I have been a fan of Susan Elia MacNeal since her first novel featuring our heroine, Maggie Hope, Mr. Churchill’s Secretary. The Paris Spy was a bit heavier than her previous books and perhaps this wasn’t the time for me to read it. It has been very gloomy in Chicago the past couple of weeks and this did not lift my mood. That being said, it is well written, the research extensive and I greatly appreciated the addition of the books MacNeal consulted and has listed for us, for my TBR list.
We find Maggie in Paris waiting to start her assignment, as an undercover agent, from the British. We are in the midst of the Nazi occupation of France. Maggie has gone to France to find an operative, who hasn’t been heard from, and her half-sister, having bought her way out of a concentration camp, has gone missing. She, of course, is on assignment to gather as much intelligence as possible and report back to London. Her cover is that of an Irish socialite (Ireland was neutral during WWII) in Paris for her trousseau for her upcoming wedding and when “her” Louis Vuitton trunk arrives, at her safe house, she changes into her Chanel Couture (of course she does!) and goes to the Ritz, which, as we all know, is a Nazi stronghold. As she is registering at the Hotel she encounters none other than Gabrielle, Coco, Chanel who takes her under her wing. (It seems that the last few books I have read and reviewed have referenced either Christian Dior or Chanel.) Chanel takes Maggie, aka Paige Kelly, under her wing and actually to the ballet that evening where two of Maggie’s friends, Hugh, a former lover and his new amour, Sabine, are performing. After the performance, they go to Maxim’s and the plot thickens. During the evening Chanel discusses her feeling for the Nazis among other things, quite shocking (read Sleeping with The Enemy: Coco Chanel, Nazi Agent by Hal Vaughan and come to your own conclusions!) I am making it sound very glamorous, it is anything but. The story is brutal not only in the devastating occupation of France and the humiliation of the Parisians but in the actual brutality of the captors with their “guests” thankfully we are spared the worst of it, but still hard to read.
Will Maggie/Paige find who she is looking for, will we learn who the double agent is (he sides with the Germans because he “prefers Fascism to Communism” what a choice, who would want either!!!!) The heroes of the story are the women who see things are not what they seem in transcriptions and report them only to be ignored…seriously…and they are very strong women to be sure, some things don’t change do they!.
Two passages I wanted to comment on…the first is Chanel’s remarks on page 204 Maggie has attended the Nina Ricci Couture show and encounters Chanel as both are coming back to the Ritz. Chanel asks Maggie how she enjoyed the presentation to which Maggie responds: “I liked the red especially, but someone with my coloring (she is a redhead) really can’t wear that color.” Chanel: “Yes, I heard there was a lot of red—and sable. And the wedding dress?” Maggie: “Beautiful. But it might be a bit much for me. Perhaps an ivory silk suit might be better for these times.” Chanel: “Nonsense! We must embrace excess—especially these days! We’re dancing on the edge of a volcano, after all…..” Interesting ñ’est pas!
The second refers to using actors, decorators, and designer, all in the US Army, to build “fake” tanks and other equipment to fool the Nazis into thinking the Allies were where they weren’t…see pages 206-207. This is what Bill Blass did during the war. He told me about it and said it was a great pleasure to be able to divert the German army by creating “stage sets”. See his autobiography Bare Blass for further details on this operation.
This book gave me more information on the British spy system used during WWII than I knew or suspected and I must say I definitely didn’t expect the ending…obviously there is more to Maggie’s story to be told! Let’s see what MacNeal has in store in book 8, I for one will be eagerly awaiting it.

As you know I have had the incredible pleasure of working with many, many designers and lifestyle personalities over my many years at Saks Fifth Avenue, Chicago. Among my favorites was (and is!) Carolina Herrera. Not only an extremely talented designer but probably, even more importantly, one off the nicest people you can meet in or out of the world of fashion! I had the privilege of working with her on several occasions over the 36 years of her career (the House of Herrera celebrated their 35th Anniversary in 2016). The photos above were a part of my desinger wall in my office they are now housed in the Nena Ivon Collection in the Archives and Special Collections at Columbia College Chicago. Two weren’t glazed so you see a vintage look to them which I find charming. I have never seen a bad photo of Carolina. She would sign a new one each time she visited. She is a photographers dream and has been shot by the best including our own genius Victor Skrebneski, the remarkable Robert Mapplethorpe and Andy Warhol to name a few. Every artist has used her as their muse and one of my personal favorites is David Downton’s piece he did for her SCAD exhibition. I really want a portrait by him…follow his Instagram posts… I would show them to you but I would probably be sued for copyright violations so please go online and enjoy them for yourself.
Had to do this…the truly exquisite Carolina Herrera in front of the iconic Warhol piece.

Diana Vreeland and Carolina in the top photo and two pieces from her first collection…I was there and it was amazingly beautiful. Her evening gowns were and are the elegant way to look at any formal occasion and her day pieces are timeless as well.
Two Monographs, you know me and books especially on fashion….the top title published in 2016 to celebrate the 35th Anniversary of Carolina Herrera.
At her perfume launch
I know I have posted this photo before but why not again….four of our visiting designers at the Saks Fifth Avenue, Chicago Place opening party September 1990. Left to right, Adolfo, Carolina, Pauline Trigère and Bob Mackie. I’m on the left and Beverly Blettner, the event chair, is pictured on the right. I have another version of this photo (which I can’t locate, sorry) that has Adolfo and Carolina laughing…the photographer had asked if they were married, don’t know why the question was asked but it broke up all the designers!
At the Fashion Group International Chicago 




Carolina today in her signature white shirt, let’s look forward to many more years with this creator’s truly glorious garments!
Grab your candy corn this is going to be a long post and I hope a fun one, we all love Halloween don’t we!!!! It seems that everyone now decorates for this spooky holiday and spend over 9 million dollars on it, oh my, that is scary!!!! I wonder how much of that is spent on Pumpkin Spice items…..or maybe that would be another several million!!!









I had all of these…aren’t they super and now very collectible, see what RSM has…

We would often have these to go trick-or-treating….hard to find now but great fun to fill with goodies.
Absolutely love this, I want to go to this party…a great way to display all the collectibles you will find at Randolph Street Market.
When you are in the South Bend area please make a stop at Council Oak Antiques at 50981 S.R. 933 N. as you can see the vendors are ready not only for Halloween but for the rest of the Fall celebrations. They are open daily and I am mad for the Owner’s Instagram account patricia_mcmahon_smith, do check it out. Photo courtesy of Council Oak Antiques.



Just perfection…..
Working on Halloween Haunted House….

The above seven photos courtesy of Stephaine Lake,
After the festivities I am ready for my treats…and you!!!!!
On my way home…….
I am a sucker for a glamorous couple involved in a mystery, aren’t you….as another of my favorite authors, Deborah Crombie, says on this books cover “Amory Ames and her rakish husband, Milo, might just be the new Nick and Nora Charles.” One lives in hope.


Another favorite and one I reviewed in nenasnotes….Oscar de la Renta plays a starring role.
I enjoyed both of these about Mlle. Chanel.
Another take on Mademoiselle.






Both about stores…. James Patterson has also done a book called The Store which was published in August….haven’t read it as yet….comments if you have!
Both new on my TBR list reviews forthcoming.
One I can’t wait to read, to be published October 24th, the fictionalized story of the Sutherland sisters who became the incredible designer, Lucile, Lady Duff Gordon, and the infamous author, Elinor Glyn. I will, most certainly, do a review on it as soon as it is published!
I have been waiting for this book to come out for months, having enjoyed Fiona Davis’ first book The Dollhouse and anticipated a good read, I wasn’t disappointed! I usually don’t like plots that go from one time to another, this one begins in 1884 and then travels to 1985, this is done in different chapters. In this case, it works extremely well and brings the story to contemporary times.


I had the pleasure of working with Judith Leiber on several occasions, each visit was a total joy. In addition, she always invited me to visit her showroom/workrooms when I was in New York. They were like a museum truly something to behold. The pride level of the talented craftsmen quite frankly was something I have only seen duplicated in the Ateliers of Paris Haute Couture. I think everyone only thinks of her beaded bags, which are exquisite works of art, but she also did skin bags, leathers and suede as well as fabric bags for day in addition to her overwhelmingly prolific collection of minaudière. She would open a cabinet in her showroom that revealed a wondrous collection of very special pieces and always say, “choose whatever you like!” If only, it was totally against store policy (Saks Fifth Avenue) to accept gifts from designers or vendors. Unless the designer asked me to wear something from the collection we were featuring at a show (I was a sample size in those long ago days!!!), I bought what I wore at all times. I do own several Judith Leiber bags both day and evening and treasure each of them.
Judith Leiber in her workrooms in the early years. The following is an excerpt from the Museum of Arts and Design and the Leiber exhibition that is closing this weekend.
I love this photo of Mrs. Leiber surrounded by a few of her creations. On one of her visits she was invited to attend a dinner in her honor at the home of one of our very good clients who collected Leiber bags…did I just say the Leiber showroom was like a museum, well I stand corrected, this client’s home was Leiber everywhere in specially designed museum quality cases, it was something out a movie and by the way quite tasteful. Mrs. Leiber was overwhelmed. The client, I might add, supplemented her collection, after that dinner, with Mrs. Leiber’s guidance.
Another book to add to your fashion library, lucky me, mine is autographed by the wonderful creator herself!

Karl Lagerfeld with his ever present fan with his then friend Yves Saint Laurent (whose 81st birthday we would have celebrated this week)
Another photo of Karl Lagerfeld with his fan
So much a part of his aesthetic that his fragrance bottle is fan shaped.
Two looks from a John Galliano Dior Haute Couture collection. As you can see fans are every where in every culture and in every era.