Clint Eastwood, Bette Davis to Viola Davis, Steven Spielberg to Spike Lee, Guillermo del Toro to Jodie Foster, Lauren Bacall to Al Pacino.
Starstruck: How I Magically Transformed Chicago into Hollywood for More Than Fifty Years is Kutza’s rollicking, provocative, racy, colorful, irreverent show business memoir culled from his decades rubbing elbows with the giants of film at both the Chicago Festival and numerous other festivals around the globe.
Michael Kutza is a graphic designer, filmmaker, film critic and podcast co-host who founded the Chicago International Film Festival in the mid-1960s. He ran the festival and served as its artistic director until stepping down in 2018.Kutza remains CEO Emeritus of Cinema/Chicago and the Chicago International Film Festival.
Zoom link will be sent prior to program. If you have already registered through nenasnotes Fashion Book Club, no need to re-register; you will be sent the Zoom link.
It isn’t often that a book hits a cord or in this case many cords with me….and that is exactly what Michael Kutza’s STARSTRUCK does!!!! It’s a memoir, it’s an insight into the birth of an entrepreneur, it’s a 50+ year history of a City plus much much more! It’s a deep dive into the movie industry with lots of intimate inside stories told with humor, honesty and a bit of sass, okay, a lot of sass!
It all started in 1964 when Chicago columnist, Irv Kupcinent introduced the 22 year old Kutza to the retired film star, Colleen Moore. Moore was a mega star in the 1920’s, was the first to bob her hair (which became her trademark) was the original “flapper“ and appeared in over 60 silent films. And by the way, you can see her magical fairy castle at Chicago’s Museum of Science and Industry. It is amazing…perhaps I do a nenasnotes blog post on the unique artifact in the near future!
COLLEEN MOORE In the 1920’sThe Fairy Castle
Let me let Michael tell you the story of their meeting….
”So I met this wonderful lady named Colleen Moore. She was a silent film comedian just like Mary Pickford but she retired here and married a man named [Homer] Hargrave, who was the president of Merrill Lynch. He had just died so suddenly I’ve got this film star widow with nothing to do and when Irv Kupcinet introduced me to her it was like magic. It was very much like a mother and son relationship, she helped me to do the whole thing. She knew all the movie stars in the old days so she got them all together to come to the first film festival.”
COLLEEN MOORE In 1964The first Chicago International Film Festival 1965
Kutza a totally hands on entrepreneur! Photo from STARSTRUCK.
Michael, a native Chicagoan, gives us a history lesson on the birth of the film industry in which, Chicago played a major part. I particularly like his telling of the Chaplin story from the beginnings of the mega genius Charlie Chaplin to his daughter, the actress Geraldine Chaplin, to Robert Downey, Jr. brilliantly playing Chaplin in the movie Chaplin!
From the book’s Press Release…”As described in vivid detail in Starstruck, Kutza presided over an annual gathering that would over the next half-century host a veritable Who’s Who of the film world – from Harold Lloyd to Clint Eastwood, Bette Davis to Viola Davis, Steven Spielberg to Spike Lee, Guillermo del Toro to Jodie Foster, Lauren Bacall to Al Pacino. At the same time, the festival helped introduce a plethora of new talent that would go on to revolutionize the movie business, including Martin Scorsese, Oliver Stone and Helen Mirren.”
The following photos are found in the book…
With Orson WellesWith Angela LansburyWith Dustin HoffmanRoger Ebert a huge supporter of the Festival
You will learn, as I did, the backstories of stars (major actors, directors, producers…many have become Kutza’s close friends) “real” personalities…many very nice…others not so much! Their demand’s, how about a private plane at a huge cost, some a bit more titillating…no detail is left out and I’m sure there are many more stories to fill a volume 2! Plus there is so much to absorb you will want to read it again and again!
Some of the major stars and directors throughthe years (they, in my opinion. are also stars!!!) Here are more photos from the book…
Jane Fonda Jack Nicholson Sidney PoitierOliver StoneRon Howard
Kutza’s dream as a very young man was to bring the best of film to his City which he describes in great detail…you get the good, the bad and often the ugly…the ups and downs of the process of working against all odds to produce an Internationally recognized and acclaimed Film Festival that predated, Sundance, Tribeca and Toronto. I’m thrilled to do this review for someone I’ve known for decades and you will throughly enjoy his journey…get the book you won’t be sorry!
A crowd hamming it up before a screening!
Kutza has a Podcast, Nose to Nose….here is a YouTube piece he did on the book…take a look it is fascinating! https://youtu.be/4INswIiePBs
I am so excited to tell you that I will be in conversation with Michael, via zoom, on Tuesday, January 24th when nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club joins the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum in a special event. Do join us when two native Chicagoans talk about two Chicago institutions The Chicago International Film Festival and The Costume Collection at the Chicago History Museum guaranteed to be a great time! Invitations will be out soon…to get on the list please contact Nell McKeown at 312.799.2112orMcKeown@ChicagoHistory.org
More images from the book…
Michael’s iconic “eyes” image, a composite of the silent film stars.
Most images are from STARSTRUCK all others found on Pinterest no photo credit available.
Join the fashionable crowd on Friday, November 4th for an excitingly unique experience, a screening of the new documentary based on Marcellas Reynolds first book SUPREME MODELS. I did a review on the book and a profile on Marcellas several years ago (check the nenasnotes archive), both are worth your viewing. I’m beyond thrilled for the success Marcellas has had with his two books, by the way…another is in the works!!!!! And now this long overdue film on the iconic black models.
Marcellas with his first book and his personal appearance at one of the monthly nenasnotes The Fashion Book Club meetings.
The evening will include a panel featuring Chicago’s own icons along with the producer and the incredible super model, Veronica Webb….a not to be missed event!
I asked Marcellas for an exclusive quote, here are his thoughts…
“First, I love Chicago, my hometown. I love museums. So much of my work as a writer and now a documentarian is based on reverence for history. This documentary is a love letter to Black women, Black models, and everyone of every race who come together to create the dream of fashion. It’s also a love letter to the city of Chicago.
The panel is comprised of heavyweights in art, business, and fashion. The screening and discussion are a once-in-a-lifetime chance to be part of a global conversation about diversity and inclusion. I can not wait to hear from the members of this incredible group.
I ride hard for my hometown, and I’m always looking for a reason to come home and see my friends. And what better excuse than a glamorous fundraiser at the CHM? I’m looking forward to seeing Chicago turn up and turn it out. It’s going to be a party!”
Thank you Marcellas….here is the invitation….I know you will not want to miss this, get your tickets now!!!!!
THE COSTUME COUNCIL of the CHICAGO HISTORY MUSEUM
presents
SUPREME MODELS the DOCUMENTARY
MIDWEST PREMIERE
FASHION, GLAMOUR & HISTORY!
Friday, November 4th, 2022, 5:30 – 9:30 PM Chicago History Museum, 1601 N Clark St, Chicago, IL
You’re invited to the exclusive Midwest Premiere of Supreme Models, the documentary series based on Marcellas Reynolds’ bestselling book, Supreme Models: Iconic Black Women Who Revolutionized Fashion. Join Marcellas Reynolds, Supreme Model Veronica Webb, Chicago Fashion Icon Ikram Goldman, Fashion Fair Cosmetics CEO Desirée Rogers and DuSable Museum Director of Curatorial Services and Community Partnerships Danny Dunson for a screening, panel discussion, and reception. The series features Iman, Zendaya, Precious Lee, Olivier Rousteing, Joan Smalls, Anna Wintour and many more.
Costume Council Co-chairs Pam Capitanini and John Rogers
Thank You to our Sponsors!
Model Sponsors Lee Blackwell Baur Richard and Diane Weinberg
Host Committee Pamella Capitanini Princess Greenwood Rosemary Kallas John Rogers Noren Ungaretti
To say it’s unusual for an independent specialty store to celebrate 100 years in business is truly an understatement….but that is exactly what the charming Lake Forest Shop is doing this month! What is their secret, in my minds eye several things, first it’s owner, the granddaughter of the founder of the business and the incredible personal service she and her staff give their clients. Remember I was in retail for my entire career so I definitely have an opinion on retail survival, wouldn’t you agree! She upholds the tradition of “giving the customer what she wants” in spades.
Inside the Store
I had the privilege, upon my retirement, to work with Ellen and her team on several fashion events…they were incredible to work with, true professionals in every regard. Ellen fills her charming store with merchandise selected for her clients all of whom she knows intimately another key to the success of the store. I would suggest you go on line and read the story of the store as well see more photos, I’ve also included the press release information at the bottom of this post. https://www.lakeforestshop.com
The purpose of this post is to tell you about a very special event, yet another for the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum, on Thursday, September 29th…I don’t know who is busier The Lake Forest Shop with their celebratory events or the CC with theirs!!!! By the way, the CC will be celebrating their own anniversary in 2024, their 50th! Stay tuned for all the special plans for that celebration. The Shop is known for its philanthropy and hosts many events annually. Here is the invitation for the CC event, for more information please contact Nell McKeown at mckeown@chicagohistory.org.
Meet the Costume Council members who will be modeling that evening…quite the bevy of beauties, I know you agree!
FYI this is not a paid promotion….I don’t do paid pieces, I just like to give my readers information they will enjoy! Be sure to make your reservation now it will be such a delightful evening!
It’s always a treat to be able to get to know a designer better….such is the case with Peter Dundas. Peter is the 2022 recipient of the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum Designer of Excellence Award. More on the event celebrating him below. I wanted to ask Peter to do my usual Profile Questionnaire….instead I sent him special questions which he graciously took time from his Norwegian get away to answer for me.
When you think of the DUNDAS brand you immediately think celebrity dressing….let’s see what he has cooked up for next weeks Met Gala, I’m sure more showstoppers! Most recently, one of this year’s Super Bowl half time stars, Mary J. Blige wowed us not only with her performance but her incredible fashion…Dundas, of course!
His exquisite sketch…The garment in action!
Let’s hear from the creator….
Your garments are always showstoppers….how did you transition from ready to wear to designing for celebrities with custom pieces?
Thank you. Dressing celebrities came very naturally because they actually chose me. They started wearing pieces from my ready to wear collection and little by little the requests for custom looks started to come in. Custom pieces are not necessarily so different from ready to wear for me really. I want every person who wears my designs to look and feel amazing. I think fashion is about giving confidence and that appeals to everyone.
The Carters at a Met Gala
Beyoncé
Did you always know you wanted to be a designer, when did you discover your talent? Which of your time with other brands did you enjoy the most?
I always knew I loved fashion. It was partly a need because my widowed father had no clue how kids dressed and partly because of the pure love of color, the fantasy and later the sex appeal. I had my first manual sewing machine at 6 or 7 but coming from a family of mainly doctors I felt I needed to pursue something more serious for a profession. The decision that the love of this craft could not be ignored came when it was time for college. All of a sudden it appeared as the only path to take. The only path that would make me happy After art school I was incredibly lucky to land a top job in Paris at my then favourite designer; Jean-Paul Gaultier and I haven’t looked back since. I have had many incredible moments in many different places like Pucci in Italy, Lacroix and Ungaro in Paris, and at Cavalli twice, so it might be unfair to choose just one brand. Cavalli however was uniquely incredible because we were riding so high. Pucci was great too and we have had some amazing moments with DUNDAS.
Ready to wear collection
Have you always done your own sketches…they are stunning.
Thank you. I sketch constantly. I always carry a pen. Today most of the sketches I publish are finished electronically mixing photorealism with my own illustration and for this I get a little help. Electronic illustrations facilitate communication, and for custom work it’s especially useful as you understand the garment better. Next is NFT’s which we started doing after the Super Bowl Halftime show with Mary J. Blige. Doing those and creating wearables accessible to anyone creates an even broader outreach that I think is very exciting and important for tomorrow.
Beyoncé 2017
How do you unwind, hard I’m sure with two little ones!
We are busier than ever but sometimes it’s about a change of pace or a change of scenery. My favourite time to unwind are summer breaks at our cottage on the Greek island of Naxos. It’s special because I built it; it has a huge fruit and vegetable garden where we make our own olive oil and can live off the fat of the land literally. It’s a healthy break from the urban existence. On a daily basis giving our son Alexios his evening bath is now probably one of my favourite moments and gets my mind off the business of dresses.
I’m obsessed with your personal style…tell me a little about how you have developed it.
I think I am a frustrated child of the 70’s. The mood-boards for my collections are always filled with images of rockstars from that era. Blondie, Pat Benatar, Keith Richards, Led Zeppelin and of course Cher. It’s my favorite era to be inspired by so naturally it trickles down to how I look and dress.
With Ciara wearing a gown inspired by her husband, Russel Willson’s football jersey at last years Met Gala
Last question…I always ask this question of people I’m profiling….tell me about your dream dinner party, who would be on our your guest list (living or dead) 10 to 12 people and what would you serve (my readers love celebrity recipes!)
Wow that’s a loaded question hmm. My guests would be:
-My partner Evangelo of course
-Halston
-Yves Saint Laurent, both are my heros
-Melissa McCarthy for laughs
-Oprah because she is Oprah
-Bill Gates because he is an amazing entrepreneur who also cares about doing good
-Audrey Hepburn because she was a fashion icon when I was a kid watching old movies with my Dad
-The Dalai Lama for his wisdom
-Queen Elizabeth, I heard she is fun
-Rihanna as she is one of the most beautiful women I know and love to dress
-My mother because I didn’t really know her growing up
-At last God because she is of course always welcome
I would serve caviar on baked potato & champagne which is what I crave right this minute and then profiteroles with hot chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream!
With partner, Evangelo Bousis
Peter, thank you so much for taking time to answer my questions. They give all of us a wonderful glimpse into The World of Peter Dundas. May I offer my congratulations on receiving the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum 2022 Designer of Excellence Award.
PRESS RELEASE: THE COSTUME COUNCIL OF THE CHICAGO HISTORY MISEUM PRESENTS THE 2022 DESIGNER OF EXCELLENCE AWARD TO PETER DUNDAS ON WEDNESDAY, MAY 4th AT THE LANGHAM HOTEL
“The Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum is pleased to announce an exciting evening honoring celebrity fashion designer Peter Dundas, as he receives our Designer of Excellence Award. His illustrious fashion career serving as Creative Director for Emmanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, and Roberto Cavalli has shaped a global experience leading top fashion houses.
His eponymous brand, DUNDAS, launched in unconventional style debuting with Beyoncé Knowles at the 2017 Grammy Awards. Created in partnership with Evangelo Bousis, a Chicago native, DUNDAS continuously delivers notable, couture red carpet looks for celebrities: Shakira, Ciara, Kim Kardashian, Heidi Klum, Mary J. Blige, H.E.R., Emily Ratajkowski and many more.”
Honorary Co-Chairs: Brian Atwood, Evangelo Bousis, and Nick Cave
“The Designer of Excellence Awards is a fundraiser to benefit the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum and has a rich history in our organization as an important pillar of designer recognition in Chicago. The Museum has more than 50,000 pieces of fashion in its archives and is one of the largest repositories in the world. Brian Atwood, Evangelo Bousis, and Nick Cave are this year’s honorary co-chairs. Over the years, the Awards have honored James Galanos, Geoffrey Beene, Christian Lacroix, Sonia Rykiel, Hubert de Givenchy, Bill Blass, Ralph Rucci, Bob Mackie, Carolina Herrera, and this year, we are thrilled to honor Peter Dundas. All proceeds benefit the Chicago History Museum for exhibition and curatorial needs to preserve the costume collection.”
The Costume Council of The Chicago History Museum and
